Bramco

That would make the tiling job harder and worst still make it the next job in the queue....

Interesting - we have 3 players, all Pi Zeros and haven't had a failure yet in well over 5 years.... There's been lots of discussion on many forums about which SD cards are more prone to failures.

Have you checked all the mobile networks in your area - there are some good phone apps that show the signal. We bought throw away SIMs for EE, Vodafone, 3 etc. and used an old phone to check the 'real' signal around our plot. EE won hands down, the rest were truly dire. We're on a Mozillion unlimited SIM now - about the cheapest around on EE. One thing of course, if you are restricted to one provider, then if they have issues in your area, you'll be off line for a while. The fallout of Boris kowtowing to the Americans and outlawing Huawei kit for the masts meant we had about 9 months of very flaky throughput until I guess they got some other supplier to fill the backlog of orders.... Hopefully the Boris hangover has now been cleared and repairs are done quickly. Haven't had any issues in the last 18 months. I suppose there is a chance that with Musk's complete disregard for his moral duties on X and the recent merging of SpaceX with X, the government might decide to outlaw the Musk empire - but I somehow doubt they would have the chutzpah to do that.

Or if you see someone building something interesting near you, stop and have a chat. Before we started, I'd cycle past a guy building in the next village. When I saw he was using charred wood for cladding, I was interested, so one day, saw he was there, cycled down the drive and found out a lot more about what he was building. Turned out he was a builder and this was the last one which was for him and then retirement. Had a long chat about renewables etc. The chat didn't go any further but it easily could have done - we had a main contractor but if I'd been self building, I'm sure I'd have ended up round there again with questions. Since we've finished (ahem!) it's amazing how many vehicles pull up opposite the house with folks obviously sitting there, saying look at that, could we do that etc. You see them surreptitiously taking photos as well. If I'm out and about, I'll give them a wave and cheery smile and if I can ask them if there's anything they want to know. It's mainly complements (there aren't many self build houses round here..) but often there'll be questions about the cladding, or the blinds, or how the house is heated etc. So to cut a long story short - put your British reserve in a box - and go and ask about their build - we're all proud of what we're doing/have done, if you do though, don't expect to get away quickly.... One other thought on this would be that if there was a register here of the main aspects of each of our builds and roughly where they were, then that could act as a resource for new members starting out on their journey - could this be something that a student could knock up as a final year project? Rather than it being another 'to-do' for the mods. I'm sure a small group (not mods) could knock together a spec for discussion. Or maybe there's already a prototype somewhere in a building sciences department waiting to be let out in the wild. The mods could make it that there are certain thresholds of number of posts, where a poster is asked to fill in the register. And finally, if anyone on here has stopped outside our build, then why didn't you come and ask about it! We're in batman village (if you know, you know) south of Nottingham.

From the contract, so unless they shortchanged us..... And the ring/intermediate beams should be 350. Also noted that our vaulted ceilings are 0.1, not what I said earlier.

We built after you @jack and the advice then was to fit electric UFH in the bathrooms which we did and yes a warm tiled floor is well worth the small extra costs.

Just wondered if being in a screed meant the floor didn't retain the heat you put into it as well as a passiv slab should (and in our case seems to do). The MBC slabs are 150mm over 300mm EPS

Maybe we're just more tolerant than you 😉 We have both overhangs and external blinds on the south facing sliding doors. Which means little solar gain in the summer. But plenty if we need it in the spring and autumn and plenty in the winter when it's not cloudy. Probably the worst thing for most people is that they haven't any experience of what to design in - in our case that was certainly the case! So it's serendipity that the blinds were a great choice, as were the rooflights and sliding doors for managing things. We did do a lot of reading around heat loss and the need/or not for heating on the 1st floor and as I said made provision for supplementary heating but haven't needed to install it.

