Shadow gap and engineered timber floor??

[Sarah83]

Hi, 

I've been reading previous posts about the use of shadow gaps and timber flooring and am still having trouble seeing how this is achievable if you skim the walls and then lay the flooring afterwards.

 

Construction is block wall with dot and dab plasterboard with Qic Type-R shadow gap profile, to finish at floor level with no skirting board, and then hopefully engineered timber flooring.

 

Clearly laying the flooring and then the drylining and skim would be the easiest process, but this goes against flooring manufacturer's guidelines for laying and presumably the levels of humidity would be too high?

 

Does anyone have any experience of constructing this detail on site to enlighten us?

 

Thanks.

[nod]

It’s quite easily to do 

Exactly the same as with a skirting 

When I do a shadow gap I set the heigh with a laser and work down  Gap skirting FF 

Any floor levelling needs to be done prior to setting out 

Your dry liners just need to set a laser line allowing for you gap and FF Then plug and fix a tile baton 

Allowing 5 mil for the bead 

Once it’s all beaded and skinned you can put your floor in sure that you are working to a level perimeter That will tie in will all your doors

 

Ive been to jobs Costas and similar

where the floor has had to go in first and apart from the sheeting 
Your stuck with what is already down 

[markharro]

I have the same question as @sarah83 for you @nod. I understand the mechanics of fixing the wall board down to the correct height so that the floor then slides under and leaves the desired height of shadow gap. My query is how do you set the short board joins? The long lengths are fine as they are fully exposed other than the 10mm or so tucked under the shadow gap. But we will be using mixed lengths of 1.8 - 3m for a floor about 4m x 4m and so the boards need to be joined to get across the full 4m length? I think the standard way to do this is to use a pull bar and hammer but that means somehow getting the end of the bar under the far edge of the board which is under your plasterboard if you see what I mean? While this might be possible at one end what about the other length that you are butting on to? How does that stay in one place as you hammer the other piece? Would it not hammer in tight under your plasterboard on the other wall and mean you have no expansion gap at that side?

 

Maybe use 2 pull bar left and right and two people hammering at the same time?