Ambaz79

Hi Conor, Ive got the same unit as the Lindab XHBQ 1000 However I got this direct from the factory as I do other business with China. Tried to get this locally but a unit of this size was just too costly. Seems like a beast of a unit with 250mm outlets. so I will run 250mm ducting to the manifolds that will downsize to the manifold requirement. Do you know the best place to buy Lindab products?

Hello I have already purchased our MVHR unit and need to order everything after this point. I need around 500M of 75mm Semi Rigid Ducting and 2 Manifolds ideally a 15 and a 20 outlet version. I cant seem to find a 20 so may have to split it in to 2 x 10s. I also need around 22 plenums. I have got quotes from BPC aswell as Blauberg but just wanted to know if there is anyone else I should be getting quotes from?

Yes Sorry he is aware the sound proof boards are of the bigger size.

Ok perfect let me look into the cost of these bars. I guess its standard Aluminium Bars they use for partition walls?

Oh wow this is something we have not accounted for however I dont see any problem with doing it. Only thing that would be negative is the drop in the ceiling height I guess. Ive just looked at the resilient bars and this could be another good option however would it not be good to just go for sound proof plasterboards?

We are at the stage in our build where we need plasterboarding and the builder is insisting to use the smaller 6*3 Plaster boards. Does anyone have any ideas for the best place to buy these? We need the following: 700 Sqm for walls and 1st floor ceilings. 150 Sqm of Sound proof plasterboards. 40 Sqm of Insulated Plasterboards ideally around 30mm of insulation or more. 12mm plasterboard throghout. Also is there any better/cheaper way to sound proof ground floor ceilings so the sound does now travel to 1st floor. We have standard 22mm joists between the ground floor and 1st floor. 1st Floor Floor boards are already glued down and screwed in. Thanks in advance!

Ive just checked the the TS version is Pitacs. 2.5mm is £76 Inc Vat and 1.5mm is £49.49 for 100M of each. I have spoken to my local electrical wholesaler and they are able to do 2.5mm at 80.40 inc VAt and 1.5mm at £54 Inc VAt so about £4 more per reel so I might just go for them as i would expect its better quality.

Yes my deal with the electrician is I would supply the materials. I have done commercial projects in the past where we leave it to them and just get a massive bill in the end. So just trying to manage this side a bit better. Its just the last time I looked at cable like this it was just £30-40 per 100m. Obviously the world has changed since then and prices have just skyrocketed so just trying to get the best deals we can. Ive been to the big wholesalers and they cant really come close to tool station or TLC.

Hello We are at the stage where the electricians are going to start wiring the house and I need to supply about 1000M of 2.5mm Twin and earth and then around 700M of 1.5mm Wire for Lighting. Cheapest I have found so far is TLC-Direct but just wanted to know if there is anywhere that I can get this cheaper but from a reputable seller? Thanks in advance!

This is the Specs for the Heat Pump

Yes we have around 12Kwh of Solar Panels so we will also be having this device.

I Already have a 320L Water tank as well as a 100L Buffer tank. Its less then what you suggest but maybe this could be something that I can upgrade. I've asked the manufacturer about this and should have the answer for it soon. This is the comment I was really looking for. I have been told by someone I called today that having a oversized HP should not really mean you use more power so I think your comment does confirm this in a way. Lets see how it goes for a year and if its too expensive to run and I would save money by downgrading it then ill sell it on Ebay I guess.

Hello We are in the process of extending our new house. Extended on front back and side so we only have 1 old external wall that will also be insulated from inside. We have built it to a high spec with 150mm Cavities with 100mm IKO Enertherm insulation and Triple Glazed windows from Europe that have an average U Value of 1.1. We also have MVHR being installed soon and the house will be very airtight. We will have UFH on ground and first floor. Now the question is we have already purchased our ASHP that 20Kwh however we have recently had a new calculation done (with the actual spec of the house) and it works out to be around 12Kwh. If we use the 20 Kwh heat pump still would this make the unit less efficient or would it be that the ASHP just works less hard and for this reason uses the same power that a 12Kwh HP would use anyway? I've tried to find this answer online but not much I can find on this. Any idea's?

Im very sure he was just going to drill holes into the Steel beam. The frame for the Sliding doors will sit under both beams so we will have to put timber under both beams and make sure we secure the frame to both of the beams. I think the option we will be going with is filling the 40mm gap with a 20-25mm timber in and out separately. Then fill the gap between the timber with foam and fix the frame to the top with screws. Leaving a 15-20mm gap that can then be filled with foam and silicon again. I have spoken to our Steel engineer and they have confirmed we can make holes into the Beam at about 30-50cm intervals but he is going to send me drawings for this later today so we know the size of the holes and the minimum distance between the holes. Thanks for all the help!

Yes I've got the screed floor level and added 10mm for my spc flooring. The spc is actually 5mm this including the underlay so allowing a 5mm lip on the frame at floor level.

Hello.. No you have understood the problem correctly. I think this could be an option and I did think of something similar but the builder dismissed it as not possible. As a novice to these things it's hard to challange the builder this is why I came in here to see any options that are out there. How would we fix the wood to the steel beams? Something like no more nails?

