Hi all new to this site so hello from worcestershire. We moved the week b4 lock down so it's been a bit of a struggle really the house is liveable but needs a ton of work doing on it with not a huge budget ?. The kitchen floor is the main problem with blown plaster and mold behind the kitchen units which have now all been removed .so we only have a sink in there now. The previous owner (decreased estate) tried to have the problem solved at some point the walls were cement rendered the first 3 foot or so then plastered. The floor has had a plastic sheet membrane put down then concreated over, poorly done, as you will see from the pics you can see the moisture coming through.The air brick fitted to the out side has no vent on the inside !!! I have lowered the out side floor level by pulling up the blue pavers that were tight to the wall and I believe above the old slate dp course. Also at some point the bricks have been drilled and injected. So down to the main question for you guys is how far do I have to dig down once the existing concreat  has been removed what do I have to put down  and depth make the floor good b4 the new concrete floor is laid, how thick does the concreat have to be? and will it have to be the screeded  afterwards or can I get away with the concreat only if laid well and level?.Also was going to board it out with green plaster board what you you guys think.any advice greatly appreciated. Regards jase.

Edited September 1, 20206 yr by Jase

Can you do a floor plan with wall thicknesses on it. 
 

will you be adding any insulation 

Hi Tony, I had not even considered insulation really. The old bread oven or what ever it is is going to be removed along with the chimney  breast in the loft and rear bed room which share the same brick work for the chimney. This is just so the kitchen will be bigger and more practical really the walls are 9 inch thick give or take and the room is oblong when the fire place is removed,5.3 metres by 2.9 metres.with a small pantry attached which goes under the staircase ,regards jase

Edited September 1, 20206 yr by Jase

If there is a double slate dpc then that is the best there is, find it and ensure that it is not bridged.

 

cupboards prevent heat getting to walls and so they become colder and so attract condensation which then can’t re evaporate as the cupboards also prevent air circulation

 

i would advise insulation to external walls and floor 

 

floor could be concrete on polystyrene 100mm with A142 mesh and 4mm latex screed 

 

 

Can I ask the ABO (*) question?

 

Your roof and drainpipes and gutters are all sound and not contributing, aren't they? I'm sure they are, but one saying on BH is that the only stupid question is the one we did not ask.

 

F

 

* Absolutely Bloody Obvious.

 

Edited September 2, 20206 yr by Ferdinand

13 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

If there is a double slate dpc then that is the best there is, find it and ensure that it is not bridged.

 

cupboards prevent heat getting to walls and so they become colder and so attract condensation which then can’t re evaporate as the cupboards also prevent air circulation

 

i would advise insulation to external walls and floor 

 

floor could be concrete on polystyrene 100mm with A142 mesh and 4mm latex screed 

 

 

Hi Tony thanks for your input ?

9 hours ago, Ferdinand said:

Can I ask the ABO (*) question?

 

Your roof and drainpipes and gutters are all sound and not contributing, aren't they? I'm sure they are, but one saying on BH is that the only stupid question is the one we did not ask.

 

F

 

* Absolutely Bloody Obvious.

 

Hi Ferdinand roof sound and drains ! I think apart from the drains  do run àlong the length of the wall as seen in one of the pics from the down pipe.