ashthekid

I’m looking at a GateMate band and hook hinge but not sure if the size required to match the ones that were taken off before aI purchased the used gates. They come in 18, 24, 30 and 36 inch but I don’t know what the one that came off was and how they measure it. Can anyone help?

I ended up going for RW5 Rockwool slabs which has an amazingly high density to them for maximum sound absorbtion i'm told. Certainly much better than the RWA45 which is so popular because it's their most cost effective model.

I'm definitely doubling up on plasterboard on the ceiling in a couple of the rooms to make doubly sure of no noise transfer. I'm using Knauf Soundshield Plus everywhere in 12.5mm and 15mm in some rooms where it is dot and dabbed.

I'm looking to now expose a new steel beam that has been put into my conversion project - it was originally planned to be covered in plasterboard. It's a sizeable beam located on the ceiling of the ground floor of a 2 story building so it's essentially supporting the 1st floor(I only mention this as a post I read earlier seemed to note it was important where the beam was located as to what type of plasterboard was required to meet Building Regs so I thought the same rule may apply to what type of paint is needed depending on location and what storey etc). Anyway I would like to know what kind of fireproof paint I will be required to use on an exposed steel beam like this? It's approx 9m in length and a wide flange I-beam with side steel posts. I've been pointed towards Thermoguard paints by my local Brewers. And a side question, does any covered up steel with plasterboard need to still be painted(in fireproof paint 30 or 60 min) even though it's being covered and am I correct in thinking using a plasterboard like Knauf Soundshield Plus would qualify as a good enough fire board because it's advertised as having superior excellent fire resistance almost to suggest it's better than standard plasterboard.

What other top quality brands are there that you suggest as an alternative?

That doesn't like a great experience with Abacus then?

I'm curious to know what people's thoughts are on building a bench or corner seat in my wet room area and if just building it out of 2x4 timber and then tanking it properly is ok to do or is it best to buy some of the foam/fully shaped seats that you can build into your wet room that can then be directly tiled. I think "Jackoboard" do them.

Have decided to go for a wet room system after struggling to find a suitable shower tray that is the correct size (unless I paid a fortune for a bespoke made one which I just can't justify). Ideally I'm after a size of 1800-2000 x 1100 with linear waste ideally. I can find wet room systems for a 1800x1000 size which is the closest size I can find by Abacas bathrooms online for approx £500. Is there a top brand that is universally known for being high quality? Any tips on making sure I get the wet room right?

I'm looking at spray painting my property and the newly skimmed walls myself. I'm getting a quote this week from a professional sprayer but very keen to may at least get the 1st layer undercoat myself to give me a good base and that will hopefully save me some time. What is considered the best and most efficient sprayer as I hear about clogging and cleaning being a nightmare. I don't mind the cleaning as I'm a bit OCD but the clogging would do my head in if it keeps happening because I've got an inadequate machine. What models do people recommend? and what kind of budget would I expect to pay for a good quality unit? I've seen small machines on Amazon but they look like I'll be constantly filling it up. I'm doing roughly 2000sqm.

Oh don't get me started on the weight of it! It's crazy! It better be worth the effort and expense.

I've got plasterboard Knauf Soundshield Plus 12.mm going everywhere as standard which should hopefully help? I don't really have the space to do resilient bars. At a push I could perhaps double the plasterboard layer maybe if you think that will make a big difference. I have a little 15mm Soundshield Plus coming too. And I could double up on the 50mm rockwool I already have to make it 100mm in the studs.

I've purchased 50mm Rockwool Flexi Slab as there was a good deal on a pallet of it but i have since discovered it's only 33 kg/m3 which sounds crap in compariosn to anything else. This is intended to go inside the 100mm studwalls to allow for an air gap as well. I'm considering getting the 100mm Flexi Slab for between the joists but after reading about how important the density is I'm considering RW5 or RW6 to really up the density to 100+ kg/m3. It seems RW6 is the best on the market with 140 kg/m3. Will it really make a noticeable difference to the soundproofing?

I'm curious to find out if there are any benefits in putting additional OSB structural boards on any internal stud walls? Although not required by structural engineer or building control I'm thinking of adding a 11mm layer on some walls to help in strengthening the timber structure whilst also perhaps helping a little in acoustic insulation between rooms etc. I have done it on all walls on the perimeter of the property to stop any racking, but thought as I had a few sheets left over it could be put to some decent use. Anyone agree or is it a complete waste of time?