Hello In our ground floor we have 2 sliding doors that are 4.8M and 2M wide and 2.1M tall. What I want to do is inset the lower frame of the doors to finished floor level however I have ordered the doors to fit a 2.1M height. If we now inset the sliding doors then we would have a 40mm gap at the top of the frame to the lintel. there is a lintel on the 2M opening and a steel beam on the 4..8M opening so these can not really be moved now. Is there any other way to fill this gap without needing to touch the lintel. My window fitter has told me 40mm is too much to try and fill with foam and the other issue is we are rendering so if we fill it the render bead in the corner will not finish flush to the frame. Trying to make the house as airtight as possible so looking for a solution that can tick this box too. Does anyone have any ideas on how we can get around this? Thanks for your help in advance!

Thank you for the feedback. Once this floor is done I think I will map it all out there and see if we can get a 900*1400 shower tray. I agree with the more room the better if the bathroom can accommodate it. Thanks Again

Hi All I am doing an extension and we have 2 en-suits and one family bathroom upstairs. I am keen to understand how you would arrange these bathrooms? En-suits are not made yet so can be longer or shorter than the 3M that is on the plans. Brick wall is being built so at the window end the width is 1.7M however again the stud portion is not done so this can be made wider or less wider if we chose. Ideally in both En-Suits we would like a Shower Tray that's around 1200*800 and then Sink and WC. If possible we would like the shower to be only glazed in the front so have 3 walls around it. Also doors can be moved if needed. The main Family bathroom is a fixed size of 3.5M x 2.2M. In here we would like the WC, Shower 1200*800 Double Sink and Bath Tub. If I be honest I am struggling with the layout of these 3 bathrooms. Can anyone suggest any layouts apart from what I have done?

Hi Peter I don't really want insulated plasterboard inside. So really only looking for the best option for the Cavity.

Hi All I am doing a wrap around extension and the external walls on the current drawing have a 100mm Cavity for insulation however I am looking to achieve a U Value of around 0.15. What would be the best option to achieve this at the lowest cost? I have the option to increase the cavity to 150mm if needed as we have not yet started the build. Its going to be a Block construction using Thermalite and dense blocks. Renders and cladded on the outside. Currently looking at Xtratherms Cavitytherm CT-PIR 150mm insulation boards. but the cost is really working out to be very high. Attached a few plans. Thanks in advance. 02C_2061BR.pdf 03C_2061BR.pdf 04B_2061BR.pdf 05B_2061BR.pdf 06B_2061BR.pdf

Hello its an old victorian house that was covered to a care home and then extended and then extended again. The last extension is purpose built "kind of" with wc and sink only and is single storey. But at some point in the early 90s it was a home for sure. Has good parking 12+ and not in any conservation area or not protected in any way from what I know. Bus stop outside the main door. Looking to make 7 x 1 bed flats and 1 x 2 bed flat all with seperate living room/kitchenette. On the bit that I said is custom built we want to switch to 5 bed hmo unit. Shared kitchen and lounge. With its own entrance. I believe it is class 2 at the moment.

Hello I just had a question about a building we want to convert into Flats/HMO. Currently the building is a care home and has been for 30+ years. We have now closed the care home down and looking to develop it into a number of flats with potentially one wing being a separate HMO unit. Conversions would mostly be Putting doorways into walls with some partition walls with the addition of Ensuits (all plumbing is already there). Question is could this fall under PD Rights to change the use from care home to just residential flats?

Hello, we have looked at this option but due to the fact we have a mortgage they have said they would not allow us to Demolish. We are in a 3 year fix with them. We looked at this option in the early stages to.

Hello All Thank you for taking your time to look at this. I have attached as much as I think I can. I don't have any clue on how PD rights could be used and how. Maybe the info attached today could help advise on this. Before I submitted the 1st plans we had a chat with my neighbor (and emailed the original plans to him before submitting) who said he would like us to be as far as possible from his house and ideally in line with the original house so the extensions goes back but not to the west towards the boundary. As we wanted to extend towards the west we decided that I submit the plans and proceed as needed and he would comment on the application. I think this was a fair way to deal with it and I want to be clear we are not as war or anything. I guess he wants to protect what he can and I want to extend to what I have planned and create my dream home. He has made a comment on the first application to say the extension to the west would be too dominant and overbearing. Then on the second application he commented and referred to the 1st refusal notice where reason 2 of the refusal notice was the building would have a overbearing impact on the neighboring amenities. Current boundary between the 2 houses is a standard fence panels that is around 6ft high. One point to note is the road is on a slope so his property is built over a 30cm higher than ours so he has high ground compared to us. There is on one of the images attached the orientation of the plot so you can see the rear is south facing. Also something to note is my next door neighbor on the other side has just had planning accepted last year to demolish his house and build a brand new building there. I don't know if this has any impact on the other side. We are extending around 7M back at a height of around 5.2M. The extension overall would more than double the size of the existing house. Our house currently is by far the smallest house on the street. Again thanks for all your advice on this.