swisscheese

Hi All, Any ASHP owners in the Cambridge area can share any recomendations on ASHP servicing. Looking for a good local trader. Any advice welcome. Cheers

Andy, I don't have the data to back this but this is exactly what I see with the Samsung unit, essentially anything around 3 degrees or below.

Thanks Andy, Comprehensive. I'll double check against mine, but on first look, very similar.

That's the return temperature 16-18 ASHP, out temp currently around 38 degrees, I have switched over to the "heat Curve" , so I'm now mixing down to around 35 at the manifold, the return pipe is still currently around 16 The question is really about balancing.

16-18 Hi Andy, also on a Samsung and also with a strung out L shaped design. How do you get on with the Samsung? Any wild config tips!

It's been "working" for a while though I have never been super happy with the temp difference between flow and return. This prolonged cold weather has made the issue more noticeable as it becomes more obvious as set back temps take longer to get back and on closer inspection there are cold spots on the floor and the ASHP works harder than it needs to.

Hi All, My UFH return temp is currently way too low coming back to the downstairs manifold. It's from an ASHP, temp currently around 38degress, so I'm mixing down to around 30-32 degrees at the manifold for the UFH heating. The return is pipe is cold, I'm thinknig there will be cold spots on the floor also, not tested. I upped the flow rates to see if that helped, to push something round, but the return pipe at the manifold stayed cold, all it did was make the ASHP work stupidly hard. Any tips is troubleshooting return temps? Thanks

By way of update : The roofing co, were jolly decent and once their accountant agreed, they repaid the incorrectly charged VAT.

Yes - thanks, the roofing situation was over complicated with different materials and structures, so this got overlooked from this particular supplier.

I feared as much - this might be blood from a stone situation, any further recourse if they are not forthcoming?

@ProDave Thanks - Some not all of the roofing supply and fit.

Hello All, We have had our first effort at VAT claim returned from the HMRC and they have labelled a couple of invoices as refused Reason Code 1. This is essentially saying that VAT should not have been charged. Well it has it's on the invoice! We have paid it! Not unsubstantial either! I guess I will have to go back to the supplier to try and plead and get the VAT back from them, is this the only option left to me? Has anybody else been hammered under Reason Code 1, what's the best course of action. Help appreciated! SC

sorry - yep me being lazy - definitely wireless not wifi - thats what happens when you have a teeneage daughter it "wifi this wifi that"

explains the crux of the matter precisely. Exactly why I need the Current sensor in the garage. The question though remains to see if I get the wifi or go through walls and distance or go for a wired option.

Thanks @ProDave That will be out of my league I'm afraid - so looking for something off the peg that will work - I must say they all seem over priced, to me so appreciate your sentiments. My thoughts are the twisted pair as a Current Transformer guarantees connectivity, if it's supported by the product but I don't really know which way to jump - the iBoost seems a simple wifi enabled solution. If you were "buying" wired have you seen a simple schematic of the over distance installation, and best options?

OK good to know, but when I have tested device connectivity over this distance at home in the preferred locations, it has been at best flakey. What protocol is the iBoost using? I am no network specialist.

PV is on the roof and functioning. (this is may be a bit half baked at the minute and I can firm up on some detail when I get home and double check) So thinking out loud. I now want to get a PV diverter functioning to kick off the immersion. As I see it my problem is one of distance. My incoming Electric supply is into my garage where I have one consumer unit, as a consequence my Solar PV array inverter and generation meter are also located in the garage. From the Garage incoming supply I then run 2 80A cables into the house and into a second and third consumer units - This is really because the house is built in two distinct blocks/levels(shorter runs). The Consumer Unit with the immersion connected is about 30 meters away from the incoming Suppy and Solar PV equiptment etc. I do have some cat6 running from the garage into the house and I think I have a spare unterminated piece of Cat6 close to the immersion CU. - I will have to check. So I'm thinking what options do I have? Wifi: Solar iBoost type thing and hope the wifi signal "stretches" from the garage - through the solid garage door past external house doors and into the cupboard, I don't really want the unit external to cupboard - but might have to if it's the only way to get a signal. (can this be boosted?) Wired? - how does this work, can I use data cable for this? Anybody overcome any similar issues? Thanks

Thanks, Good point - I have, I swapped over the guages from one to the other. By touch - it just feels cooler.

Sorry - Yep, input - for example if the ASHP is knocking out a discharge temp of say 40degC, the manifold temperature gauge in the input pipe to the manifold will report 35degC The other Manifold "T'd" off will be around 40degC. Thanks

Looking for collective wisdom on why one of our manifolds will not heat to the same temp as another. It is usually around 5 deg C lower than the discharge temp. I have continually tried balancing the flow but I cannot seem to get it to get any closer to the discharge temp. Any check list or Any ideas greatfully received.

Thanks chaps, @ragg987 @ProDave @JSHarris I went for the simple fixed temp solution first off. A little tweak on some of the UFH flow rates also seems to have evened things out. So far Energy consumption has reduced. I'll play along for a bit. I might return to weather compensation once I get to grips with the Samsung unit and their explanation of the Water Law.

I'm currently set on a compensation curve - but the unit is defrosting more frequently than I would like, and then working hard to reach temp when the thermostat timers knock the temp down overnight, possibly too much. So it may have the wrong compensation curve, or be slightly undersized ASHP for the temperature, I did all the calcs as did others and the 9Kw unit should be enough. I think I'll try a KISS methodology and set a flow temp and limit the temperature differentials on timers on the thermostats and see how it goes.

Hi All, I'm sure this has been done before and in depth, but as a kind of straw poll what do people find the most efficient configuration of providing heat to the home. As we have just having our first coldish spell using the ASHP. I'm thinking about: Temperature Compensation vs A Set water discharge Temp. Thermostat timers vs No timers. Constant Thermostat temperature, or a couple of degree differentials. Anything else?

Have to agree, last time I did this, especially given the history, I dotted the I's and crossed the T's. From memory there was an LAPD online check list for bits and pieces to supply. This included a detailed sketched plan of the site, location of the trees in relation to other trees, buildings and roads etc To be fair to the most recent tree officer she said keep the wording and plans etc and just re-submit the next time you apply for works. Time will tell if it's that simple. where tpo's are concerned Good Luck is what you really need

@joe90- Don't want to jump this thread, but I'm having a similar issue with regards to Air in the system, some loops just will not heat and I'm struggling to release the air: "I concentrated on heating only at first and found a lot of air in the system so powered the pump directly and left it on full chat for an hour which released a lot of air." I'm not exactly clear what you mean by this, could you explain, it seems to have worked for you.