One room won’t heat up

[Onoff]

A few people on here have used this sort of cheap thermometer with a probe for testing/diagnosis (picked at random):

 

 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thlevel-Thermometer-Temperature-External-Refrigerator/dp/B07TY6HRL4/ref=asc_df_B07TY6HRL4/?

[Nickfromwales]

@Newbie1

OK. Instead of lifting the floor, I have an alternate solution which can at least be tried first.

The problem here is the much higher heat loss from this area, so there either needed to be twice the amount of pipe, or a much higher flow temp. I see this a lot where plumbing merchants just bang out a generic design for the plumber, with little or no regard for its intended application, thus it doesn't always perform as promised.

What you could do here is buy a single room - single loop UFH kit ( for garage conversions / conservatories etc ) LINK and remove the "cold" loop from the current manifold. Some UFH pipe connectors will be required, but do not worry about cutting / jointing this pipe, it will be fine. You can then choose 2 different flow temps, and bump up the flow temps to the "cold" area. I think this has a good chance of working, and e few £hundred is cheaper than a few thousand ( fingers crossed ). 

Don't worry about the thermostat atm, just fit that and make sure you run it with the other loops calling for heat, for the exercise of proving, and measure results. From there you ( we ) can decide a long term solution according to the results this quicker fix yields..    

 

[Newbie1]

Seem similar to all other loops

[Newbie1]

Thanks for suggestion, the problem seems to be that this loop isn’t giving out any heat even to surrounding areas. temperature of the loop itself with thermal camera is very low. Not sure what is causing this as hot water is going through the pipe. I think we may need to lift up floor to see if anything is covering the pipe and preventing heat transfer.

[Newbie1]

Hi all - posting in case anyone else has a similar problem in the future, or can help with mine.
 

We got an independent assessment. All electrical and plumbing fine. Design fine - it is an Hetta wet overlay system, pipes are fitted into overlay boards. Problem seems to be the fitting of the engineered wood floor. Basically as you walk on the floor you can see that the floor is springy. It’s not in contact with the pipe work below, so poor heat transfer. Pipe work is just heating an air gap above. It’s worse In smaller

rooms. Wondering if a floor levelling compound would help? Any thoughts? I don’t want to lift the floor up, relay and have the same problem again.