kestrel

Traditional fascia and gutter In the pics the fascia is below the underlay.....its hidden by the underlay as ive not trimmed it down yet

Ahh i see, so its a common way of fitting that creates a common problem

So is this a common/correct way of fitting then, and importantly, does it increase the chance of water getting through and under the tiles? just seems not quite right especially since water was getting through the tiles in this exact area I assumed this to be the cause of water running down the fascias and into the soffits after not being able to find anything else obvious above or around the area in question yes the side lap looks good all tiles inspected and no breaks or cracks. Headlap is within spec as is the side lap

Concerned the tiles being at such a shallow angle will prevent water run off and pooling as mentioned @joe90. I might have to try cutting some of the top out of the fascia out with my multi tool. Does anyone one know if there is a reference somewhere as to what the correct dimension from the top edge of the fascia to the top of the rafter should be? Cant see anything on redlands data sheets

Yes I'll be fitting trays. Never had them fitted before and suffered water getting behind and running down the fascias hence me lifting the tiles/battens only to discover the eaves course was very flat

any other ideas on the options available?

original batten spacing with the batten sitting directly on the rafter Had a go a putting some wood shims under the first batten to try and improve the angle the picture is not completely square on the end of the tiles but you get the idea

here we go, i managed to get a couple of pics today when it stopped raining..... just did a test fit with a batten spacer as per the original batten spacing and position Then tried to shim up the first batten with a spacer underneath Either way the first tile and the one above it look too flat of an angle

Joe when you say double up the batten do you mean two battens stacked one on top of the other? Wouldn't that throw off the angle of the second tile up?

Thanks guys. They are definatley kicking up too much as they are not far off sitting flat. The main thing id like to understand is if i can correct the issue without having to remove and reposition the fascias and all the associated fittings. as theres alot of it! Took a look at the redland site and cant find anything on the pdf for the tiles

In the process of refitting the first three courses of tiles after doing some repairs and noticed the eaves course sits at a very shallow angle compared to the tile above it.(think this is called a sprocket?) Anyway its is possibly how water was getting under the tiles and into the eaves in the first place as i couldn't find any broken tiles or traces of water ingress from above. It seems like the fascias (fitted before i lived here) are too high causing the eave course to sit at the wrong angle (too shallow). From what I understand the fascia would need to be dropped in order to get the correct angle on the eaves but id have to also reposition the height of the soffit vents, drain pipes and fittings to suit the fascia adjustment then fill/repaint/make good I thought about trimming the top of the fascia but this section of roof has a 90° corner so id have to strip and modify that fascia so everything sits at the same height on the perpendicular run. It would also leave a weird notch at the gable end where the under cloak sits on the last few inches of fascia and barge board so im not going to try this In this situation is there any other way i can correct the angle of the eaves tiles with out having to remove all the fascias and reposition everything? Could i pack out the first tile batten with plastic or wooden spacers to try increase the angle of the first tile? ps its a plain redland tile, spec'ed at 35° min pitch. Not measured the angle yet but looking at how the tiles sit, its much less than this

Just an update for anyone thats interested.... i found this link suggesting the underlay should go under the under cloak on on top of it..... http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm looks like mine was not done correctly in the first instance so will have to correct it.

so heres a couple of pics that hopefully explain my question a bit better.... From underneath with the soffit removed you can see where the felt has rotted away and needs to be replaced and eaves trays fitted below you can see where the old felt was tucked on top of the cement board under cloak at the verge. I actually thought that the felt was supposed to go underneath the cement board.... Which way round is correct? from the top i can remove tiles up to and including the one pointed out by the pry bar...... the verge tiles are mortared in place so can be moved without breaking the mortar When i replace the felt/underlay what needs to be done in order to secure the underlay when i get to the verge/cement board/gable end, given that the verge tiles are bedded in? assuming the underlay should be nailed to the last rafter, then tucked over the gable and trimmed is the only option to break the mortar, remove enough verge tiles then rebed once the new underlay is in place? Is there another way to do this with out disturbing the verge? hope this makes sense

Yes i forgot to mention that.... id be removing the first few rows of tiles. Only removed the tiles temporarily in a couple of spots where the water marks on the fascia were the wost for a quick look at what is going on so far. Will get some pics when I get a chance Just trying to think ahead and work out how to do the end of the run where the tiles are mortared in at the verge and if ill need to allow time to remove and refit the verge tiles

where the felt has rotted, there is little to no run off into the gutter do ive got lots of watermarks down the front of the fascias. also noticed some getting inside when inspected from the loft. some places it looks like the felt has rotted a few inches higher than where plastiv eaves protectors will reach so i need to fit a strip of membrane or dpc to repair the damaged felt. just not sure how best to secure it at the verge ends under the cement board without it coming loose

The eaves felt along the south facing roof on my house has perished and needs replacing... Im planning to do this with a synthetic membrane which will probably be around 10 or so inches wide(will get a better idea when i inspect the full run) the question Ive got is how do you fix the membrane at the verge ends making sure it doesn't fall down into the eaves space? Im able to slip the membrane up and under the cement board under cloak but cant secure it to the end rafter or the top edge of the gable since the verge tiles are all mortared in place? Was hoping to do this without having to lift the verge tiles Any ideas of suggestions on what others have done?

possibly...tiles are about 8'' top to bottom so might be able to make it out of 12'' thanks

so they need cutting to an almost triangular shape like so?

Im doing a bit of repair work on tiled valley with redland plain concrete valley tiles, much the same as this image i found online. The valley is felted under the tiles From what iv read there must be some lead fitted under the first valley /tile and a half to create water run off however im not sure on the exact detail required. My first valley tile sits on top of the two mitered eaves tiles shown in red in the attached diagrams. what im not sure about is the required shape and how far the lead needs to extend past the two mitered eaves tiles. Also should the lead be folded down to hook around the edges of the eaves tiles so it doesn't slip? I got the following image online and sketched over it showing the mitered tiles in red and two different interpretations of the shape of the lead(in green) but no idea if either is correct My initial understanding was the lead should cover the eaves tlies and the space behind them and is folded down over the side of each tile before butting to the next eaves tile. Like this Or should trim the back of lead to suit the outline of the mitered eaves tiles and only fold the top edges of the lead over the eaves tile and have more overlap at the sides like this? already have a 12" roll of lead, will that be wide enough to do the job? Thanks for any advice Kes

Hi folks, Im a mechanical engineer by trade but been doing my own property renovation projects in various forms for quite a few years from plastering through to plumbing and complete kitchen and bathroom re-modeling plus a bunch of other stuff in between.... I probably more of a self renovator than a self builder since im yet to build anything structural! I'll have a go at most things (except gas or major electrics which is reserved for the professionals) came across this site when googling for some info on a project im currently working so though id sign up and hopefully learn an few things from the other members. Hopefully ill be able to help others too. Cheers Kes