What is the best brand/product for maximum acoustic performance for insulation between 2x4 400mm studs and joists? I'm looking at all sorts and it's starting to get a bit confusing as so many difference varieties: slab, rolls, densities, rigid on one side, loft, cavity, etc. I've seen on some threads that people say it doesn't really matter and you can stick loft insulation in-between the studs? I'm thinking 100mm everywhere. just cram it in all over the place. But some people have said you must have an air gap to improve performance. Is Rockwool RWA45 any good? It's £30 per roll of 2.88sqm. It's 600mm wide though when really for ease and speed of installation I should be going for 400mm slabs shouldn't I? There is another Rockwool one: Rockwool Sound Insulation Slab - 100 x 400mm x 1.2m This is a different model but what is the difference?

What's the best brand for optimum acoustic efficiency? Knauf, Rockwool, Isover?

There's a really good deal on Knauf 50mm rolls at the moment, would that be sufficient? Do think a big enough difference in soundproofing between 50-70mm to warrant the extra cost?

I'm close to plasterboarding my project out and in between all the timber studwalls which is 2x4 I'm wondering exactly what thickness Rockwool to put in. So 2x4 gives me approx 98mm depth, shall I go for 100mm Rockwool and cram it in or is it best to have some kind of air gap as well for soundproofing so perhaps just put 75mm or 50mm. I guess what I'm asking is does it make a big difference to the soundproofing? And what about in between floor joists? I have 25mm chipboard on top, with another 20mm underfloor heating board on top of that so 45mm 99% everywhere upstairs. What amount of Rockwool for the best soundproofing possible?

Have no room on the other side because of door openings etc on them.

I’ve arranged for a sand blaster who specialises in oak restoration to do the job at the end of the month. I’ll post an updated photo.

Sadly I don’t have a lot of space to do any decoupling. It’s a only a 3x4m room. and I can only really afford to put some kind of TecSound rubber panels onto the blockwork and then perhaps a very small batten, possibly 18mm with then 15mm soundbloc on top.

@nod Thank you So a gypsum sound coat could be applied directly to the blockwork and then perhaps an 12mm timber batten and 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard on top? I could even squeeze in a layer of Gypliner wall and ceiling isn't a viable option sadly. Has anyone used the SM20 rubber panels between the wall and plasterboard? Or GenieClips? Or Tecsound 50 (2mm layer)?

Also, I may have some OSB Structural 18mm left to perhaps use on internal stud walls. Would that help in any way?

I have a ground floor cinema room in my project that I made sure was made entirely out of blockwork walls on all 4 sides. There is sizeable timber joists on the ceiling which then has a bathroom and bedroom above. Above the joists is 18mm chipboard and then 20mm UFH boarding and eventually carpet or bathroom tiling. What I would like to know is what is the most cost effective way to provide as best soundproofing to this room as possible without breaking the bank and also avoiding resilient bars which I am not a fan of. I plan to dot and dab 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard to both sides of the blockwork or would I be better to dot and dab the outer side with 12.5mm and then perhaps batten inside blockwork with 12mm PSE timber batten and then 15mm acoustic plasterboard. As for the ceiling, I was perhaps thinking 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard, then 12mm PSE timber batten and then another later of 12.5mm plasterboard. I'm not having any spotlights on purpose(just wall lights). And of course 100mm acoustic Rockwool in-between the joists. Would this be a good setup? It is only a 4m x 3.3m room size.

@Iceverge thank you that's great info and makes a lot of sense. I'll scrap the PIR then and sell what I have left on Ebay or something. And focus on the cavity space and plasterboard type. I plan to use 12.5mm Soundbloc(or similar) on both sides of all studwalls which will hopefully make a big difference and then 75mm or 100mm of acoustic Rockwool(or similar) in-between the studs. Every stud is 2x4 timber so should I pack it out with the max I can get in there or perhaps do just 50mm to allow for an air gap so that the "transfer of energy" changes.

Silly question but what's better at sound insulation for internal studwalls between rooms: Rigid PIR boards or some sort of Rockwool? Only reason I ask is because I have a lot of 100mm PIR leftover on my project and rather than waste it I was considering using it up in my internal studwalls between rooms? Would this be a silly move?