Aerated Water? Solution? (a paste)

[Fallingditch]

This article reproduced from ebuild

#1 Leaway

Posted 04 September 2015 - 12:09 PM

Ok so got a borehole installed and fitted the UV filter and 5 micron filter but still got cloudy water from the site caravan taps.

Reading up it appears to be aerated water as once it settles it clears albeit not crystal clear.

water tests came in ok apart from pH 8.5, Hardness 50.

any ideas on best solution? 

 

#2tonyshouse

Posted 04 September 2015 - 12:19 PM

Probably happening at the tap.

Don't worry about it

Well in the caravan make sure that pipes can't let light in, not clear or white plastic. 

 

#3jsharris

Posted 04 September 2015 - 03:59 PM

This is very common and is largely a consequence of the relatively high pressure from the borehole pump and the fact that there will be air that then gets dissolved at pressure (your pump is probably sitting with a static pressure of a few bar, just from the immersed depth). We have the same, and it doesn't come from the taps as Tony says, it is in the raw water from our borehole.

The problem is that the air won't come out of solution until the pressure reduces and this only happens usually at the tap. In our case it also happens immediately after our pressure reducing valve (we have water coming in at 5 bar and being reduced down to about 2.5 bar). This then causes air pockets that then make the taps splutter. It took me ages to work our what the problem was, but fitting automatic air bleed valves at the highest point in the hot and cold system stopped our spluttering and turning the pressure down a bit on the pressure reducing valve reduced the cloudiness, but didn't get rid of it completely.

What pressure are you running at, and do you have a pressure reducing valve? If you haven't got a PRV, then fitting one, together with auto air vents at the highest point of the system will reduce the cloudiness a fair bit. Now our system is running at 2.5 bar with the air vents our water is maybe half as cloudy as it used to be, but it does still have a fair bit of aeration.

If you want to get rid of it completely (this applies to borehole system, not mains water, where aeration usually comes form the tap aerators, as Tony suggests) then you need to put in a settling tank and a second pump set to draw water from that to the house supply. Doing this allows all the dissolved air in the water from the borehole pump/aquifer to come out of solution in the settling tank, and the water pumped from this will then be relatively air-free. 

Edited by jsharris, 04 September 2015 - 04:00 PM.

 

#4tonyshouse

Posted 04 September 2015 - 04:03 PM

The bubbles might not be bubbles when they re under pressure and only format the tap when the pressure reduces, like sparking water has no bubbles in the bottle until you unscrew the cap.

Don't worry about it. 

 

#5jsharris

“tonyshouse, on 04 September 2015 - 04:03 PM, said:

The bubbles might not be bubbles when they re under pressure and only format the tap when the pressure reduces, like sparking water has no bubbles in the bottle until you unscrew the cap.

Don't worry about it.”

I agree about not worrying about it. but if it looks like our water did when we were running at high pressure then it comes out looking like milk!

Nothing wrong with the water, and it clears after a minute or two when left at atmospheric pressure, but it does look unsightly and could be off-putting to those not expecting it (say guests using the water for the first time). 

 

#6Leaway

Posted 04 September 2015 - 10:00 PM

Thanks guys yes very cloudy when filling a glass, eventually clears but off-putting seeing it and not fully crystal clear. I take it the problem can't be anything else?

At the moment got a borehole in a shed on site (2 Bar) and then piped through a micron filter, uv filter, and mdpe pie down to the caravan on site.

Due to start the timber frame in the next couple of months.

Will try the PRV and the settling tank ideas, thanks for the speedy responses. 

 

 

#7jsharris

Posted 05 September 2015 - 07:47 AM

If you're only at 2 bar, then there's no need for the PRV, as you don't really want supply water below about 2 bar, or else things like showers get a bit feeble.

You could try and see if you can get some of the air out before it reaches the taps by fitting a tee in the MDPE with a vertical section and an automatic air vent at the top. It may be that your pump is drawing in air somewhere and that's then getting dissolved in the water while it's sitting in the pressure vessel. A vertical pipe before that with an auto air vent will collect and release small air bubbles before they have a chance to reach the tank and get dissolved into the water. Air take a while to dissolve in water, just as it takes a while to come out of solution when the is pressure reduced (when you pour a glass of water, for example), so removing any air coming up the riser from the pump to the pressure vessel would remove that as a possibility.

