JKami84

Hi, I have seen brands like GTEC Siniat dbboard. Or British Gypsum Soundbloc. Wickes has Knauf Sound panels. I'm looking for a 12.5mm plasterboard to go over battoned wall with 25mm insulation in my garage. Please let me know which brand / product is best. the area will be plasterboarded this week anyway, I will just tell my builder to use a soundproof plasterboard than ordinary. I would pay what I need to get best I can. I appreciate it may not be the best soundproofing but Its all I have to work with. Are these also ok to use on ceiling? only worry there is if builder deems them too heavy?

Mostly noise out.. i.e. I want to use this space for parties and games room. I want to not allow it to disturb neighbours so much even though they only use their garage as a gym occasionally.

i see you point. I've just done a calculation, bear with me lol. 50mm Celotex with thermal conductivity of 0.022 means R value is 0.05 / 0.022 = 2.27 so whether you add onto that R value of soundproof plasterboard (0.05) to total 2.32 Or you had R value of standard plasterboard (0.066) to total 2.336 I guess now it hardly makes a difference right?

Hi both, Yes, the walls will be insulated, ceilings will be "stuffed" with what ever type of insulation they call it, and the walls will be celotex either 50mm or 25mm depending on whether they exterior walls or adjoins neighbours. But I am just choosing a plasterboard product here, and I wouldn't mind spending more on acoustic properties , but not at expense of thermal properties. Does this help answer my question whether acoustic plasterboard impacts thermal properties given that standard plasterboard seems to have better thermal properties.

Hi, In my garage conversion , I will be having plasterboard on ceilings and wall. I assume current quote from builder includes 'standard' 12.5mm plasterboard. I was considering 'upgrading' to sound proofed plasterboard. However, it seems the thermal values of soundproof plasterboard is worse (0.25 W/mK) than standard plasterboard (0.19 W/mK). but at 12.5mm is this a major difference? For the thermal values (W/mK) I understand lower is better... is that right? But also when weigh it up with the thickness, is this a considerable difference? I feel like I need to weigh up whether I want better sound properties or better thermal properties? The R value (worked out using thickness divided by thermal values above) then works out to 0.066 for cheaper standard plasterboard or 0.05 for acoustic one. Products I am looking at were just on travis perkins websites - https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/standard-plasterboard/british-gypsum-gyproc-wallboard-tapered-edge-2400mm-x-1200mm-x-12-5mm/p/760084?gclid=CjwKCAiAvaGRBhBlEiwAiY-yMPTWF6cOpsSYmiAi_DKmXVHNbeTUVUxqbttEX0S_hhvgRq3MGyGYMBoCSmMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/specialist-plasterboard/british-gypsum-gyproc-soundbloc-tapered-edge-2400mm-x-1200mm-x-12-5mm/p/865328

@nod

we have taken ceiling down in our garage and are insulating walls and ceiling to use this space as a utility. Our garage joins our neighbors garage and we share the same roof. We are separated by a 9inch wall (double skin they seem to call it). if you look in picture once the wall ends at the top, there is a void where the joists sit. I can basically reach over to my neighbours ceiling if I wanted. Although we will pack some insulation in ceiling and some of this will sit part way on the adjoining wall... Is there anything very very dense I can "stuff" on top of the wall for further sound proofing? E.g. cutting to shape the thickest celotex type insulation there is or something.

@saveasteading - Hi again.. oh, i didn't know, i thought laminate was laminate. Stuff like this - https://www.floorsdirectltd.co.uk/elite-nairobi-oak-12mm-v-groove-laminate-flooring-ac5.html

Hi, I am partitioning some of my garage for use as utility. The utility space will be insulated in the ceilings (between joists) and the walls the best I can manage and enclosed between two insulated stud walls. The ceiling is low for my liking. So I am going for an approach which is 'comfortable on the foot' , and do not want to use up more than 20mm total height on the floor. The floor is concrete, and is relatively clean and smooth as far as garage floors go. I first considered some 6mm insulating tile back boards... followed by some underlay, followed by laminate flooring. But I consider this overkill as the cost of those boards add like £500. I have been out shopping for laminate flooring and see they come in 12mm for the better quality. So I am on the hunt for the "BEST product' underlay on the market. I think that laid on the concrete + a 12mm laminate would be enough for what I require... (I didn't want to go over 20mm total). Money isn't a factor as I was about to have a third layor .... and what I require is comfortable on the foot...! I've seen things like - https://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/product/50/quickstep_thermolevel_underlay?adtype=pla&keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3rKQBhCNARIsACUEW_YmfGfEEZoU5D7_27rtTgatDOzsBAPhMytqscHZsBqUqQvDcAGsWzkaAvDiEALw_wcB or.. https://www.carpet-underlay-shop.co.uk/collections/wood-laminate-underlay/products/royale-7mm-professional-sonic-gold-underlay-for-wood-laminate-flooring-from-4-66-per-m2

