ashthekid

Most compact, quiet & efficient for a residential property that doesn’t break the bank.

Sadly we are too late for that but we wouldn’t have been able to because of box gutters and neighbouring walls etc anyway. It’s an end of terrace.

Hi, I see there is a wide variety of MVHR units and brands but what are the top 3 rated brands for quality and reliability? And also a bottom 3 brands to avoid for nightmare issues and bad quality? I've never installed a system but want to know which ones to avoid but equally which ones are considered the Rolls Royce of MVHR. Thank you.

Hi, I am currently in the middle of an old conversion project whereby the new timber roof structure has been built over the bedroom and now we have the floor joists in the head heights are a lot tighter than we thought so I'm thinking about the vaulted ceiling and how it's insulated to see if there is a better and more efficient way to thermal and sound insulate it. We have two Velux windows going in because we do not have any side wall windows whatsoever. So the current layers are for a cold roof: Slate tiles, breathable felt membrane, 150mm rafters with 100mm PIR insulation between allowing for 50mm ventilation gap, then 50mm PIR across the underside of the rafters, 25mm battening, 15mm soundbloc. It cannot be changed to a warm roof as the box gutter on the sides has already been built. Is there a better way of layering it underneath the rafters for better sound and thermal insulation? In another room where we have much higher ceilings we have decided to add an additional layer of 50mm underneath the rafters so 100mm in total along with the 100mm in between the rafters. Sadly we just don't have the headlight in the bedroom for this though which is where we have the issue.

Hi, I am currently in the middle of an old conversion project whereby the new timber roof structure has been built over the bedroom and now we have the floor joists in the headlights are a lot tighter than we thought so I'm thinking about the vaulted ceiling and how it's insulated to see if there is a better and more efficient way to thermal and sound insulate it. We have two Velux windows going in because we do not have any side wall windows whatsoever. so the current layers are for a cold roof: Slate tiles, breathable felt membrane, 150mm rafters with 100mm PIR insulation between allowing for 50mm ventilation gap, then 50mm PIR across the underside of the rafters, 25mm battening, 15mm soundbloc. Is there a better way of layering it underneath the rafters for better thermal and sound insulation? Maybe thinner? In another room where we have much higher ceilings we have decided to add an additional layer of 50mm underneath the rafters so 100mm in total. Sadly we just don't have the headlight in the bedroom for this.

I would consider that for sure. Thank you.

I’m not that handy myself. The electrician on site said he would do it maybe if I didn’t find a suitable company to do it.

Ok thank you, that’s good info. We have some spare steels on site that can be used for this area.

Can anyone tell me if it’s advisable to have the new timber frame with timber joists reinforced if you are planning to position a cast iron bath weighing 175kg(without water) on top of it or are standard joists designed to just take that kind of weight anyway? I just want to be sure while it’s still possible to do something about it.

Hi, Would anyone recommend any MVHR companies to get a quote from to design, supply and fit a MVHR system? Project is based in Hampshire.

Ok so scrap the SuperFoil. Sounds like a bad idea. So Rockwool RWA45 or Rockwool Thermal Cavity Batt or Knauf Dritherm 37 Or another alternative? Is that about the best option for maximum thermal and acoustic insulation?

Has anyone used or recommend SuperFoil SF60 Multi Foil Insulation? Technical Info Polypropylene reinforced heavy outer laminated foil : 2 layers Aluminium coated reflected foil PET layers : 20 layers Thermo foam separation layers : 24 layers Loft quilt 80g/sqm layers : 9 layers Total layers : 55 layers Specification Hot box conventional 'R' value : 4.643 Thickness installed : 100mm Total area pre roll : 12sqm

Does that have a good U-Value compared to other options?

Any problems with it or regrets on the installation of it?

In my conversion project we have had to create a sizeable cavity in the walls between the 9inch thick brickwork and studwork on one side and a very thick chalk cob wall and studwork on the other side. The cavity is approx 300mm. The spec'd plan is to have 100mm rigid insulation between the vertical studwork and then 50mm rigid insulation over the inside, 25m battens and then 15mm soundbloc plasterboard. I'd like to find out what the best fibre insulation I could put inside the cavity space up against the studwork for additional heat insulation. The contractor has suggested a 100mm fibre layer. Any thoughts or recommendations on what could be used that won't break the bank but improve the U-Values.

The two side masonry columns are made up of the front layer bricks and flint and then a layer of concrete blocks so could potentially be used to take the support of the beam and then fixed to the steel post. I believe the plan is for the beam's load to be shared by the brick column as well as the steel posts. There wasn't going to be this beam at all, it's a last minute addition for stability at my request. The cold bridging is being stopped by insulating the beam and then face plates by the aluminium framing.

Yes, to span an opening. The plan is to have it sat on a brick and flint wall either side but the support to be from the bracket to the steel post. The only reason we've added it is to support the wall of glazing with bifolds below and fixed glazed windows above. It's also to support the weight of that fixed glazing above but also stop any wind deflection. It's just how we fix it to the steel posts either side to secure it properly?

Looking at getting a horizontal steel beam fixed to the front of a steel frame so not directly connected in line but one that sits of the front. You'll see what I mean in the image below. I'd like to know what kind of fixing or bracket you think is best for fixing this securely and safely?

Yes it’s going under the rafters. The contractor gave me the impression that resilient bars don’t really make that much difference compared to battens.

The battens are primarily to allow the soundbloc layer to really do it's job. But I am worried I haven't enough thermal protection on such a high large open space. It's approx 10m x 8m with very high vaulted ceiling's..

Hi, I'm looking at the layers of my planned pitched roof in a very large room: 1) Rafters with 100mm insulated between 2) 50mm rigid insulation 3) 25mm battens 4) 15mm soundbloc For extra thermal protection and to get the U Value down I'm considering adding a layer of insulated plasterboard(like Celotex PL4000) before the soundbloc? Can this be done? Has anyone else experienced a design like this?

Thank you, that is a useful link. Is there anyone I can speak to get a suggested upgrade on the layers from the current spec that is going in? I spoke to the contractor today who said if I upgrade the 50mm any more it's starting to get difficult to fix the larger 75mm rigid layer to the rafters and then 25mm battens before the final 15mm soundbloc plasterboard. he said he didn't think the extra 25mm would make a substantial difference to the U Value. What if I added the extra 25mm and then doubled the plasterboard later with a layer of thermal plasterboard as well as the soundbloc?

Do smaller MVHR systems exist for say just 2 or 3 rooms that are all in back to back proximity?

Any help or thoughts on this?

Res bars not a bad shout. I didn't;t think of that. sounds quite cost effective as well. and maybe better at sound insulation.