The settling tank and pressure set pump is really a last resort if you cannot live with cloudy water. It takes a lot of space up and adds complexity, as you have a float switch in the settling tank that controls the borehole pump (which connects directly to the tank), then the pressure switch on the pressure vessel controls the second pressure set pump and that delivers water from the tank to the house supply treatment system (filtration and sterilisation).

The latter option of a settling tank can have other benefits, in that it allows the water of off gas stuff other than dissolved air (often borehole water has other dissolved gasses that come out of solution when the pressure is reduced). It can also help reduce things like the dissolved metal content of the water (ferrous iron and manganese being two fairly common metals found in UK aquifers). Your water analysis will help here, as your water is very alkaline, yet not that hard, which is a slightly unusual combination, as there is a fairly good correlation across the UK between high pH and high hardness (our water has a pH of 7.5, so slightly alkaline, but a hardness of 300, with a high TDS figure (mainly calcium carbonate I suspect). What's the ferrous iron and manganese level on your analysis? Is that hardness figure the mg calcium/litre or mg calcium carbonate/litre, or the sum of both (often called "total hardness")? Either way soft water that's strongly alkaline makes me suspect there may be other reasons for the dissolved gasses in the water, so if you could post all the water analysis figures I could take a look and suggest whether there may be another reason for the aeration. Carbon dioxide in solution is often a cause of what seems like aeration, but that only happens with slightly acid water (lower than a pH of 7) usually, as some of the dissolved carbon dioxide ends up forming carbonic acid which makes the water slightly acid. 

 

#8Leaway

Posted 05 September 2015 - 10:18 PM

The test results using a water safe test kit (discover testing.com) were as follows...
Bacteria - negative
Copper - 0
Iron - 0.0
Nitrate - 0
Nitrite - 0
Ph - 8.5
LR total hardness - 50
Chlorine - 0
Lead - Negative
Pesticide - neg 

 

#9jsharris

Posted 06 September 2015 - 11:04 AM

I'd be inclined to get a proper water analysis done. Your local authority are obliged by law to do one at a fixed price that is lower than the labs charge. Ours charge £120, as they insist on adding a charge for a man coming out to take the sample in order to reduce the loss they make from the government fixed lab test price. IIRC most labs charge around £150 or so for a full test. The test kits are often very, very insensitive, and the only one I'd rely on is the pH and total coliform indicators. The latter often gives false positives (as it tests for all coliforms, not just harmful ones) and also because it is extremely easy to accidentally contaminate the sample by touching the sample pot, or just leaving the lid off too long and allowing airborne coliforms to get in. By law you'll need a certified lab test if anyone other than you and your direct family are going to drink the water, too.

The puzzle with those test results is that the high pH indicates the presence of something that's making the water very alkaline, yet the hardness result shows very soft water, which is almost always acidic (pH well below 7 in soft water areas as a general rule). The high alkalinity does fit with the absence of metals, but the most common cause of strongly alkaline water is dissolved carbonates (usually calcium and magnesium), and these show in the total hardness test. With a pH of 8.5 I'd have expected a very high total hardness reading, as the two almost go together in most ground water.

Do you happen to know anything about the geology of the aquifer? Just a rough location would be enough if you don't want to give your location away, as I'm intrigued by the cause of the high pH and whether this may have a bearing on other dissolved gasses in the water that are causing the apparent aeration.

I can understand our aerated water, as we deliberately vigorously aerate it to oxidise out the ferrous iron, manganese and dissolved hydrogen sulphide, then have to accept that we get residual aeration on the low pressure side. You're not using an aeration treatment system though, which implies either air getting in to the pump line (which can and does happen without water leaks) and then being compressed when the pump runs and dissolving into the water, or water that contains naturally dissolved gas. The most common gasses that occur in natural ground water are hydrogen sulphide (which you don't have, as it smells of rotten eggs in even minute concentrations) or carbon dioxide, which is often found in some aquifers, but usually those with a much lower pH than yours.

I'm wondering if there is dissolved nitrogen in the ground water, hence the question about the hydrogeology of the aquifer (or the region where you are so I can check a few borehole records on the BGS web site to get a better idea of it). It's harmless if it is, but there may well be other ways of getting it to come out of solution before it reaches the taps. 