Hi, I am partitioning some of my garage for utility space - and will be heavily insulating the ceilings and walls. With the floor, I am constrained by ceiling height so want to achieve the best I can within 10-15mm including the laminate flooring. I know that the best insulated flooring would need much thicker products, but I am happy with just "comfortable on the foot" for flooring given how much I've achieved with wall and ceiling insulation. I first considered 6mm tile backer boards (with good thermal stats) to go directly on the concrete, followed by standard underlay for laminate, then the laminate itself. That is 3 layers (inc. the laminate). But can I achieve good thermal properties and the flooring itself in just 2 layers? e.g. is there a product that covers what I want? I saw the below which is 5mm.... https://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/product/50/quickstep_thermolevel_underlay Any advice welcome.

@saveasteading Hi, Hope you had a nice Xmas. I'm interested to learn more about how I can ensure my plan meets building regs - whether I apply or not like @Temp has suggested. I am not making a habitable room - so does that mean I don't need the amount of insulation and 'floor raising' that others have mentioned? Is there different criteria for building regs depending on what is being done and the usage? Maybe an easier way for me to learn is to bullet point my plan below and get comments on whether acceptable or not and what I would need to do - 2 stud walls, with fire doors will seperate the garage into 3 parts the Front section will not be altered , has a roller shutter door & no car will fit as it won't be long enough. will use for usual garage junk. Middle section - The part that can be accessed from the inside of the house via an existing uPVC exterior door will be used as a utility space for a sink and washing machine. Rear section will be used as storage area Floor - Middle and rear sections I will lay down minimal boards on the floor (like the 10mm warm-up boards suggested) and then lay some vinyl down on top. Ceiling / Roof - I can knock into the ceiling and put insulation (as much as can fit - maybe 100mm) between the joists and then plaster it back up. Sides - The existing side walls will just be plasterboarded (again I can use any that meet a requirement). The stud walls can be made as required. Electrics - There are already enough electric points around, I may need one for my washing machine professionally put in. lighting already exists. Boiler and waste Pipe are in the rear section. I'd leave as is and maybe just board around the waste pipe. Heating - I remain flexible. Since boiler is already in the garage, would be so easy to put radiators on the sides where pipes do not need to go across the room. but if its a big no-no for building regs then I'd leave it. Rear door - currently a tatty wooden door leave the garage into garden - looking to put a uPVC door. maybe even french doors - but I know they will have an up and over step due to floor heights.

@Temp.. thank you. Raising the floor by that much will seriously compromise the ceiling height. Also... Building regs is something I've been interested about. I'd love a scenario where I could raise the roof and make this space free flowing from the inside of the house. But I have accepted it will remain "outside" and only be functional as a utility. I've put that out there before and I was told I didn't need building regs The rear room that will be created is a missed opportunity I know. By Meeting building regs it could be a good living space. However I am happy it's just a storage area and maybe in summer months a space where lads can have a drink away from family.

@gaz_moose - ah, I can see in my sketch I put the partition wall line in wrong place... it will be 'after' the box and next to toilet window. The box and manhole will be firmly in the enclosed space.

@gaz_moose between the window and the electric meter is about 12cm of space.. been told that's OK to fit a wall in. The windows are there because originally this 'front half' of the garage was a car port. I put a garage door on front like all neighbours had and structurally the car port is same as garage (same walls and roof). Good idea about checking insulation. But doubtful as this was an outside area.

Well, there will be two stud walls put up as in my plan - so from the front to back it will be metal door, then stud wall, then stud wall, and then garden door - which I'll probably replace with uPVC. The stud wall placements are where they don't interfere with the electric meter or manholes. I am hoping the enclosed stud wall area (3.5m x 2.7m) can be made as cosy as possible in minimal thickness.

@saveasteading - thank you for this suggestion. 10mm thick really caught my attention. So glue onto the floor and away you go? No need for a membrane. What if I need to use leveler?

@markc - We are link detached - the garage connects to neighbours garage So I think outer wall is more than 1 brick, looks about 20cm thick (but rendered on both sides). I know neighbours have insulated the rear part of their rear portion of garage already. I am where you are with "any insulation is better than nothing"... and as it will be a utility area (games room at most), I don't want the whole hog. So insulating underlay, yea? Do you just roll that over the concrete or leveler? How about 20mm celotex? Or 20mm Celotex, then roll of insulating underlay and then my flooring? (that is about 3.5cm, which I'd be happy with IF it makes a difference). What would be the correct order on top of the existing concrete?

