kestrel

Thanks for the info guys. @Alan Ambrose can you point me in the right direction to where i can view the BC regs? Currently looking through this in addition to the other links provided above https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/combustion-appliances-and-fuel-storage-systems-approved-document-j

Err i kind of already started 😅 Yep got them both I'm comfortable doing the masonry work as it's all cosmetic. Just need to find the accurate info on what clearances (top bottom and sides) are allowed to be so I can get that bit sorted out since I plan to lower the wood beam as well as re model the brick work. There's already a flue liner, register plate, stove with notice plate and all the other hardware installed from before so I'm happy to get a hetas person in to make/advise on the required changes Needed for the reinstall/sign off.

I posted a few months ago about a pre installed wood burner that I inherited when but was experiencing poor performance with the heat output etc. I've recently started dismantling the brick work around the fire place in the hope improve things but this has raised some additional questions around the original install... Firstly, by me modifying the install.( I plan to fit a rear flue adapter to replace the current top outlet configuration in order to bring the stove forward into the room a bit more) Does this mean I need to get the install re-certified? If so what's the process as a diyer? Second there are a few questions around some aspects of the original install... 1. The register plate sits in a groove cut into the masonry and is pretty secure. ( You need to push it up and wiggle it out at an angle it to remove it) however it's not mechanically fixed in place... Should it be? 2. The flue pipe that joins the stove to the flue liner is an offset bend made of two pieces that slot together. When I dismantled them to remove there was no sealant between any of the joints. (Ive never had any issues with smoke entering the room or my co alarm going off) Just wondering if they should have been sealed for good measure? Lastly the clearance around the stove to the masonry... When I removed the stove I realised that it was fitted with a rear heat shield that was actually touching the back of the recess. I'll be removing this and fitting the rear flue adapter thus creating a gap at the back of the stove. Is there a specific minimum distance the stove needs to be from the rear and side masonry? Can't find anything pertaining to non combustible surfaces. Tia

So it looks like I've got a charnwood C4 or C5(would have to measure up to confirm when I get a chance) Yes it looks like it does support a rear flue adapter based on the info online. So that could be an option. Given the super limited clearance ive got no idea how they managed to fit the existing flue pipe to the top of the stove and fit it all in. Feels like this was definitely fitted into an undersized recess I think my first thing I need to do is get some of the brickwork out of the way and get a better idea of what I'm working with and my options.

I can plaster a wall neatly... (Hoping there's some transferable skill in there that helps with laying a brick properly!😂) In all seriousness though I can at least do the dismantling part. Then if need be get a brickie in to do the bit requiring a bit more finesse

I agree. That looks good @joe90 Mine in comparison just feels way too restricted with the small recess and the hood. Also realised that the back of the box on mine is practically touching the wall so not a good air space

No. Mine doesn't have it unfortunately

So I did some more investigation and thinking about how I might be able to pull the stove forward into the room a bit more. The current install has a double bend flue connection pipe similar the one pictured Would it be possible to replace that with a double 90 degree bend? The only thing is I don't have that 50cm gap shown in the image so not sure how I'd be able to get access in order to swap the parts. Any ideas?

Yeah to be fair I think the problem is down to the position of where it's been fitted. Hopefully something that's not too much hassle to sort out

Ha! Loads of people I talk to rave about how their wood burners heat the whole house....when I moved in I was all keen to see what all the fuss was about.... Not much it seems😂 maybe it's just a sub optimal install

Yes you can't sit too close to it for very long. You can feel a lot of heat coming off the box. The bricks get very warm to the touch. Just don't get much of that to the room unfortunately

Not able to pull the stove forward due to the lack of space into which it's been fitted...would need at least to remove the brick arch in order to pull it forward. I will give the fan idea it a go before I resort to pulling bricks out

It's closed off with a metal plate although there is a slight gap (less than 10mm) along one of the edges

It feels like it's all going into the brick hood Smoke goes straight up the chimney and out There's a metal flue and liner in the chimney.

