Undercloak - any reason I shouldn't push to a 3" overhang?

[OscarWilliams]

Wondered if there was any reason I shouldn't push undercloak board to a 3" overhang? Manufacturer recomends 50mm...with a nail through the end of the batten its solid as anything - battens trimmed at 2.5" out from end rafters rafter and undercloak set to 3" currently. See pictures for reference.

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Oscar

 

...Also, on a side note will be approx 2-3 weeks before I take delivery of tiles, does the undercloak fair well in the rain - I know the underside has a whetherproof coating but the rougher topside I'm not so sure about.

Edited October 15, 2020 by OscarWilliams

[PeterW]

Assuming this is a 150mm board then it is probably dependent on the edge detail. Adding on a cement and tile edging will be quite heavy and it will need the battens well held down. What is the final wall finish as it looks like it will come out further to support the edge anyway ..?

[OscarWilliams]

38 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Assuming this is a 150mm board then it is probably dependent on the edge detail. Adding on a cement and tile edging will be quite heavy and it will need the battens well held down. What is the final wall finish as it looks like it will come out further to support the edge anyway ..?

Thanks Peter, I hadn’t really considered at all how much weight I’ll be adding mucking in the verge. Regarding the wall, it will be built from timber to frame a window and then boarded and ship lapped. 
 

Also just crossed my mind I’ll be using a 6x1 gravel board as a barge board (it’s an old barn) so that will take up an inch and reduce the overhang to 2” ... grateful I cut the battens for a 3” overhang and not any shorter  !!
 

Cheers, 

 

Oscar 

[PeterW]

Sounds like that will work fine and your overhang will work. 

[tonyshouse]

I hate undercloaks, cloaked tiles, cloakers, corner tiles dry verges all work better, undercloaks mortar fails and tracks water in, they need to tilt outwards if used.