Hi, all. Image shows my Garage floorplan proposal + some pictures. I seek advice on the idea I have ... but also how I go about insulating it without compromising ceiling height?? A door from Kitchen goes into this space. There is a step down (happy with). I now want to put up two partition stud walls to the left and right of the door that leaves the kitchen. This will create an enclosed utility space. There is already plumbing against the kitchen side we will use. There is already a window sky light in the flat roof above. The ceiling of entire garage is tidy, plastered and white and even has spotlights in the right areas that won't need moving. The walls are rendered and white, but will be plasterboarded. The area to rear of new utility (larger garage section) we will also 'make tidy' to be used as a store area - potentially putting french doors and covering the waste pipe in there. . The front will remain a 'garage' albeit there isn't the length to store a car. None will be a habitable room, but I would like to make them look as 'homely' as possible. My issue is ceiling height. Current ceiling height is 2.22m. The floor just looks 'concrete' with paint on it. I have been advised I should insulate floor, and ceiling. but How?? I guess with ceiling can knock into the ceiling and put insulation between joists? but what is the thinnest available to the ground? Is it just laid on the concrete and then I can put some vinyl down? Thinnest celotex I see is 2cm (20mm)? The boiler is already in this garage, so putting a radiator in against stud wall shouldn't be an issue.

@AliG - exactly. and all I want is planners to look at it. I don't want me (an IT guy who has expertise in Servers and Networks and not construction and building planning) to be the 'gatekeeper' of such a decision.

@AliG -thanks for your response. I am not sure other neighbours have objected. Well - I've just got a text from the architect saying "council should have been in touch..... .... can we sugest you say "No comments".? Thanks". OMG. The cheek man. But I get it - he is being pushy. I am not going to take it to heart. I did respond saying "why do you suggest I say "No Comments", I find it upsetting you are telling me what to say". However, as with other messages on this thread - I AM GOING TO BE HONEST WITH HIM and tell him I have to be honest with council about my concerns. Its right of me to do that. Also, yes they have used a neighbour scheme rather than what I consider a 'normal' planning permission. Any objection from neighbour and its not taken further. I am encouraging them to apply the more traditional way where I can share comments but it is still reviewed by a planning officer. The fact they do not want to go down that route, raises the alarm bells that they would not get this through under a normal planning permission. That then leads me to say to them "look, I have to be honest then... there is too much of a burden on me to make a decision that will have a lasting impact on more than just myself". Hopefully they understand.

@Temp - thanks. Yes, number 5 being a 5m wide extension (we want 4.8m), would be one thing we would point out. Also number 2 (opposite), which I consider more as part of my estate and street than the houses behind me (not sure if thats just me trying to be positive) actually sticks out 2.8m from how I have measured. Other things I am hoping to keep to keep this positive and in my favour is the lengh of 'side' garden that will remain and the fact its quite blocked on that highway side. I also would design the building in a way it helps against noise pollution to the rest of our house and our neighbours gardens - which is the reason we are all keen for heavy tree foliage on that side anyway. My concern going to pre-application was just getting a quick-fire blanket negative answer which would be detremental further on. However, I understand why the architect I spoke to said to do it - to save over £1000 of fees. Everyone - I appreciate the responses regarding pre-application... but any more on the building line concern itself? Regards

@Cresswelle - any update on how this went? I have a similar scenarion. I want double story on a corner plat but it will come out of the building line of houses behind me that face the adjacent road (their front is in line with my current side). However, my 'side' is 14m long and I want to extend 5m into it. So I was looking at your example of staying well within the boundary.

@tonyshouse - The architect I spoke to said that for number 5 they do not have a building line on that side to consider - but it would help they have a 5m wide double story on a 8m house (and I want the same). I am hoping the fact number 2 (opposite me) already sticks out about 2.5m more than me may save me.

@bassanclan i think its about £50 . But the cost saving would be with architect drawings if the 'opinion' provided back is damaging.

Hi, I think the picture will explain in better ways I can. I'd like a double story extension where my red line is. I am a corner plot but considerable distance to the adjacent road (about 13.5m). After which there is fence, row of tall trees, grass verge and then the road so i'd say nearly 18m until pavement on that side. The house opposite does stick out from my house by about 2.5m already. Number 5 (marked) already have a 5m double story side extension. The sun goes alone the bottom of my image (so extension would be NE facing). this impedes noone. I've checked all angles, and they are nowhere near intruding anyone. However, the houses behind me seem to be forming a building line, which is a concern? even though number 2 sticks out a bit from me. I'd like a 4.8m side extension similar to one already in my cul-de-sac (at number 5). The extension would hardly be visible from the adjacent road given the tall trees to the side and at the entrance of the cul-de-sac. Even with extension, there would remain 9m of side garden until the fence (so it would be using about 35% of the side garden). Called architect who said to ask council the question using pre-assessment. What do people think? I have genuine family health reason for doing this. Not sure that is all relevant though.