dnoble

Thanks for the useful and reassuring advice. I hate filling in forms, especially unnecessary ones so I may take a view...

Most of the changes are to widths, spacing and layout of glazing + door facing the private garden at the back so not publicly visible. No plans to sell house in next 10-20 years. There was a double french door wit another door next to it which seemed like overkill door-wise so latter changed to a window for example

Thanks for the reply. So it might be worth risking not applying for a NMA if the only downside of them noticing at sign off is you apply after the event? They cant fine you or charge loads more or something?

I know there's no exact definition of what constitutes this, and the planning officer was unhelpful/non-committal in his email reply today. Having secured planning consent, if I want to reduce the size of a window, or replace a double french door on the plans with a single door and a window in the same space (with no overlooking implications) am I going to need to apply for a non material amendment (and if so will I have to apply for each changed window at 195 per pop!!)? Its worth noting that the plans I had approved don't actually detail the exact sizes of all the windows involved)

Hello all No relation, I'm afraid Ferdinand. Thanks for the replies. By counter-battening presume you're describing putting a vertical batten beneath the horizontal as I described? I did wonder if butting together boards which might shrink may end up looking a bit rubbish, Ian The sarking boards look good; are they really untreated with anything, how long do you anticipate them lasting? The house is a SIPs structure though interestingly the architect of passive house did the drawings, so he's clearly left his mark. Dan

I'm building an MBC SIPs passive house and investigating cladding. Doing it on a tight budget and and found a source of Douglas Fir plain boards. I'm wondering if these, fixed close, or even with a small gap, fixed vertically on battening would provide a sufficient cover for the house, bearing in mind there's a membrane under the battening. The prevailing wind-ward walls are fairly well sheltered by balconies and brise-soleil-type canopy. Some wind driven rain might penetrate between the boards but should be able to drain/dry out easily. One issue is that I'd prefer the boards went vertically which would mean there'd be horizontal battens (with wouldn't allow penetrated water to drain down), though these could I suppose be mounted on a second set of vertical battens so provide drainage? So I'm wondering if I can get away with pain edges boards or should I cough up extra and get profiles ones with overlaps/shiplaps/T&G Any advice appreciated! Dan EastAndWestElevations.pdf SouthElevation.pdf