 

#10Leaway

Posted 06 September 2015 - 09:12 PM

Thanks, I'll enquire with the local authority (Ceredigion) on the water test which will hopefully clear up doubts.
Not aware of the geology of the aquifer but the area is Lledrod in Ceredigion 

 

#11jsharris

Posted 06 September 2015 - 10:00 PM

Thanks, that's useful. You're on mudstone, same as us, with underlying sandstone. There's nothing immediately obvious to suggest why the pH is so high.

There are a row of nine boreholes south of you, but all are shallow (sub-10m) and with limited hydrogeological data from the BGS as they were all drilled/dug many years ago. Some report "ore staining", which usually indicates ochre, which is ferric oxide, so I would be surprised to find zero iron in your water, especially given the shales that form the lower levels of the mudstone. They all seem to follow a fault line at a depth of around 10m, but they are all on clay and mudstone/shale, so I would expect water in the aquifer that isn't that dissimilar from ours. We have 40m of mudstone/gault, overlying a shallow greensand aquifer, which gives us water of around 7.3/7.4 pH, together with a much greater hardness than you (over 300, with a TDS of around 180), plus iron, manganese and hydrogen sulphide.

I think you really need to pay for a proper water analysis. Use your local authority, as they are obliged to provide this for private water supplies at a lower cost than the labs will charge. They need a proper clean undercover sampling tap, or a clean kitchen tap, and it is sensible to run the water for a few minutes before they take the sample.

They will give you a full and detailed analysis for all controlled water contaminants, with the exception that they rarely offer testing for dissolved gasses, like hydrogen sulphide, as they tend to come out of solution as soon as the water comes out of the tap.


I suspect that your pH measurement is in error, as it seems too alkaline for the prevailing geology, plus I suspect that you will have small quantities of iron and manganese in the water and perhaps sulphides. These could easily give you gasses in the water from the activities of harmless iron and sulphur reducing bacteria in the aquifer. Nothing to worry about, but these may well be a contributory factor to the outgassing you're seeing at the tap.

One other quick thing to check is whether the foot valve in the pump is sealing properly and whether the pump is cycling when you're not using water (watch the pressure gauge or listen to the pressure switch, to see if it switches on and off with all the taps closed). Also see if you have a check valve at the well head. If so, then you may well have a positive displacement pump (a screw pump) that can often drain back the riser pipe from the top check valve down to the pump if there is an air leak, and this then puts compressed air into the pressure vessel that then gets dissolved into the water.

I'm certain we can collectively come up with a cause and cure for your aeration, it just needs a bit of detection work (something I've had a LOT of experience of when it comes to boreholes and water treatment over the past year or so, as detailed at length in my blog on here!). 

 

 

#12Leaway

Posted 07 September 2015 - 09:42 PM

Jeremy, thanks for the in depth response, i have read your many blogs and read through the borehole one before posting, you certainly had challenges .

I'm off site at the moment as waiting for local builder tenders for the frame and a quotes for groundworks so no action on site at the moment.

Next time i'm on site i'll ensure i arrange a council water test on the water feed to the site caravan and advise an update.

Thanks for the suggestions and support 

 

#13jsharris

Posted 08 September 2015 - 12:20 PM

Happy to help, as I found it very difficult to get reliable advice on borehole water supply issues in the UK. There are one or two really good companies out there, who have the knowledge, but because borehole supplies are now relatively uncommon in the UK much of the expertise in dealing with water problems has disappeared, it seems.

I have a few contacts in the USA who gave me some really good advice, as the USA doesn't really have a public water supply system once you get outside major towns and cities, so millions of people there still have wells/boreholes for water. 

 

#14Leaway

Posted 08 December 2015 - 07:31 PM

Jeremy got verbal water results back they don't work quick up here on any council matters.(still waiting for the writing report).
Verbally the guy said
1) the iron test result was 401 when the test result should be <200
2) also the particles (turbidity) test was 14.2 when it should be <4

He's advised flushing out the system 3-4 times a day at 2 hour intervals to clear out the particles and said the bacteria in the system is not helped by the pump heat if its let on whilst off site.

