goatcarrot

I don’t understand this comment, what’s wrong with TF compared to brick and block, do you consider it inferior?

@tonyshouse is yours a timber frame?

@SimonD thanks, yes I agree within the living space itself but how do you control the RH within the cavity if it’s raining and windy for days on end? Is ventilation enough? maybe a weatherproof outer layer like zinc siding is one answer.

I suppose the question is, if some mould is unavoidable in the fabric/cavity, no matter the construction, will MVHR filters prevent any spores entering the living space?

@ToughButterCup Interpreting scientific papers ain’t my strong suit but the report appears to confirm that the risk is small however, still a risk. I wonder how this compares to a block and insulated cavity type build or ICF. the nourishment that mould needs is dead organic matter so wood/cellulose is the perfect food, perhaps concrete/stone/block/foam it is even less likely. comments welcomed/appreciated

@ToughButterCup thank you, I’ll have a delve. Yes, creating a sealed box that relies on mechanics and technology to keep air fresh and humidity low is all very well unless something goes wrong in which case you could be pumping bad air around. I’m sure this is still unlikely but it’s intriguing that there’s not much real world data.

@Temp yes no doubt here either as long as filters are up to the job and changed regularly. +1 for no carpet. Soft thick rugs on engineered wood works for me

Awesome thanks

Thanks for the replies and readiness to share experiences. It’s just a bit daunting knowing I’ve got a good chance to reverse the habit of a lifetime and provide healthy housing for me and my family. my main worry was the possibility of mould forming in the fabric/cavity but I’m glad to hear that’s considered unlikely/impossible if done right.

@SimonD thanks I’ll have a look at woodfibre open systems. Spider crane could be an option to lift the ridge beam in.

I’ve been speaking to a well known firm and they supply kits to be built on site using this method with cellulose blown in after construction, maybe I’ve got the terminology wrong and it isn’t called sips

I’m not fussed about PH certification, just the performance. Obviously resale value is a consideration though

I’m just trying to find the right method considering all the constraints no mould growth anywhere doing as much as I can myself budget non toxic materials

I think I’ll have to make my own as access to the site would be tough for a big crane. Telehandler would get in though. also open to other methods of construction (ICF?)

Yes from a kit

I’m extremely hypersensitive to mould spores having spent my life living in damp old buildings. I have the opportunity to build a near PH house and I want to do as much of the labour as poss (I’m a spark, pv installer, I can plumb, do joinery, plastering and general building) to keep costs down. I’m considering timber frame sips constructed on site as crane access is difficult. can get a builders merchant wagon or concrete truck in though. I do have concerns about injected cellulose and the worry that if any moisture breaches the panel I could have unseen mould growth which might somehow be picked up by the MVHR. I’m also trying to avoid potentially toxic building products as I’m more sensitive to my environment than most people but realise that I need a balance between synthetic and natural to find the right performance. what other construction methods would suit me? planners might insist on local stone facade to fit in so traditional cavity wall could work but I’ve never laid block so would have to employ someone. Am I worrying too much? I know the PH airtight layer and MVHR mean moisture in the living space is controlled but what about moisture from the outside? We are up north near the lakes so it can get pretty wet and the location is semi exposed. any views welcomed.

Thanks for the link, some great ideas there

Property already owned. as mentioned I’ve already had an SE draw up plans to salvage it with a view to convert down the line but that was before I realised it had potential for a PH retrofit/conversion. say the barn was already structurally sound, how would you go about converting such a building?

No doubt it would need a lot of work. it’s tall so could accommodate 3 floors (I know fire regs more stringent) so wall thickness not really an issue. possible class Q but if not I don’t think planning would be too hard to get. thanks for your interest

I’ve had a structural design done but that was before I thought about Passivhaus

It’s double skin random stone and lime about 18” thick. The gables are not too bad but the one side wall is bellied quite bad so would need tie-ing in somehow. Other side is two stone columns with open gaps in between hence dutch barn. needs strip footings then diaphragm walls building between the columns and other side wall to stiffen it up and build upper floors off.

Tall and wide stone Dutch barn 12 x 7 m external foot print. Structure not great as never had flooring tied in. Thinking about putting an insulated foundation to build internal block walls off and maybe around the internal perimeter to form a super structure inside, insulated from the stone. any views on viability/expense or better ideas gratefully received.

If there’s already a glazed ceramic drain that connects into the sewer am I entitled to use it? I’m certain there’s one not belonging to either neighbour that was connected to the sceptic tank before...

I’ve had a near PH quote for 6.5% in two stages. no pp yet as it’s family farm land, cheaper for me to buy without. I’ve never owned a house before so this side of it’s all new territory.

Thanks for the info. Presume this would be part of an architect’s remit? Just trying to gather as much info as poss before spending