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bradders3109

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  • About Me
    Qualified electrician first and last self build project then hopefully a nice retirement.
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    Norfolk Coast

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  1. Floor designer has redone the clacs based on a 500kg point load and the joists will be fine. I will however spread the load over three joists as suggested. Thanks. The ministry of fun will now be able to shower at her leisure without worrying about how much water she's using. Happy days.
  2. Thanks for the response but unfortunately the floor is already in. I'll go back to them and ask the question. Thanks
  3. Hi All, Wasn''t sure which thread this would come under as it relates to both floor structure and heating install. In about six weeks time we will be having our Heat Geek ASHP installation. We have chosen to go with the Newark HG250A cylinder but on looking more closely at the figures for this and it's bigger brother HG300A I'm now leaning towards the HG300A for a minimal price increase. My question is about whether the floor structure would take the additional weight or even if it would take the weight of the HG250A? Should the installer assess this or is it my responsibility to get structural calcs done? The floor is posi joist as the design below: The red circle shows the proposed location of the tank. Any advice would be appreciated. Regards Mark
  4. Thanks for the responses fellas. I had thought about the tile thickness but didn't think it was 5mm. I just spoke to the technical guy at tapco and he said exactly what you have stated. Tile thickness and camber will be more than 5mm. Thanks again
  5. Hi All, After almost four years of a very slow and painful build we are about to put a roof on, thank god. I'm using Tapco Slate Classic and according to the installation instructions these should be laid on a 50mm x 25mm batten using 30mm clout nails. Since the clout nails are longer than the batten thickness won't this result in numerous punctures to the impermeable membrane which is recommended? Am I unduly worrying or is this a specification error? I've already resolved one conflict in the installation manual whereby the tapco manual states a minimum 25mm drape for the underlay but the recommended underlay installation states a maximum of 15mm drape. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
  6. Hi MaryM, How did you get on with the stuart turner conditioner. I've had a plumber round today who has recommended this product. Regards Mark
  7. Hi All, We are now well into our self build and have poured the (Nudura) walls for the first floor. This morning the posi joist company arrived with our joists and we have refused the delivery. Since we are not seasoned builders I'm looking for others opinions on the quality that should be expected from a precision product. Please see attached and give us your opinion on the quality of the joists. Defects that we have highlighted are splits in the cords, splits in supporting blocks, supporting blocks are not manufactured tight to the cords and many of the trimmable ends are not centred between the cords.
  8. Hi Adam I did look at Blowerproof but it was more expensive than passive purple.
  9. Hi jfb we are externally insulating the current house and then building an extension with nudura which shouldn't need an airtight membrane.
  10. Hi All, I have finally reached the stage where I need to apply an airtight membrane to the interior of the original house (225mm solid wall, 90 square meters). I don't like the thought of loose membranes and have been looking at passive purple as a sprayed solution. This is coming out expensive and I got to thinking whether a tanking slurry would work as an airtight membrane or any economical alternatives that others have used. thoughts would be very much appreciated.
  11. Thanks for the replies gents. The reassurance and encouragement makes a massive difference to a Virgin self builder. I’ve looked at it again this morning and it’s worse than I originally thought. However 20mm of sharp sand will level it up and cover the eyesore. The positive is that the slab is drying solid although the depth will be variable between 100 and 120mm. Thanks again.
  12. I did screw rails to opposing walls but with trying to mix, barrow into the room and tamp level it got in front of me. The missus was filling buckets ready for the next mix.
  13. I thank you all very much and am feeling a little better already. I won't try self mixing a slab again though. sharp sand under the celotex it is then.
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