bradders3109

Perhaps not worded particularly well but the graph shows cycles or approx 95 minutes.

Looking at my consumption from yesterday it looks like a cycle lasts about 95 minutes with 70 minutes being on and 25 minutes being off.

I thought a cycle was the entire period the pump was running and standby. Eg: on for 25 minutes, standby for 5 minutes would be a 30 minute cycle.

I'm happy with the internal temp and using the burner when required. This makes sense but I'm not sure how to tell from the app if the unit is cycling more or how to resolve it for increased efficiency?

Just read through the thread to update myself and much of the discussion is a bit above my pay grade.🤔 Back to the heat geek install. We have open loop UFH. Everything run from the Heat Pump with no additional circulation pumps. Weather Compensation active and Heat Curve set to 0.25. Desired temp set to 20 degrees. The good Heat Geek agreed to honour the original quote of £11,054 for the install. Prior to commissioning in early Feb we had very high humidity in the original solid wall part of the house and lots of condensation issues. These have now disappeared and the relative humidity in that area now fluctuates between 32% and 44%. The 20 degree internal temp is rarely met by the UFH and it fluctuates between 18.5 and 19.5 degrees. As mentioned by others on the thread depending on time of day this could feel either cold or warm. When required I boost the temp by lighting the log burner which I like otherwise it would be redundant. Since commissioning the COP just for heating has been Feb 5.9 and so far in March 5.5 which I find a bit confusing since March has been warmer I would have expected a better COP? We have lived without running hot water or heating (stand fast log burner) for four years whilst we have been doing the build. This install has revolutionised our lives. The bad Some of this may be a bit picky but I've included it for completeness. The spark intended to install the heat pump isolator circuit on a type A rcd as he had with all of his previous installs. The Vaillant manual specifies a type B and anything else would invalidate the warranty according to Vaillant technical department. Following a protracted discussion a type B was installed. On day one I walked the install team around the property and explained the build to them. I informed them about the make up of Nudura part of the build, concrete core with rebar at various intervals and polyprolene web within the Nudura. I showed them where to drill in order to miss the rebar and webs. This either didn't sink in or was ignored. They hit both rebar and webs which then took an age to drill through the walls. Some of the pipework was not lagged and I had to do this myself after commissioning. The discharge from the cylinder goes into a soil pipe and the tundish should have had a dry trap seal to prevent foul smells coming back through it. This wasn't done and I've subsequently changed it myself. The condensate does not align with the installed drain and the heating wire and tundish have not been installed? I am awaiting rectification. Hot water thermostat for the cylinder was not fixed in place and loose fitted which resulted in a bit of movement and on one occasion it had fallen out of its housing. Following commissioning the installer informed me that there was a gassing issue with the pump which was causing excessive noise and defrost cycles. He instigated a visit from the Vaillant engineer. The engineer came out and said that there was nothing wrong with the pump. I referred this to Heat Geek and they have decided that there "Heat Geek Elite" installer was wrong and the pump is fine. The concerns I had about the high cost of sundries was perhaps unfounded as there are more components than I expected (see picture). I should say that Heat Geek are just an umbrella organisation and as with all of these things the actual quality of the installers will vary. Disregarding the install issues we are very happy with the outcome and comfort that we now have. This is in danger of turning into war and peace so I'll leave it here.

Well intended government schemes that have the desired effect and consumers engage. unfortunately this leads to a shortage of installers to meet demand. Market rules apply. Demand outstrips supply and prices go up. Often leads to lots of cowboys jumping on the bandwagon I’m confident that heat geek installers don’t fall into that bracket.

I do agree but with the bus grant I'll be paying £3.5k so it's only marginally more than the cost of the heat pump if I was to do a self install. Other quotes that I've had are in the same ball park.

Hi All By way of an update: Heat geek have now agreed to honour the original price adjusted with the removal of the radiators and associated labour. I am much more comfortable with a final price of £11,054. Still perhaps a little expensive and I'll be interested to see what sundries they fit. I will updated this thread with comments on the quality of the install and the SCOP achieved which heat geek are guaranteeing at 350%.

Unfortunately they are quoting £6k after the grant so not much difference really. Is the demand for heat pumps so high that installers are now just thinking of a number and then doubling it when it comes to quoting?

As a sparky I consider sundries to be minor items that wouldn't amount to much worth itemising. These sundries are more expensive than the heat pump. Bonkers

This looks really interesting. Have you or anyone you know done this? I am a sparky and have adapted to many other trades whilst doing the build so aren't afraid of taking this on but it looks too good to be true.

