ruggers

Thats a hell of a lot of screws per board compared to them guides showing 3 vs my builders none. I was thinking if both sides are screwed down too early, it would make it very difficult to get the next row t&g fit together and that it may be better to connect the next row in before screwing down each side of the newly glued joint. But this would mean once you start the job you have to keep going otherwise your screwing down boards that have set glue if the working time is 30 mins.

So thats one on every joists 0, 600, 1200, 1800, 2400. Assuming the 1200 and 1800 fixings, your fitting them on the opposite side to the 0 and 2400 ones but only after the 2nd row t&g are fitted to make it easier to pair them up and not be over clamped

How many srews did you put in a 2400 x 600 board? My guide shows 3 per sheet i thought it was 6. Ive 90 boards to lay.

Can you elaborate on the partially threaded screw so i can look for some. Not quite understanding why it would jack up? I thought 22mm boards would require a small pilot to get the screw started easier as they're quite hard but ive never used my impact gun on them. Nothing worse than cursing screws that wont start and end up with the driver head slipping into the fingers 😂 I had been looking at 4.0 x 60mm. Ill be laying them next week if its dry then exposed for 4 to 6 weeks. They are 60 day boards, no peel off, anti slip and protected both sides. @LaChab After you posted the Egger fitting guide, i looked for a krono fastshield one and it also tells you to fix the board on all 4 corners and 2 in the middle so I've no idea why their tech support said to just glue only. @Gone West what tape did you use, any old duct tape? kb-fast-shield-fitting-guide-final.pdf

Yes to this, also the perimeter edges are all exposed so would need sealed too with d4 glue or an alternative? Ive never used d3 or d4 glue, only pva and screws 15 years ago which was weather tight. No issues. Does a nail gun give the same pull down or would screwed be better, pilot drill and impact driver i could be following on behind as he lays them. Can't believe the krono tech advice and the linked above egger guidance says that glue only can be an option. Wind uplight could loosen them.

This is what i thought. I dont like a glue only idea. Tempted to fit them all myself. Do they need pulled tight with ring shanks or screws as the glue is setting or could i let him install them then follow on after he's gone same day or another day?

I'm about to install the first floor on my self build using Krono span P5 fast shield t&g 22mm boards and D4 glue. These are a similar product to caberdeck and egger protect for those unfamiliar with the brand. My question is, can they be installed with D4 glue only after the first row is mechanically fixed using screws or ring shank nails, or, does every board need fixed and glued? My builder who's installing them on this occasion, has said just glue after the first row because nail holes or screws will let water in. Is this ok, or cutting corners? I thought tape or filling the holes covered this issue. In the past i've always screwed as well but i do like to do things properly or belt and braces at times. I called krono for advice but the person i got didnt seem overly confident in their advice saying glue only should be enough.

Thanks Danny, I've started to install above lintels as you mention, but its sometimes hard to go beyond the width of the lintel due to the Cavity wall PIR & then where the external perps align. Becuse I'm using the T&G PIR I've been bringing it to each side of the lintel, then cutting it square. And in between the two square edge cuts over the lintel, I've profiled the PIR to the same angle of each lintel leaning outwards, then foil taping the the square edge joints. It helps minimise the cold bridging over the top of each lintel.

If you come down the wall 100mm with the AVCL, how do you D&D the boards to the walls with a perimeter edge seal. The board dab would then only be adhered to the AVCL at the top, not the wall?

@Nick Laslett Do you still use any kind of tapes or liquid membrane when going to use aerobarrier, or just use aero barrier only? @MortarThePoint How much passive purple did you use. Full walls, or just key areas or walls and joints?

I don't like the Tony tray for 253mm joists, looks ok for 225mm joists. Too late now joists are ordered and hangers are here. I like the timber ledger plate with timber hangers, but couldn't get the S.E to agree to it with it spaced off the wall 20mm to allow for services. Already at 1st floor height using T&G PIR. Got a direct load of it. EPS can't be used in our area with facing brick and cat 4 or 5 wind driven rain. I agree its a much quicker and easier way of getting consistent results, but I've never heard of a single person in the county who's used it. Trying to get architects and others on board in the early days was hard work. They all live by cavities need to breath. Never heard of Brink, I'll look into it. Any certain model to rival the Zehnder with preheater? I was going with a company to refine my on design, supply and commission. I'll self install. I've spent too long studying everything else & against the clock now so don't want to design & calculate my own. Not many trades will be involved once built. I'll be doing or involved in 80% of the rest other than plastering & windows. I don't have extra for aerobarrier so it would need to come from a saving elsewhere as you mentioned. Unfortunately family bereavement now means theres a set amount to complete the project with no real way to add more.

I'm looking to achieve the best air pressure test result I can on my 200m2 masonry self build. Under 2M3/hr/m2 @50 PA I'm about to install the 1st floor joists & would like advice on sealing the block outer walls. All of the walls, or focus only on the area directly behind the masonry joist hangers, which once installed, I can't get behind them. A little about the build & what I've considered.: Masonry cavity wall 100 dense block, 100mm Tongue & groove PIR fitted by myself with most joints taped, 50mm air gap, 100mm facing brick. MVHR to be installed (Zehnder Q350) *First floor installed using 250mm deep masonry hangers - These will be tight to the blocks so i'd like to seal the blocks before the hangers are installed. Windows, doors, ceilings etc will all be sealed & taped including airtight loft hatch. Walls will be dot & dabbed with perimeter edge picture framed in dab then boards skimmed. Wet plastering isn't gonna happen. For sealing the air permeable block work before dabbing, options are: Do nothing. Brush sand/cement slurry over all internal walls, which many seem to say that parge coating is now a waste of time, why? Cover all block work in liquid membrane like passive purple, blower proof membrane, Soudal soudatight. (Expensive but effective). Use liquid membrane but only around key areas like DPC level, around the hangers & wall plate junctions? Aerobarrier - Too expensive from what I've seen, over £2k not in my budget. They say if water can get through blocks, air definitely can.

I'm using the cavity closers and also adding a little onto them so I have 100 continuity all round and no block returns at reveals. I'm using T&G PIR and doing it all myself to ensure it's fitted correctly and all mortar is removed.

Thanks Nick. I brought it up today and they actually took one side of the wall down and installed the missing PIR after their outburst. A decent outcome i never expected.

EPS bead info. required. Im building a house which has a ground floor integral garage to house cavity divide wall. The full 6m length of the 2475mm high wall was supposed to have 100mm PIR insulation in a 110mm gap, but the builder decided that the end 1.35m section which is out of the garage and only separates the hallway to utility didn't require insulating because they are internal rooms. He's clueless to heat loss and this section is still part of the same cavity wall linked to the rest of the house cavity. theres the 10mm air gap, plus the 225 between the underside of the PIR installed and the bottom of the cavity. Because I'm still able to look down this cavity from the top because the first floor hasn't yet been installed, I'm thinking my best option would be to add some EPS from the top and pack it down. I luckily have a lintel section at the bottom of this void for UFH pipes, which means I have top & bottom access and could use expanding foam to squirt in between the bottom of the PIR & the cavity base to seal off the air & stop any EPS being lost. I'll require 0.4m3 or 14 cu feet. Where could I buy this or any other advice would be appreciated?