tvrulesme

I'm looking to tile over an old concrete slab. It's not in bad condition but has a few cracks so I would like to lay an anti-crack membrane prior to tiling. Brand names aside I seem to have two choices. Waffle type https://nassboards.co.uk/products/orange-decoupling-membrane Or fleece type https://nassboards.co.uk/products/decoupling-anti-crack-membrane-waterproof-matting They are similar in price so wondering if one has an advantage over the other?

Will be short term let, probably AirBNB so worst case it will be out for a weekend. I go there weekly so not too worried about keeping batteries charged

Love Shelly, hate the H&T. It was a PITA before I gave up and returned. I'm trying to minimise gadgets and wires everywhere so if wall thermostat measures humidity saves having another device

Thank you. Very good point. I'll look into this Most issues have now been resolved but I want to continously monitor going forward given how much effort I've invested in sorting Not heard of these. I'll take a look. Issue is the need to control remotely so would ideally need smart. This place is 45 mins from my home and I often log in and wack on the heating while I'm driving there. Remote access is a must

I did consider this but we're thinking of possibly renting out this house and I've got to be honest, the wife struggles with my home automation, let alone guests

Looks lovely but pretty pricey. I can pick up Drayton TRVs on ebay usually for about £27. £90 a pop per rad is going to bankrupt me. Liking the Home Assistant integration though

I have a central heating system in our old bunglow which is due to be added to with an additional 3 UFH zones as part of an extention build. Currently the thermostat is a bit of a hack as when I moved the boiler to what is currently the garage, the thermostat struggled to connect via RF due to very thick walls in this old property. Looking to upgrade this and add some Smartness and control for UFH. I'm currently narrowing down options to: Tado - v3 system doesn't appear to have extenders which worries me. X looks very expensive. Customer support from reading on forums seems to be very slow and with rubbish answers Drayton Wiser - Limited support for UFH. People seem to moan a lot about connectivity Heatmiser - We have this at a previous home and after an argument with their returns department I swore I would never buy again but may have to bite humble pie Any other systems I should be looking at or any of the worries above I should not be worried about? House layout with existing rads and proposed UFH zones below. Zone 4 already exists and is working well My main requirements are: Must be able to communicate through thick stone walls Wall thermostats would ideally have integrated humidity sensor. I’ve been battling (and mostly winning) against a lot of damp so want to ensure I am still in control. Ideally would not require separate humidity sensors Should be controllable remotely. Needs the ability to have multi zone underfloor heating integration Will need multiple thermostats. I can go wired but would prefer the choice of battery or wired My boiler is a Viessmann Vitodens 100-w

That was an old telephone cable. I was trying to show the outside edge of the internal wall. Wall is directly next to the window \ The electricial cable for that lamp ran behind the fascia board. I've removed the lamp and this is the external wall with some of the old paint removed when I was trying to investigate if I had any gaping holes in the wall. Yellow string line is the internal floor level

Brilliant, thanks a lot. Makes perfect sense doing both sides or the moisture will just be pushed to the other side of the wall. I've got a decent 300mm Masonry blade for my reciprocating saw which should make short work of the cuts. I have tonnes of old slate and reclaimed brick thank you. One of my permanent eBay searches which I act on every time there's a bargain. Will keep this post updated on progress.

@joe90 please tell me to do one if I'm asking too much. You've been more than enough help already. I like the idea of the physical DPC given the conflicting views on the effectiveness of chemical. Just so I've understood, you physically cut through the brick behind the skirting to at least the depth of the brick course (~4 inches) approx 1 foot at a time to create a slot, slide in a layer of DPC and continued to the next 1 foot? Just a few questions: Did you pack the slot with anything? i.e. slate? Did you have to overlap each 1 foot section of DPC? Mine's not a load bearing wall but just want to minimise settlement cracks

Just found this after I removed wallpaper.

One thing I didn't mention is that a parquet floor is slightly buckled which would indicate damp in the floor. The dryness below is what threw me off course. Thanks @joe90 that makes sense

So you think it's coming from the floor, not the exterior? And then bypassing the botched damp proofing?

It's not occupied all the time, a few days a week. Ventilation is pretty decent. I did run a dehumidifier and it went away but has come back

It was hastily decorated. I'd be happy to hack stuff off to get to the bottom of it. It's a holiday home / mid life crisis renovation project.