Should be on site regularly from Jan as MBC arrive with he timber frame but i'll probably set a time to flush the water 4 times a day at 2 hrs runs going direct from borehole - pump to tap to bypass the uv and particle filter.

He also said he would return for another test

Any advice? 

 

#15temp

Posted 08 December 2015 - 07:39 PM

Are you allowed to have a vented settling tank on a drinking water supply? Even in houses with a cold water storage tank the kitchen tap is usually fed from the mains. 

 

#16jsharris

Posted 08 December 2015 - 08:18 PM

Your results aren’t that different from ours. Do you have a smell from the water, like rotten eggs? If so you may also have hydrogen sulphide, as it's fairly common adjunct with high iron.

There are several options for iron removal, and removing the iron may well reduce the turbidity, as I'm guessing here that you probably have a mix of clear iron (ferrous iron in solution) and ferric iron (cloudy particles iron oxide). There are lots of proprietary systems, but first a bit of chemistry 101 to understand how they work.

Getting rid of ferrous (clear) iron is best done by oxidation, which converts the clear dissolved ferrous iron to ferric iron precipitate. This sticks to anything but is fairly easily filtered out. You have high levels of iron, so a simple catalytic oxidation filter probably won't do the job, or will need regular regeneration with potassium permanganate . These filters work by using various oxidising catalysts, usually based on manganese dioxide.

My recommendation (free from some bloke on a forum, so worth what you paid for it) would be a two stage system. First aerate the incoming water to increase it's ORP (Oxygen Reducing Potential), There are several ways of doing this, using a venturi injector or by using a small pumped system that injects air into a tank and massively increases the dissolved oxygen content (oxygen absorbs preferentially into water over nitrogen from air). This first stage tank will typically be a 10 x 52 wound tank with an ar injection port and a vent to allow the tank to have an air pocket at the top 1/3rd. The combination of pressure and air increases the ORP and this causes a lot of the ferrous iron to precipitate out as ferric iron particle (rust). The water than passes to a backwashing sediment filter to remove the ferric iron particles.

The backwashing filter can useful have a second stage of iron removal, using Birm, Aquamandix, Filox or another manganese dioxide catalyst, mixed with filter sand, or better still filter AG **. This backwashing filter can have an air draw kit that adds an extra air pocket above the filter bed that works to increase the ORP further, helping the catalytic oxidation in the media.

The output of these filters will be fairly iron, and perhaps manganese and sulphate/sulphide, free, but may still be too turbid to be sterilised. The easy way around this is to fit a washable 10" long Big Blue 5 micron filter, ideally a washable one to save changes. The water will now be clear enough to go through the UV sterliser and into the house.

It goes without saying that you need the pump pressure vessels and switch ahead of the filters, and you need enough flow capacity to meet the filter backwash rate (which can be pretty high for the heavy iron removal catalysts).

It sounds complex, but it really just needs a bit of careful thought about what goes where and which system is best for you. I had to work out a LOT of stuff myself, as none of our local companies filled me with confidence. A really good and helpful supplier is GAPS Water, they take the time to give good advice, butt don't offer an install service, so you need to know what you need before calling them.

To answer the last question, yes you can have a vented tank,but it adds problems. You need a second pump, so you double the pump investment, replacement cost and running cost. You also need to clean out the settlement tank, and have space for it. It wont remove the iron and will only have a modet effect on increasing the ORP.

Lastly, I have meters for measuring stuff and have acquired a fair bit of hard won practical knowledge, so if you get stuck I may be able to come up and advise directly (free - I don't believe in making a profit from helping people and passing on knowledge). I'll try my best to give the best answers I can on details here on the forum if I can, but each installation tends to be fairly unique.


** The caution with Filter AG is that's very light, so backwash rates need to be controlled to avoid washing it out. 

 

#17SteamyTea

Posted 08 December 2015 - 08:30 PM

I was talking to someone today that is a partner in a borehole drilling company. I asked if they did water treatment as well, she said yes.
That is as far as I got. I may chase her up, or her business partner, as I find this subject fascinating.
I hated chemistry (still do, I am a Lord Kelvin man), but this sort of 'bucket chemistry' is interesting, and you get a usable product out the end of the pipe.

Any chance of a sketch with the main components in there rightful place? 

