ruggers

Thanks Nick. I brought it up today and they actually took one side of the wall down and installed the missing PIR after their outburst. A decent outcome i never expected.

EPS bead info. required. Im building a house which has a ground floor integral garage to house cavity divide wall. The full 6m length of the 2475mm high wall was supposed to have 100mm PIR insulation in a 110mm gap, but the builder decided that the end 1.35m section which is out of the garage and only separates the hallway to utility didn't require insulating because they are internal rooms. He's clueless to heat loss and this section is still part of the same cavity wall linked to the rest of the house cavity. theres the 10mm air gap, plus the 225 between the underside of the PIR installed and the bottom of the cavity. Because I'm still able to look down this cavity from the top because the first floor hasn't yet been installed, I'm thinking my best option would be to add some EPS from the top and pack it down. I luckily have a lintel section at the bottom of this void for UFH pipes, which means I have top & bottom access and could use expanding foam to squirt in between the bottom of the PIR & the cavity base to seal off the air & stop any EPS being lost. I'll require 0.4m3 or 14 cu feet. Where could I buy this or any other advice would be appreciated?

What size DPC would you use, 450 or 600? I tired 450 yesterday because i have some, and if fully bedded on the outer leaf, then angled up 225 and horizontally lapped in over the 100mm PIR, it beds in the inner skin by 50-60mm 100/150/100

The warranty company hasn't said anything, I've just went with a local person for it, cheap as they come because its all a paperwork exercise really I'm self building and project managing separate trades. I just wanted to meet the essentials to have a leak free house since using face bricks, but not have to hassle the builder too much who's set in his ways being old. I cant see the benefit of trays under sills if I have proper ones over openings but its worth me asking. Some stone sill on the front, rest upvc. All set back 25mm into cavity.

In a masonry constructed house 100 face brick / 150 partial fill cavity/ 100 dense block and using catnic style lintels. Are trays required below the window sills? Above them a dpc roll can be used with turned up ends into the perps, would this be 450 or 600 roll? The plastic cavity trays for above were going to be really expensive if made to suit, unless people use off the shelf ones? Builder only uses catnic and says above opening trays arent required which ive said im using birtley and 100% want them as its been warranty criteria for decades.

The builder has said the house to garage fire door has to be installed on the garage side of the cavity wall, is this correct? My current home has it on the inside but this was built 15 years ago and building control were a bit lax. Do i need a special fire rated casing?

I need some weeps for my grey facing brick perps to go above the trays. Theres the taller thin cassette type, roughly 10mm x 60mm Or the peep weeps. What are most commonly used? Looking at muck drop off from the builder I'd imagine a much higher chance of a peep weep getting blocked. The grey ones are the exact same colour as the brick.

I've found in my current home with same integral garage, that having the outside walls also insulated slows doen the release of the heat lost from the house and the temperature in the garage is never less than 11 degrees on the coldest day. Issue is needing a fire door between utility and garage loses a lot of heat. I trued to find an insulated airtight fd30 to no avail.

Would my original sketch not be a better set out so the dpc is external to the building. There will be 100mm insulation in the garage walls too and 50mm insulated sectional door on the garage. No side doors to outside, only an internal door to utility room.

Thanks Nick. I suppose the foams for minor insulation and in this case not required, so just keep the gap to a fingers width, bed the 100mm dpc under the lintel on the inner leaf and then run a bead of adhesive on the wall and stick the dpc to the cavity side of the inner leaf. Then let the mesh bridge the gap & K rend TC 15 over both. Could always add some low expansion gun foam between the dpc and returning block to help support the mesh bridging the gap if needed.

Thanks guys. I just wanted to check while im at the setting out stage for inner leaf dpc course. I understand the princliples of heat loss for the thermal envelope and setting windows back, fully insulating reveals etc, but wanted to make sure the garage was being done the best way to prevent the cracking you refer to. Builder wanted to leave open and upvc over it but i said its a bit ugly. Ive had them hairline cracks on my current garage reveals. So having never used the vertical dpc foam insert, can you tell me how its installed and is it just one thickness of foam bonded to dpc? Is it a compression fit installed when the lintel goes in with the top being bedded in under the lintel?

I need advice of the best way to close off my garage door reveal for finishing plaster. I'm building a house with an integrated garage which sits under a first floor bedroom. The build is partial fill cavity 100 block, 100 pir, 50 air gap, 100 face brick. I'm aware of thermal bridging using the returned block method, and wont be doing this on the rest of the house, but would it be the best option for my garage door reveals to provide a solid backing for rendered reveal, or what other options do i have? Upvc i think will get scuffed over the years in anthracite. Adding plastic cavity closers could be flimsy and would likely require a lot of mesh? Rendered reveals would be sand and cement, or k rend tc15.

I'm following on doing the insulation so i get the opportunity to do my best with it. The house is started so I can't change the cavity size and no one uses blown bead where we live. It's not suitable for facebrick outer skin in wind driven rain areas, only with render on. I've not seen driterhm before. Everyone local uses PIR partial fill or timber frame.

Thinking back to this. How tight is the tongue and groove fit, is it too snug to pass DPC roll between the joint to bed onto the inner skin and then step down to outside DPC level? Cutting the tongue off flush effectively making one side a square edged board to allow DPC to pass between may be an option.

@Brickie So it is recommended that I include this stepped DPC around the house perimeter from the outer leaf DPC level (on top of telescopic vent) which is 150mm above ground level, to 225mm above inside finished floor level? The same as figure 26 NHBC image I attached on an earlier post? But rather than slice through the PIR at an angle, just pass it between the PIR joint. This would produce a steeper angle on the DPC roll than splicing through the PIR, but still direct wind driven rain back out through the weeps and prevent pooling in the bottom of the cavity?