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Isokern Installation


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Does anyone know if the "stainless steel adaptor" has to be added before the support block is lowered onto the support plate? I placed an order for Monday delivery and we'll be working on it then. I asked if I had all the bits I need for the actual flue installation and they said yes, but may not have noticed I didn't order the stainless steel adaptor. I might be able to ask my wife to go and collect one on Monday first thing if I know I need it. Below are some screenshots of the Isokern website.

 

If the adaptor can be added after the full flue install then I can rest easy.

 

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I installed my adapter afterwards but was a bit of a pig to fit . Not sure which diag above you used, mine is like the top one, concrete bottom block has male protrusion and stainless adapter glued up to it. Problem is our stove did not allow the metal flue to go down into the stove to be pulled back up to the adapter so had to slide the stove in with pipe at an angle till it was vertical (bad description!!,,) if your metal stove pipe goes inside the adapter then you won’t have this problem.

Edited by joe90
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16 minutes ago, joe90 said:

I installed my adapter afterwards but was a bit of a pig to fit . Not sure which diag above you used, mine is like the top one, concrete bottom block has male protrusion and stainless adapter glued up to it. Problem is our stove did not allow the metal flue to go down into the stove to be pulled back up to the adapter so had to slide the stove in with pipe at an angle till it was vertical (bad description!!,,) if your metal stove pipe goes inside the adapter then you won’t have this problem.

 

Cheers @joe90 ! The two images in my original post are from the same installation video about 5 seconds apart.

 

So can the wider ring part of the adaptor fit through the hole in the support plate? If I understand the dimensions in the extracts below, the hole in the support plate is 255mm in diameter and the wider ring of the adaptor is o/d 235mm so should fit through. I guess it's going to be cozy up their between the lintels though as there is only a 300mm gap so not much room to see that a good job has been done.

 

What stops this adaptor falling off due to gravity before the lower flue is added? Is it a tight push fit?

 

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Copied from: https://directflues.co.uk/images/store/brochures/brochure-isokern-schiedel.pdf

Edited by MortarThePoint
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This is how mine was fitted,  excuse the CAD (crayon assisted drawing)!!!  The fireplace was built with two concrete lintels to support the flue base the flue pipes built with chimney up and through the roof. After this was built I cut the metal flue to length but because it was “male “ both ends had to install it “on the piss” and slide the stove in, but had to shorten the metal pipe a bit to allow it to work.

 

if it had been designed that the metal flue pipe fitted inside the adapter it would have been easier as it could have slid up the flue and been pulled down into the stove, but saying that the adapter would have to be glued well to the flue base to stop it falling down.

 

re thinking this, if the metal flue can fit into the flue base I would have not fitted the adapter, just slid the metal flue into the base and sealed with rope. Hindsight eh! (but can’t remember if the pipe would go into the base ).

 

 

image.jpg

Edited by joe90
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30 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

Did you not have the metal support plate to go between the concrete base block and the lintels?


No

 

30 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

I've seen adjustable length vitreous pipes which I guess would help with fitting.


Oh yes, extendable?. Mine was fixed length colour coded to the stove.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ve installed a isokern flue on my self build. I cast a slab with a hole in with correct diameter, then my surport plate sits on top the slab in the hole.

I think the stainless ataptor sits between the surport plate and the concrete liner surport block so you only see it from below.

 

Hope i did it right, too late now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by farm boy
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  • 1 year later...
On 26/09/2020 at 10:35, joe90 said:

This is how mine was fitted,  excuse the CAD (crayon assisted drawing)!!!  The fireplace was built with two concrete lintels to support the flue base the flue pipes built with chimney up and through the roof. After this was built I cut the metal flue to length but because it was “male “ both ends had to install it “on the piss” and slide the stove in, but had to shorten the metal pipe a bit to allow it to work.

 

if it had been designed that the metal flue pipe fitted inside the adapter it would have been easier as it could have slid up the flue and been pulled down into the stove, but saying that the adapter would have to be glued well to the flue base to stop it falling down.

 

re thinking this, if the metal flue can fit into the flue base I would have not fitted the adapter, just slid the metal flue into the base and sealed with rope. Hindsight eh! (but can’t remember if the pipe would go into the base ).

 

image.jpg

 

Where did you allow for expansion?

 

You have glued the adapter to the pumice, did you need to pack it with any fire rope? What glue did you use or was it just 'fire cement'?

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Just spoke to someone at Scheidel and the spigot on the adapter is 100mm long anticipating the flue pipe being cut short to allow it to be slid up allowing stove to be slid under. That should make it easier. I confirmed that no sealing is then required at that junction, so it will be allowing expansion.

 

I didn't ask, but that would make it important to hold the adapter in place as could fall down otherwise opening a big gap. The technical guy said that no rope or cement is needed with the adapter as it already has a rope tape inside.

 

@joe90 your setup sounds more belt and braces and clearly works well. I think I'll follow the recipe of the phone call though as my stack up is:

  • Stove
  • 5-6VIT vitreous adapter to mate 6" pipe to 5" stove outlet
  • 6" vitreous which I need to cut to size
  • Isokern adapter 6" to 175mm
  • Isokern support block

I've bought some 3mm aluminium sheet cut to size (2 halves) to make a plate to go around the pipe. I still need to cut the pipe hole (semi circle in each half of the plate) which is unfortunately going to coincide with the pipe's door, but can't be helped.

Edited by MortarThePoint
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I suspect I have over done things a bit, but it should be OK. I pushed the Isokern adapter onto the pumice and it seemed firmly attached by the rope friction. I made sure it was level in both directions. I then added a support either side of the adapter that barely (if at all) touches it but would stop it dropping down. This support proved useful for two other purposes. I hung the cut to length vitreous pipe from the support as I slid the stove in and having then lowered the pipe into the stove, cemented it in place.

 

I've been concerned about the steel lintels getting hot, so I then wrapped the pipe with fire blanket (25mm) and put some additional A rated APR insulation in there to keep the heat away from the lintels. The supports helped constrain the bio soluble fire blanket. A makeshift 'register plate' made as two halves out of 3mm aluminium finished it off.

 

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