 

#18Leaway

Posted 08 December 2015 - 08:47 PM

Yes sulphur / eggy smell most of the time although to date infrequent visits to site and staying in the on site caravan over a weekend / week at most.
Will be full-time from Jan (cottage during colder months Jan - Feb).

Thanks for the hints on aerating sounds complicated? Current set up is borehole with pump to tank in a shed and then piping in the shed to particle filter and uv filter before sending water to on site caravan.
From the detail below i would need another wound tank between current tank and particle filter?
Then install a backwash filter between new wound tank and particle filter. Or replace the current particle filter with this one?

Any diagrams on layout on this one? 

 

#19jsharris

Posted 08 December 2015 - 09:48 PM

Best bet is to look at the USA, as they are far, far more experienced with systems. Bear in mind that none of this stuff is very complicated, it just looks that way.

First off, aeration to increase the ORP (feel free to ask questions on any of these bits). This example from the US http://www.purewater...eration-systems shows a first stage pumped aeration system. An alternative is to use an air injector in the water pump line (like this: http://www.wellwater...Micronizer.html to inject air into the pumped water, which still needs an air/water tank, but doesn't need an air pump to get air into the top of the vessel. A Micronizer would typically be used with a tank with an air volume control (very like the vent system on the aer-max) to retain an air pocket to dissolve oxygen into the water.


Next the aerated water and ferric iron particles pass from the base of the contact tank to the backwashable filter. My reccomendation would be to go for a suitably sized one of these: http://www.gapswater...l__Systems.html fitted with an air draw kit and probably Aquamandix and sand media, or maybe Filox. Don't over-size, as the backwash rate is much higher than the normal deliver rate.

These two stages will remove the iron, hydrogen sulphide and, as long as the pH isn't to high, manganese. Pretty much all the chemical/metal contaminants will now have come out, either by catalytic and direct oxidation and filtration, or by being vented through the vent on the first tank.

Next you need to make the raw water potable, by removing remaining turbidity, removing bacteria and cysts (and you'll have a lot of iron and perhaps sulphur reducing bacteria in the water). The easy way to do this is with a simple UV steriliser unit, like this: http://www.gapswater...olet_Range.html . These need the tube to be replaced one a year, as they lose output with time.

Before the UV unit you need a simple particulate filter to make sure the water going through the UV steriliser hasn't got any big (>5 micron) particles that could shadow a harmful bacteria. I'd recommend a 10" deep big blue housing with a pleated filter element like this: http://www.gapswater...RUM_Pleat_.html, or maybe a 20" long one if you have a high water demand. Pleated filters like this are good because they can be washed out easily and replaced.

Clearly there is a lot more to this, but the above is a pretty good starting point. If you wanted to save money, then you could remove the first aeration stage and use just the iron/sulphur dioxide backwash filter with the 5 micron pleated filter in a Big Blue housing, followed by the UV steriliser. If you still have sulphur/cucumber taste/smell, then another Big Blue housing with a good quality carbon block filter may help, but will need regular replacement. All the other stuff I've mentioned is pretty much self-maintaining, except periodic flushing and cleaning of the 5 micron filter.

I'd steer clear of wound filters, as they end up costing a lot to keep replacing them and they don't remove metals or any other contaminants other than sediment. The same goes for carbon filters, they only have a very limited ability to remove metals.

Happy to try and advise further. 

 

#20Leaway

Posted 09 December 2015 - 11:31 PM

thanks, I’ll take some time to review the websites and come back to you 

 

#21Leaway

Posted 21 February 2016 - 10:48 AM

Hi Jeremy read through some of the web sites whilst waiting for the extra slow local council to re-test the water which they have done in Dec and Feb. They're now saying the water is safe to drink as the turbot readings from the lab are now 3 NTU and the iron reading 85ug fe/l. I think the timer flush three times a day helped matters.
Water still a little cloudy but less grey and no smell of sulphur. With the new readings and general improvements would your advice above change? 
I assume the aeration is the focus now to take away the cloudiness? 

 

#22jsharris

Posted 21 February 2016 - 12:59 PM

If you've got potable water and the problem is just that it has a lot of dissolved gases, then you could reduce this a lot by fitting a Spirovent. I recently fitted one and found it made a useful improvement and seems to remove a lot of the excessive dissolved air in our water. 

