Paul Alan

No it was a full plans submission, they even came out this week to "check" the insulation pre plaster. Neither the joiner nor BC ever once mentioned anything about a vapour control layer to us. Im picking up some foil tec double today which is a vapour control layer and is also insulative to equivelant of 65mm mineral wool, ive got some white vinegar to clean the roof too so hopefully we should be in a better position going forward, probably still not ideal but an improvement. Thank you for all your input and advice.

Ive just pulled back a cavity closer and its 50mm hes used, still 50 percent less. The thing that gets me is BC knew about it and yet no one mentioned it to us. The brickie simply told us that we'll need to add extra insulation in the roof, he never said why.

What you're saying makes perfect sense. Ive just read the building spec from the architect and it clearly states 100mm ful cavity insualtion, the brickie only used 25mm. I cant help feeling "unhappy" with him and myself for not checking, you jst assume its going to be done right. Especialy when you're paying LABC to oversee the works. The walls are brick and block with a little insulation board flapping around in between.

The joiner and the BCO didnt consult me over the decision. The joiner was only employed to do the roof, Ive done eveything else myself including fire doors and frames. I took the time to make sure all my partitions were square and level, all my door frames are mm perfect. At the time we employed him I was not confident to diy it, looking back now I wish I would have done it myself. When you pay a pro to do something for you its because you expect it done much better than you could do yourself, I can see thats not always the case as when putting the insulation and floorboards upstairs the joist are all over the place, the roof trusses are far from 600 centers. I was seriously considering doing the brickwork myself but in the end I thought a brickie would do a much better job, seeing how " wavy the walls are Im not so sure now.

I know.. the plans drawn up by the architect do specify a warm deck, but I can remember the BCO talking with the joiner and coming up with a cold deck construction. Yes, the xmas tree is there as last xmas there was only footings there and we didnt have room in the house for one. We was hoping to be done this xmas but not so. Were doing the lions share ourselves so its taking a while, that and money,,,

Hi. This is the rear extension of our traditional home, weve also gone 2 story to the side. There are vents on the front and to both sides in the soffits. It joins onto the kitchen, it used to be a conservatory which open plan into the kitchen, I put a temorary partition and door. The door into the house is open a lot and the kitchen has always been without an extractor fan so I can see now that we have been creating this problem ourselves., I do plan to put one in soon. Many thanks

The wall is 6 meters and the span is 3.2 meters. We live near the coast and normally get lots of wind, none for the last couple of weeks though. With all the cold lately weve had the windows and doors shut and any moist air from the kitchen has been travelling into the extension. Im going to buy some white viniger and clean away the mold then re-seal the roof. I might even buy some plastic sheet and seal the ceiling from inside, or would plenty of foil tape suffice? I'll call the spark tomorrow and enquire about alternative lighting solutions to get around the gaps for the spotlights Many thanks

I have also just seen that the joiner who did the roof has put in noggins betweeen the joist that are 175mm, I think this may be breaching the required 50mm air gap needed above the insulation in between the joist. The battens he has used are only 20mm leaving only 20mm for cross ventilation, does that seem ok? Should I take out the noggins and cut them down to 100mm? Many thanks

The wiring has already been installed, and the BC officer has specified 150mm insulation to meet the U value, this is because the bricky did not put enough insulation in the walls so we need to make up for it by adding more to the roof, the BCO has also specified that we add an extra 25mm insulated plasterboard to the roof too. We have since decided to put the 25mm insulated plasterboard to the walls as we want the extra warmth.

The board hanging down is where I have just pulled it out to look, its much worse on the left side of the room and no mold on the opposite side

No plaster board is due soon, we have been waiting for more funds since the roof went in so its been like this for months. I noticed it tonight as Im going around finishing off the insulation, and wanted to bridge above the gaps that I created for the lights with 50mm board. Ill go take more pics Many thanks

Hi I have just noticed that there is condensation accompanied by mold in the flat cold deck roof we had built in the begining of this summer. We have insulated the roof with board, its 75mm thick, the joists are 175mm thick leaving 100mm air gap. Above the joists is a furring and on top of that is a 20mm battern giving corss ventilation. Its been freezing cold here in NorthWales for the last week so I suppose we can expect some condensation but this seems excessive to me and the mold is very concerning. We have wiring for 6 spotlights in the roof which 6x3m in size, the sparks asked me to cut a 150mm wide gap in the insulation board for the spotlights to vent heat, the mold is mainly in the recesses for the spotlights. Not sure what to do about this? Im going to clean the mold off with soapy water for now, and fill the gaps for the spotlights above the 75mm insulation with 50mm insulation so to leave a good air gap in them parts. Is there something wrong with the design of the roof? Do we need to make alterations? Many thanks Paul Edited just now by Paul Alan

Thanks

Ha...I'm sure there'll be plenty

I reckon they'll spot it! They dont like me too much because I'm doing things myself as much as I can so I used to ask a lot of questions. Now they just ignore my emails. Just realised the sparks have done the same thing too. Thanks

Its two 15mm pipes running through 175mm joists. They are around 50mm from where the joist enters the wall, the joist spans 2.1 meter. Main issue is Building Control will be around before too long to do a pre plaster inspection, I would rather not have to re-route it all, if at all possible.

I have just finished the pipe work to the new part of the house and realised that some are otuside of the regulation requirements. Will there be a way to rectify this without having to do the whole lot again? If I do have to move the lot how will I amend the holes that will be left? Many thanks

Thanks Nick I am going to buy an AAV and use that to solve the current problem , then re-use it externaly to save me going so high with the soil pipe. I'm also going to the under floor plumbing and heating pipe work and put them in place for the new appliances, then I can put some floor boards in place and start laying out for new bathroom. If I had some spare cash would gladly deligate...maybe I should have listened to my teachers in school after all

Thanks mate! The Durgo valve is the perfect solution, If I buy the one that can also be used externaly it will save me from having to mount the soil pipe so high up the wall, so it's a double win. Do you think that the shower/sink might be slower to drain using the AAV?

Building control are not being helpful in the slightest, I emailed them for guidance on fitting a fire rated door myself and they ignored me,3 phone calls all ignored. They dont like having to deal with me instead of a builder, I have lots of questions and I think theyre too busy to answer. I fitted the door and will be very unhappy if they tell me its wrong as I asked for theyre guidance but was not responded to. They are due next for pre-plaster inspection. We need a garage door then were watertight, the guy took the £500 deposit and has dissapeared. I do need to move the soil pipe first though as its venting inside the upstairs, we have the windows open full time for now but its not ideal I know. I need to dissconnect the current toilet etc from the soil pipe before I can re-route it to the outside wall.

I can’t work out what to do next, the bricklayer we employed is coming to do the knock through but I’m not sure when that’s being done in relation to everything else. I want to put the plumbing roughly in place and then floorboards up stairs so I can start laying out for the bathroom with a view to getting some things in place. after that I’m not sure where to go with it all. the awkward part is having to remove the old bathroom in order to proceed with new one. I’ll have to disconnect the soil pipe and re route it before I can connect the new one and I imagine it will take me a while to do

72 Lon Glanfor - Outline Building Specification.pdf72 Lon Glanfor - Building Regulations Drawings.pdf