Not sure I agree @Nickfromwales. Although all of this is about personal preferences. Ours is an MBC build, you've worked on a lot, so you know what we have. 0.14 walls and vaulted ceilings and a passiv slab 0.1. We are fully triple glazed but only 1.2 for the glazing (a lot of aluminum framed sliding doors). We also have triple glazed roof lights. Each bathroom has electrical UFH and heated towel rails (although we never use these). Two bathrooms on the 1st floor. And the ground floor is probably 2/3 of the total floor m2. MVHR of course and low ac/hr. We put in enough suitably positioned electrical points to be able to add supplementary heaters in the 1st floor bedrooms but have never had to fit these. Our heat loss calcs came to 6kW. We only heat during cheap rate, so a maximum of 6 hours into the UFH in the slab from a (max) 9kW ASHP but this is enough to heat the house for the rest of the day. Bedrooms are about 18C which for us is fine. Living space is 20.5 to 21.5. And when it's really hot, we use the ASHP to cool but that's only a few days a year. Having the sliding doors/rooflights open seems to keep things OK. So we're a big vote for not needing heat/cooling on the 1st floor. As for AC, it would have been a pain to fit and they aren't great to live with - draughts, noise etc. @Post and beam is your UFH in a screed, or in a passive slab like the MBC slabs?

Don't think it's a warranty issue tbh - but they really aren't needed - unless @Alan Ambrose would love to buy our surplus one from us 😉 Alan ? And probably my memory is failing me on the cable size - but glad to hear someone else finds the room round the back of the switches a pain....

Don't let your electrician slap in any old wire. I think ours made some assumption about the motors needing heavy duty cable, either that or he had an old reel in the back of the van to use up. Hallmark can give you the spec but from memory it's 1.5mm from memory. Fat cables at the back of the Somfy switches are a pain - there's not much room round the back of the switch in the box. Also, if you intend to use the Somfy switches, I have a Somfy weather station going spare - it was specced before we found a much smaller, neater anemometer. Although, even this could come out, as we've disabled the automatic lifting of the blinds in high winds. It only happened once in the middle of the night which could have startled anyone on the lane. We've been through much worse wind conditions since then and the blinds have been fine.

A while ago, on application, you could either connect a charger or and EV(by make and model). Now the interface asks for the make/model of the vehicle and doesn't allow for linking a charger even though you may not know the make/model of any vehicles that would use the charger, e.g. visitors, carers, children etc. You can still ask for them to link with a charger however, here's a page where you can do this (not sure if it still works of course) -> https://octopus.typeform.com/to/rK8at31n#account_number=xxxxx&email=xxxxx There was some discussion on the MyEnergi forum about which models of vehicle Octopus can connect with and someone on there suggested that if you wanted to go down the linking to a vehicle route, you simply chose a make/model that they couldn't connect with. I'll bet an AI can tell you which ones...

The suggestion was for after you've got the short grass you said you wanted somewhere up above. 😉

@Alan Ambrose We had ours installed over 3 years ago, so probably not worth comparing costs. We did look around for other suppliers but they either didn't do what we were looking for or were much more expensive. We didn't plan for maintenance.... But they've been in for a while now with no problems. I say no problems.... someone.... left one of the chairs on the patio under one of them and it wouldn't straighten by itself, so we got Hallmark out to fix it. They did explain how to rejig the tapes that do the up and downing by pushing buttons on the motors - although of course we've no idea now how to do that!! You can see the motors when the blinds are down by looking up into the housing. We didn't use cassettes but I did find some interesting lintels with cassettes built into them. Could probably still find these if you are interested. Ours are built into a slot above behind the timberwork for the cladding. You can see this from the photos on our architects web page -> https://lhc.net/projects/ashcroft-creating-a-low-energy-family-home/ If you zoom in to the photo with the chairs outside, you can see that the side channels were attached to stands that were screwed into the frame of the sliding doors. So they are proud of the sides of the opening. We are very pleased with them - they're great in the summer for reducing solar gain and from autumn to spring good at letting the solar gain in. Hallmark are only a small outfit but apart from a few niggles we were pleased with them. PS We used wired switches but in hindsight it might have been better to have a wireless system.

Maybe all cylinders - we've got a Newark that is pretty noisy..... I've always put it down to the coil being corrugated and trapping air - and we haven't got round to putting in anything to get rid of the air yet - next summers job.