ashthekid

So brush-in permeable type over a solid Mapei branded variety?

Out of curiosity, would you recommend putting some sort of membrane down on the base before laying the patio to stop any weeds and things growing through?

I'm having approx 60sqm of patio put down with the intention of having the limestone the same as the interior limestone but etched to give it a bit more grip. I'm having brickslot drainage to the threshold of the bifolds and another on the other side of the patio. I have Soakaway all ready piped in ready too. What kind of branded grout do you recommend for maintenance free as possible finish for 4-5mm? I don't think I would need a porous grout with the drainage in place but I've heard about the brush in or water in grout which is porous but heard some very mixed reviews.

That's what I was thinking.

I have some ugly blue MDPE 25mm pipe exposed outside up a wall for a couple of external taps. I'm keen to cover up the ugly blue pipe and other than painting it black, I was thinking of just getting some black silicone pipe off eBay, cut it and then clip it on. That would do the job wouldn't it? I couldn't find any specific that has been made to do the job. Similar to how the Snappit radiatior pipe covers.

Which is best to go for? MDF or Pine? Or another material? I’ll be painting it a colour rather than varnishing. I think I want to say MDF and possibly even HDF that Skirting World offer which is a slightly higher density and moisture resistant at just for added bonus.

They’ve discontinued that product apparently. And sadly I’ve been told by a couple of experienced decorators that you still needed to water it down weirdly. Any more thoughts on this powder I’m experiencing? Just spoke to another decorator who said it’s totally normal and to be expected which is good and that he always sands down the mud coat to get rid of any imperfections and then the top coat takes nicely.

Hi, I’m painting the first coat on a freshly plastered wall and have been using a cheap Wickes Matt emulsion white paint that I’m watering down roughly 50/50 so it absorbs nicely into the fresh plaster like I normally do but I’ve noticed after a very short time later, when I rub my hand over the surface, I get a hell of a lot of powder seeming like it comes off on my hand. I’d go as far as to say I reckon if I rubbed a wet cloth over it the paint would come completely off. I have not tested this theory though. Have I done something wrong? Is this normal for powder to come off? Is this going to affect the top coat layer staying or sticking on? ps. The plaster is completely dry in case anyone is curious.

Silly question but can I just use good old fashion masking tape to joining PIR insulation boards when laying them onto the concrete slab?

Can I check whether changes to the new building regs in June will apply to my project that I already started 18 months ago or do they only apply to projects started after June 2022 when they come into enforcement?

I plan to paint an external corner brick column that is roadside and very close to the road so gets a lot if splashing when cars drive past in wet weather. It’s a very old property and this is an existing brick column. The paint has peaked off over the years before we purchased the project. Am I best treating this brickwork with a water sealant to stop any dampness coming through to the property and also just protecting the brickwork in general before painting it the colour we want with a standard masonry paint? It will a masonry paint have some sort of protection already in it? When I look at Thompson or Bostik’s water sealant for exterior brickwork it states I cannot paint over the top which is annoying as I do need to paint it. What is the best thing to do?

I’ve got a new wetroom in my project that is currently 3 side if blockwork and then one side of structural stud work(which is the external wall with party wall brickwork behind the cavity we’ve created). Before I get the blockwork dot and dabbed with 12.5mm moisture plasterboards I wondered if it’s worth me putting a layer of some sort of tanking or dampness protection on the blockwork to give me that extra layer of damp protection going through to the rooms on the other side of the blockwork? I saw some tanking options in Wickes today and wasn’t sure if it was overkill or actually a really sensible idea. will the dot and dab still stuck to the blockwork once it’s been treated.

A builder came and looked today and said don't bother, just simply lay the insulation down on top without any sanding, the screed will get rid of any imperfections anyway. Said to just use very good gaffer tape to seal the insulation tightly together.

And they screwed into the concrete easily?

I have about 185mm to FFL. 100mm PIR, membrane, UFH pipework, liquid screed of approx 40-50mm, 5mm matting, 15mm adhesive, 15mm stone floor tile. I don’t know % raise area to be honest.

Plastic knock ins?

I meant these seed mats, not just your standard turf.

I'm having a little studwork created at one end of my wet room just up again what would in theory be the end of the wet room tray that is going in. It's just 2x4 treated timber. My question is do I need to treat it or paint it with anything to completely protect it from any moisture or dampness built before it is tiled? As in the same stuff you would tank a wetroom in? It will be moisture plasterboarded of course and then tiled straight onto after that.

Somebody has recommended I glue down, with cheap tile adhesive, the 100mm celotex insulation I intend to use before plastic vapour membrane layer, UFH and liquid screed. Has anyone ever done this before?

I'm restricted by door and bifold levels with regards to putting additional screed onto it. Somebody said sand in the the bad areas. there are only 2 areas where it dips a little and then about 5 what I would call lumpy areas that need sanding. It's about 200sqm so would be quite a bit costly to screed as well.

My previous contractor did a bad job at making sure the concrete slab was perfect laid everywhere so I'm considering getting some sort of sizeable sander mower looking machine to shave off the bad parts. A diamond sander is recommended I'm told. Is this normal or should I not really be worrying about this because the insulation celotex will likely iron out those imperfections? I guess I'm just paranoid about it affecting things down the line with final finished floor stone moving over time.

No marks on the other side. I think you’re right, 24 inch. I think going to go for GateMate Premium Black Adjustable Band & Hook 600mm

I keep hearing about these grass seed mats you lay out that include perfectly distributed grass seeds for an even grass growth and germination fertilisers etc built in to give you the perfect new lawn. Are they any good? I have about 30 sqm of new lawn to lay and just looking at the options where to buy already grown rolls, just seed it the old fashioned way myself or perhpas buy these mats and get it going evenly straight away. And do you lay any sort of membrane down first to protect against weeds etc?

This may seem like a silly question but is it advisable to lay a membrane down before starting a fresh new grass lawn? Just thinking of anything to protect against any weeds etc down the line? Or is any sort of membrane a bad idea?

What size would you think the previous owner used from the markings on the driveway gate? 16 inch?