Are heat geek any good? After watching many you tube videos heat geek and Adam in particular clearly understand the complexities of heat pump installation and how to get the best from an install. I completely bought into the heat geek sales pitch. This is my experience. In may 2024 I had the heat geek heat loss survey completed and was very impressed with the process. The results were as below: I was then quoted for a recommended install as follows: I then pointed out to the installer that no radiators were required and could these costs be removed from the quote. I also queried what sundries came to £2622 since big ticket items are itemised and I had already installed the heat pump base and underfloor heating. After refusing to remove the radiator costs, trying to justify them as "other work" and no satisfactory explanation of the sundries I contacted heat geek to explain my frustration and to cancel the contract. I was assured that heat geek were sympathetic with my experience and they requested that I didn't cancel the contract and they would allocate a new heat geek installer and start the process again. I agreed to this. At the beginning of this week I had the new heat geek installer complete his survey and the heat loss calcs are now: Not substantially different. My new proposal is: The heat pump, cylinder and associated equipment is identical on both proposals. I am really having difficulty with the Labour to fit the heat pump and cylinder on the new proposal being over £2000 more expensive than the original. The materials and location are identical. I also still have no explanation of what sundries come to such a high cost and strangely the sundries on the new proposal are exactly £802 more than the original quote. This is the same amount as the three radiators that I don't require. I am rapidly losing faith with heat geek and am now exploring other avenues. This is just my experience and hopefully others have fared better.

Floor designer has redone the clacs based on a 500kg point load and the joists will be fine. I will however spread the load over three joists as suggested. Thanks. The ministry of fun will now be able to shower at her leisure without worrying about how much water she's using. Happy days.

Thanks for the response but unfortunately the floor is already in. I'll go back to them and ask the question. Thanks

Hi All, Wasn''t sure which thread this would come under as it relates to both floor structure and heating install. In about six weeks time we will be having our Heat Geek ASHP installation. We have chosen to go with the Newark HG250A cylinder but on looking more closely at the figures for this and it's bigger brother HG300A I'm now leaning towards the HG300A for a minimal price increase. My question is about whether the floor structure would take the additional weight or even if it would take the weight of the HG250A? Should the installer assess this or is it my responsibility to get structural calcs done? The floor is posi joist as the design below: The red circle shows the proposed location of the tank. Any advice would be appreciated. Regards Mark

Thanks for the responses fellas. I had thought about the tile thickness but didn't think it was 5mm. I just spoke to the technical guy at tapco and he said exactly what you have stated. Tile thickness and camber will be more than 5mm. Thanks again

Hi All, After almost four years of a very slow and painful build we are about to put a roof on, thank god. I'm using Tapco Slate Classic and according to the installation instructions these should be laid on a 50mm x 25mm batten using 30mm clout nails. Since the clout nails are longer than the batten thickness won't this result in numerous punctures to the impermeable membrane which is recommended? Am I unduly worrying or is this a specification error? I've already resolved one conflict in the installation manual whereby the tapco manual states a minimum 25mm drape for the underlay but the recommended underlay installation states a maximum of 15mm drape. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Hi MaryM, How did you get on with the stuart turner conditioner. I've had a plumber round today who has recommended this product. Regards Mark

Thanks Mark

Hi All, We are now well into our self build and have poured the (Nudura) walls for the first floor. This morning the posi joist company arrived with our joists and we have refused the delivery. Since we are not seasoned builders I'm looking for others opinions on the quality that should be expected from a precision product. Please see attached and give us your opinion on the quality of the joists. Defects that we have highlighted are splits in the cords, splits in supporting blocks, supporting blocks are not manufactured tight to the cords and many of the trimmable ends are not centred between the cords.

Hi Adam I did look at Blowerproof but it was more expensive than passive purple.

Hi jfb we are externally insulating the current house and then building an extension with nudura which shouldn't need an airtight membrane.

Hi All, I have finally reached the stage where I need to apply an airtight membrane to the interior of the original house (225mm solid wall, 90 square meters). I don't like the thought of loose membranes and have been looking at passive purple as a sprayed solution. This is coming out expensive and I got to thinking whether a tanking slurry would work as an airtight membrane or any economical alternatives that others have used. thoughts would be very much appreciated.

Thanks for the replies gents. The reassurance and encouragement makes a massive difference to a Virgin self builder. I’ve looked at it again this morning and it’s worse than I originally thought. However 20mm of sharp sand will level it up and cover the eyesore. The positive is that the slab is drying solid although the depth will be variable between 100 and 120mm. Thanks again.

I did screw rails to opposing walls but with trying to mix, barrow into the room and tamp level it got in front of me. The missus was filling buckets ready for the next mix.