NandM

3 core confirmed (blue, green and yellow). Looking at the TCL calc, the cable should be fine for what I have planned. This is helpful as I can buy a perm new induction hob, rather than get something temp and ebay it later.

From memory it was three core, but will check tomorrow. It's partly fixed along a brick wall and then goes down under a 100mm slab for about a meter, before popping up in the greenhouse. In the greenhouse I've wired it up into an IP66 junction box and from there into a switched RCD socket. At the house end, it's just connected via a junction box to an old extension lead I had - and this is plugged into a socket when needed....but the bodge at both ends will be fixed by a someone who knows what they are doing. I'll check out the links - thank you.

As part of my prep for the main extension project next year, I've decided to upgrade some outbuildings to use for temp accommodation. We currently have a 10mm armoured cable (19mm OD) from the garage to the greenhouse that I was using to power some fans. At the garage end I've just converted the armoured cable to an extension lead as a temp fix. I now plan to use some of the greenhouse (4m x 4m space) as a kitchen/utility room as the house will be unliveable and would like to understand what my options are re hot water and appliances. The UVC that we currently have will be disconnected, so I'm thinking about sticking it in the greenhouse and running it off the mains at night. I also plan to have the dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer all connected in the greenhouse as well. And finally, a hob and mini-oven (or one that runs of 13amp plug). At the end of the garden, approx 60m from the house and 35m from the greenhouse will be another building that will have an area to watch TV etc. and a non-electric shower (how water from UVC in greenhouse) and a saniflo toilet. We will also have one electric heater and a bunch of lights. There is an armoured power lead here also, but looks too small for the distance from house...I haven't investigated the size, but I the OD looks to be around 10mm. I'm thinking about a new cable from the greenhouse to this building. The greenhouse has the highest power requirement with the current design, but what I'd like to know is what level of power would be possible without changing to a larger cable (as this is temp for 6-9 months)...and with a sparky connecting it up correctly at the house end. Would I need to ditch electric hob and oven and go LPG instead? Likewise with UVC?

I have a similar conundrum and will most likely do as @torre....although I'm also contemplating on removing the final two steps and 90 turn to have the staircase face a different direction.

Oooh - can you share details of who gave you the third quote? The best I've had is £2.5K for 28m3.

That's a good point!

I've raised the question with our council planning officer and will report back.

Agreed - i've seen some simple setups using a compressor and vacuum gun that also works really quickly. I think you could bodge together one of these vacuum guns with a paint spray machine for the pva and have both hooked up into one outlet.

I had another quote at £4.9K and just as I was about to give up on using an installer, I had an Ecobead Platinum approved installer quote me £2.4K. I haven't thought about warranty - would this be applicable to an extension? I have found someone selling almost 20m3 (I need 28m3) of grey beads for just under £300, but delivery doubles that to £600. If I add to that a half-decent setup for the installation, then financially I'm looking at under a grand to do two-thirds of what I need. Which made a lot of sense with the previous quotes I had, but still tempting with the lower quote....plus storage would be a nightmare.

So I've had around three quotes so far for blown-in EPS (150sqm of wall @ 200mm cavity) and they are all within the £4K - £4.5K range...this is much more than I thought it would be given some of the historic quotes on this forums (2021/2022). Which brings me to the question of using non-"branded"/BBA/KIWA certified EPS beads and going down the DIY route as per the other thread. Would there be any push back from building control if I was to use beads without a certificate?

@jayc89 - how did you end up using and how much did it cost in the end?

I've just had an email from warmcell also advising not to use it. So EPS it is then

After reading the DIY blown-in EPS beads thread, I started looking into DIY blown-in cellulose. I was/am planning to use it for the cavity walls and also flat/pitches roofs....but: 1) I've had a very helpful chap (Jasper) over at X-Floc tell me that cellulose is not suitable for brick/block cavity as "There is too much of a risk of interstitial condensation and risk of water penetration from the outer layer." When I asked for more information, he said " When it is a timber frame there is always a ventilated void on the outside before the brickwork or indeed any other rainscreen layer. Also, the frame itself has a vapour control level on the internal side at least 5x higher than the external side which helps prevent the interstitial condensation risk. The other equally risky factor for a fully filled brick and block cavity is that external brickwork can leak, water gets through mortar cracks or porous bricks into the insulation layer. Worst case this causes degradation to the insulation and dampness internally or just diminishing the insulation performance if it is wet." 2) I also read the FAQ in the Thermofloc website, which again doesn't recommend using cellulose for brick/block cavity (last FAQ in the list) I know forum members here have used it in a timber frame - but has anyone used cellulose in brick/block? Does the reasoning from Jasper make sense and would it be less riskier with EPS beads?

I've been looking into DIY blown-in cellulose and have had a quote from Markham Sheffield to hire a Turbisol 56/2 for £225ex vat. I've asked about additional accessories...but the price for the machine seems quite good.

For now, I've registered here: https://www.alertr.co.uk/account/profile Not sure how well it works or whether it'll just be a spam bot....