 

#23Leaway

Posted 16 March 2016 - 10:46 PM

Hi Jeremy just to advise and thank you for your suggestions and support. I decided to wait a little more and went down the route of a fresh filter and spirovent as you suggested. I can report clear water looking good enough to drink.

Thanks once again 

 

#24jsharris

Posted 17 March 2016 - 07:49 AM

Glad the problem is sorted OK. I'm amazed at how effective the Spirovent is at reducing aeration in the water. We've tried so many different things that have promised a lot but failed to deliver that I wasn't expecting much from it.

It's good news that you need nothing other than a filter, as it makes the system a lot cheaper to both fit and run. 

 

#25Leaway

Posted 05 April 2016 - 10:39 AM

Hi Jeremy, water flowing well now and clean, non cloudy and drinkable from the cold tap in the static caravan.

Still seem to be getting a sulphur smell in the shower with hot water use. Would this be the static caravan boiler (Morco) and piping un doing the aeration? (piping mixes between 25 MDFE, 15 & 20mm piping).

Not an issue for the caravan as only a temporary option but want to ensure this doesn't re-occure for the eventual self build.

Any views from your experience? 

#26jsharris

Posted 05 April 2016 - 10:50 AM

The sulphur smell could be coming from one of two causes. As it's from the hot water, then the first thing to try and work out is if you have sulphur reducing bacteria growing in the hot water tank. It's rare in the UK, as we usually have copper tanks that tend to prevent this, but fairly common in galvanised steel, or stainless steel, hot water tanks or water heaters that have a magnesium anti-corrosion anode fitted. So it may well be just the water heater causing the problem. To check, try and inject some neat unscented household bleach into the water heater and let it stand for a few hours, then give it a good flush. If that fixes the problem for a time then you can be reasonably sure that sulphur bacteria in the heater are the cause, and they may well come back, as they are probably in the water (they aren't harmful, just smelly).

The other possibility is that the water supply has some dissolved hydrogen sulphide in it. This won't show on a lab test, as it will come out of solution very quickly, long before the sample gets to the lab. It can be detected by smell at very low concentrations in water freshly drawn from some boreholes (like ours), but aeration will quickly remove it, provided there is a vent for it to escape through after aeration.

I'd try and disinfect the water heater first, if you think it may be made of something other than  

#27Leaway

Posted 05 April 2016 - 12:20 PM

Hi Jeremy thanks for the quick response its a brand new boiler (only small Morco caravan boiler) so shouldn't be any bacteria.
I have fitted an aerator (spirovent) as per earlier suggestions which has helped with the cold water.

Any suggestions?

It the eventually proper plumbing and standard piping will eventually eradicate it i'll just live with the smell for the next 9 months but if i need to take action for the long term i thought it would be good to test and trial using the simple caravan plumbing first.

Attached Files missing

 

#28jsharris

Posted 05 April 2016 - 12:42 PM

That UV light should kill the bacteria (they will be in the borehole water originally) before they get to the water heater, unless the water heater was used before the UV disinfection unit was fitted?

It would be unusual for them to thrive in what is a small instant water heater, but it might be possible. These are some of the toughest bacteria on the planet, they live in volcanic hot springs or in the deep depth of the ocean around "smokers", so can be stubborn to eradicate.

From what you say, though, I suspect the smell may well be hydrogen sulphide dissolved in the borehole water. Usually H₂S comes out of solution very quickly when the water pressure is reduced, but it only takes a very small concentration to be detectable.

If the filter you have has just got a sediment cartridge, you could try using a block activated carbon cartridge instead, to both filter and adsorb any H₂S. A carbon filter won't fix a significant H₂S problem, but can sometimes work if the problem is only minor.

We have too much H₂S in our water for a carbon filter to have any real effect, so I use a catalyst-based backwashing, oxidising filtration unit. This works well, but is a significant investment and if you can fix the problem more readily with an activated carbon cartridge then that would be the first thing to try. Make sure it's a solid block cartridge, that will both filter to 10 microns and remove quite a lot of potential trace contaminants, rather than a granular activated carbon filter that will work, but needs a lot of flushing before use to flush out the very fine black carbon dust. This isn't usually a problem with the solid block filters. 