The problem: The fire place/surround in my place has this 'hood' type feature built into the brick work. I think the previous owners may have had an open fire and got the burner fitted at some point. Anyway, whenever i use the wood burner the hood seems to act like a huge heat sink resulting in all of the heat produced from the burner going into warming up the bricks and not the room In addition, the wood burner itself has been shoehorned into the smallest opening possible. This prevents me from being able to at least try to fit a stove fan on the top to see if i can get any heat into the room. So ive got a nice little wood burner that is little more than a display object at the moment. in the hope that i can get more heat into the room im thinking of trying to dismantle all the bricks that from the hood so that im left with a flat faced fire place. If possible ill also remove a few courses of brick so that the height of the opening is tall enough to fit a stove fan. on inspection, the arch has a steel support lintel in place. looking further inside, the brick face behind the hood appears to have had a steel support at some point, possibly to fit the burner in. Im after some advice on how best to dismantle the brick hood, raise the height of the opening so i can fit a stove fan and make good the remaining brick work, plus the support that looks to have been cut. Ive got a sds drill breaker, and all the tools needed. The plan was to remove the bricks working from the top down, removing the arch and its support lintel last and finally the bricks that stick out as supports. (i did think about trying to remove the base and drop the level of the burner but this wont give be the additional head room to fit a stove fan ant ill sill have the problem of the hood acting like a heat sink. Would also have to remove the burner for access) has anyone ever done something remotely similar to this and have any tips to offer?

I want to put a hole through the joist in the narrowed position in order to run a 50mm shower waste through to the stack its a 63X200 joist and from what i can measure under the floor broads is at least a 3m span. Its close to the end of the joist which is my concern. Was wondering if it might be doable if i reinforce the joist either side with thick ply, glued and screwed in place before drilling through the joist and ply

Yes its a 40mm pipe for the white bidet pipe

Yes its on the top floor of the house and yes the stack goes up through the roof. Is it possible to just push the stack upwards enough through the roof in order to disconnect the branches and replace the bits needed then pull the stack back down? (sorry im not sure how the stack is held in place where it exits the roof. Doesn't seem to have any brackets holding it in the loft though) Or is cutting an fitting a slip coupler the only option?

working on my bathroom refurb and have removed tiles/boxing etc to find he following arrangement the white pipe in the fore ground is for the bidet which is being permanently removed, its a push fit socket. the white pipe running along the top of the floor board and round the back of the stack before connecting into the stack is the shower drain. I want to move this below the floor board so there is no need for boxing. The problem is its solvent welded in place where it goes into the branch instead of trying to make use of the existing shower outlet i was thinking i could just re use the push fit outlet from the bidet that will be disconnected for the new shower waste but a few questions: 1. would it be okay to connect the new shower up to the push fit outlet? (not sure if it needs to be solvent welded or not?) 2. can i just cut and cap off the existing shower outlet with some sort of blanking cap? 3. any other suggestions?

is there any way to prevent/reduce water getting in? (Ideally would like to not have to get the verge re bedded if possible)

Ive noticed that some of my verge tiles dont look like they sit quite right.....notice the gaps between the first few tile courses? After having cleaned up the moss ive have a few leaks around this area and cant find any damaged or broken tiles Do you think the gaps could leave the tiles prone to leaks from wind driven/heavy rain? especially with the run off from the gutter above (which has been straightened out since taking the pics) Is there anything i can do to seal up these gaps to prevent the likelihood of water being blown up into the gaps?

Yep Undecided at the moment. Instructions say to fit the eaves course as normal then fit the protector to the batten for the first full sized tile and each full tile batten thereafter That will ensure the top of the eaves course and the top of first full course above the eaves are covered. Ill do a test fit on the very first batten and see how it affects the eaves tiles then decide

Thanks for the advice guys. I came across this product which might get me out of having to strip everything and cut down/refit right away https://www.permavent.co.uk/products/plain-easy/ looks very much like a eurocell eaves protector with most of the lip cut off and fitted upside down going to try a couple of runs on the first few courses where the tile pitch is affected and see if it helps buy me some time until the weather improves and i can do a proper job of it.

Never heard of this before. Does it do a similar job as a tilting fillet?