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Installing Gyplyner Ceiling


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GL1 channels at 400mm c/c for 12.5mm plasterboard and 600mm c/c for 15mm plasterboard. Brackets (e.g. GL2) only need to be every 1200mm. Not clear how far first bracket can be from perimeter track (GL8), but diagram below suggests pretty far, so may be OK at 1200mm. Will probably limit myself to 600mm to first bracket.

 

British Gypsum components:

 

A Hough alternative brackets: AH185 (=GL2) AH186 (=GL9) AH175 (=GL12)

 

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Edited by MortarThePoint
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Plasterer is nervous about channel being flat enough, so plan mount GL1 on brackets (GL2) slightly high, and then use a laser to adjust each one down to level using packer between bracket and concrete (all approx 230 of them). that should get all to within 1 or 2mm of level.

 

Using TechFast masonry screws with Hex & Torx head (link) well priced at CPC. Note: fully threaded unlike photo. Also have some 32mm ones, which will limit to GL8 if used at all.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi there @MortarThePointinterested to hear how your ceiling metalwork installation went.

I'm a carpenter by trade myself but have done quiet a few suspended ceiling installs however (wrt metalwork) I have only ever used the MF ceiling system (top-hat supported by a main support channel if that makes sense to you). I wasn't aware that the gypliner system could be used for ceilings. How did it work out for you, I would have though it requires more fixings and therefore drilling into the concrete soffit which is the more unpleasant part of the job!     

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22 hours ago, Annker said:

Hi there @MortarThePointinterested to hear how your ceiling metalwork installation went.

I'm a carpenter by trade myself but have done quiet a few suspended ceiling installs however (wrt metalwork) I have only ever used the MF ceiling system (top-hat supported by a main support channel if that makes sense to you). I wasn't aware that the gypliner system could be used for ceilings. How did it work out for you, I would have though it requires more fixings and therefore drilling into the concrete soffit which is the more unpleasant part of the job!     

Hi Annker, I got pulled away onto other more urgent bits. I have got a small room reads (GL8 round the edge and brackets in place). The brackets can be at 1200mm centres so that is one fixing per 0.48m2 or 0.72m2 depending on whether you are at 400mm or 600mm c/c respectively. I forget what centres the top hat hangers go in at but isn't it similar?

 

I'll share some pictures and thoughts when I get back on it which will be in a couple of weeks hopefully.

Edited by MortarThePoint
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11 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

Hi Annker, I got pulled away onto other more urgent bits. I have got a small room reads (GL8 round the edge and brackets in place). The brackets can be at 1200mm centres so that is one fixing per 0.48m2 or 0.72m2 depending on whether you are at 400mm or 600mm c/c respectively. I forget what centres the top hat hangers go in at but isn't it similar?

 

I'll share some pictures and thoughts when I get back on it which will be in a couple of weeks hopefully.

For the sake of a few extra lengths of metal I'd recommend to go 400 c/c with regardless of using 12.5mm or 15mm pb. 

 

Hangers for the main support channel (used to support tophat sections) are at 1200 c/c and FYI the spec states that 1st hanger can be positioned at 1200 c/c (i.e. no hanger is required at the start adjacent to the wall) however I always used to put a hanger at the start despite a friend's advice (who was professional fixer) insisting it was not necessary!

 

Another useful tip for any MF work is when connecting two metal components together that a much more robust connection is made if screws are driven from the lighter gauge metal into the heavier gauge metal, if that makes sense. For example, with the MF system this means that screws are driven into the lighter gauge hangers to the heavier gauge main support channel and not visa verse.       

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