 

#29Leaway

Posted 06 April 2016 - 11:32 AM

Yes just got a sediment filter in at the moment so will try a carbon cartridge instead. Were do you get yours from? used the water filter men previously but my credit card got scammed after this purchase (not saying its them just questioning their system security). 

 

#30jsharris

Posted 06 April 2016 - 11:36 AM

I can't remember, but I gave all the spare unused carbon block cartridges away to daiking here, and you might be able to read the name from this photo from that thread:

http://www.ebuild.co...ug/#entry132223 

 

#31daiking

Posted 06 April 2016 - 12:25 PM

I can take a look later if it helps. 

 

#32Leaway

yes please thanks  

 

#33daiking

Posted 06 April 2016 - 10:38 PM

Sorry, no discernible brand.
(image removed)

 

#34Leaway

Posted 24 April 2016 - 06:09 PM

Jeremy second filter unit fitted with Carbon filter and success the missus is happy the shower in the caravan doesnt smell like a geyzer from iceland any more with sulphur.

Thanks for you help.

Daiking - couldn't identify the make but thanks for trying, searched a few images on google but no success so went for eh best deal on line. 

 

#35jsharris

Posted 24 April 2016 - 08:27 PM

Great, glad that's fixed it. For the house system you may want to consider something that's less hassle in terms of needing to change carbon filters every few months I've come up with a reasonably affordable system, using off-the-shelf parts, that will just remove the H₂S without needing to change carbon filters, It involved a bit of DIY, but our system is now working really, really well, and is pretty much hands-off, just a UV tube change once a year.

I'll post more details and where you can get the parts later, when you're looking to install the final water system to the new house. You'll need to find room for a 5ft high, 10" diameter contact tank and air vent, plus a venturi injector at the well head, but it will vent out all the H₂S and also precipitate out any ferrous (clear) iron you may have, and is pretty easy to put together. 

 

#36Leaway

Posted 24 April 2016 - 08:31 PM

Borehole is currently in a small shed in the corner of the plot. i was looking to upgrade the shed but keep the Borehole and filtering in there and out side of the house.
MBC arrive tomorrow so timing for eventual water system for the house i expect autumn this year.
Less hassle definitely sounds good, would appreciate any help. 

 

#37jsharris

Posted 24 April 2016 - 08:53 PM

I'll draw up the details and how to put it together in the next couple of months. It's apparently a common problem, as the lady from the council who came to sample out water for the final "official" water test the week before last asked lots of questions and said that she'd recommended aeration systems but that they'd not worked. I explained that to work you must have a contact tank, with a regulated air vent, to give the reaction time needed, something that it seems Environmental Health weren't aware of (yet it's common knowledge in the US). She's since put me on to two other "problem wells" and we're in the process of fixing them the same way we fixed ours. 

 

#38Nickfromwales

Posted 24 April 2016 - 09:47 PM

Are there 36 hours in your days Jeremy?
Your a very generous chap 
  

#39jsharris

Posted 25 April 2016 - 08:51 AM

Thanks for the compliment, Nick, but you yourself give a lot of time here helping others, probably more than I do. I know the frustration of trying to fix well and borehole water problems, and understand the lack of expertise (and unavailability of kit) here in the UK. All the answers to treating well and borehole problems are available in the USA, where a large proportion of homes away from city centres are on well water. All of the knowledge I've gained has come from making mistakes and having to spend tens of hours seeking answers, so it seems daft not to just pass that on and save others having to go though the long process I went through to fix things. It's also therapeutic to look at something unrelated to finishing our house from time to time, a sort of diversionary therapy (although we are very nearly finished now - should get completion in the next few weeks, all being well.).

 

 

[Leaway]

eventually resolved the sulpur smell by reducing the water pressure from the borehole. After speaking to the company Jeremy suggested they advised they could organise an aeration system but lots of costs involved. they suggested ensuring the carbon filter was set up as the second filter in the flow and turn the flow down to allow the filters to work on the water.

 

They suggested if higher water pressure was required then fitting 20inch filters would be the next step before moving on to a more technical system (very honest of them).

 

currently on the smaller 10inch filters but have purchase a 20inch dual filter system to upgrade when was is transferred from the caravan to the new house.