Bramco

I've noticed that if the overflow connection is a corrugated pipe and it attaches almost horizontally into the plughole base, then you can get backflow from the sink into the overflow pipe connection with associated detritus which eventually starts to stink. The only way to fix it is to get under the sink, disconnect the overflow pipe and clean it out. A bucket underneath is a good idea as well as a mask.

It's been a while.... So.... I noticed an interesting post on the open energy monitor site from a guy who lives in a stone house in rural Scotland built in 1874. The answer from the professionals when he asked for quotes to replace his boiler was that there was no way he could have a heat pump -> https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/the-house-that-couldn-t-have-a-heat-pump/29921 He persevered, learnt a lot and now has a warm house heated by a heat pump. So it can be done but it requires first understanding the facts, then making sure that the heat pump is set up and controlled to meet the way the house behaves. @JohnMo @Nickfromwales @SimonD - the post is well worth a read.

On our pump controller, the pump only ran when there was enough heat in the header on the solar array. I'm guessing yours will also work this way. So in marginal conditions, it only runs intermittently. Using a narrower bore means that the hot water will actually get through to the tank. With 15mm or bigger, you can get the situation where a hot slug is pumped into the pipe but never reaches the tank. I've not checked but I'm guessing 10mm is also cheaper than 15mm. So probably also a better option if you are on a budget. EDIT Try this, it has good insulation as well as a cable for the temperature sensor. https://www.bes.co.uk/solarquip-twin-flex-insulated-solar-pipe-dn16-x-10m-21102/

If you use copper, use 10mm, it means there is less heated water in the hot pipe, so the heat gets to the coil in the tank quicker. we did this in a previous house and afaik, it's still running after 15 years... 😄

I tried to do something similar with our install but no one locally was interested in certifying things if they didn't do the full install. Good luck - and if you find someone, I'd be interested in getting in touch with them - we're south Notts, so not that far away.

Agree entirely - I could send ours through but everything changed - well not quite but a lot did, re position of lights and switches. Like @ProDave says, we went round with the contractor marking up the final position of switches sockets etc. Quite a lot stayed the same though, but this was mainly things like the position of the switches and controllers for the rooflights and external blinds and the kitchen electrics. You do need something though to get trades to quote from. I wouldn't think that changes in position of switches, light fittings etc. should matter but adding or deleting them should increase/decrease the bill. An electrician would need to know about appliances (ratings) and where they will be, so kitchen, as well as things like ASHP and MVHR. They need to spec a big enough CU with components. Use your floor plan and mark the expected position of switches, light fittings and sockets and get the specs for all the equipment like MVHR, ASHP, etc. and also the kitchen appliances.

Says who? As a local, it will be the most exciting thing to happen around here for years.... We've already eyeballed a bluff to the east overlooking the site as the best location to watch the demolition - champagne, canapes.... Although I do agree, cooling towers do have a majesty. There was a movement to keep one of them and use it as an exhibition space and climbing wall but I think that fell through.

Ha! I copied it from a plan I found on the Interweb for a kit you could buy! I searched a few days ago to see if I still had the pdf but couldn't find it. Should be pretty easy to create a plan from the photo I posted though. We used bits like below to fasten the panel clips to, you can probably see from the photo if you zoom in. Think we bought the panel clips from somewhere like Midsummer Solar - but there's probably plenty of options on ebay. Give me a shout if you want any more info. One of the advantages of key clamp for this is that most of the suppliers have a free cutting service, so it all turns up ready to put together. If you've never used them before, then it's best not to tighten things up too tight to start with, then adjust to get it all lined up properly and then tighten the screws up. Have fun.

Our key clamp order was about a grand including VAT 3 years ago. VAT should be reclaimable if the solar is part of the build - we had to get planning permission as it's in the Green Belt, so we got it back (iirc!). Ours is 12 panels. We ordered some key clamp stuff last year for another job - it was interesting that they were all stamped UAE - so all of that stuff could well be going up soon, or not even available.

We're out in the sticks but close enough to a 5G mast - Mozillion 5G unlimited data sim £19.99 in a 5G modem. Mozillion are on EE. Worth making sure you can't do this before going the Starlink route.

In true Blue Peter fashion - here's one we did earlier... Ours was all done with standard key clamp bits and some solar panel clamps. Can't remember who we used for the poles and clamps but we did work out how many of each length of pole we needed, so they were delivered ready to start construction. The poles in the earth are 1m long, whacked in by our builder for a flat pack of beer... EDIT - should have added that we set the panels at 45 degrees to maximise winter output rather than the 35 degrees that PVGIS suggested. The actual annual total for 45 degrees was only just under the PVGIS 'optimum' but output was shifted away from the summer towards the winter.

Batteries, so only pay 7p for electric... IOG.

Those look great - ours were the standard aluminum ones, so we needed something with a hole in it on the key clamp poles. When it comes to actually installing the panels, we made a couple of plywood jigs to support the panel in place. So a couple of pieces wider than the pole with a notch in and long enough for the top edge of the panel to rest on it. That way, you can lift the panel on, let it rest on the plywood while you fasten the brackets.

We used key clamp. No concrete, just whacked some 1m poles into the ground, leaving enough to fasten on to. But if you've got a concrete base, just use the base/wall mount flanges. To fasten the panels on, we created a couple of horizontals to give the angle we wanted and key clamp fasteners with a flange with 2 holes. The panel fasteners were standard solar fasteners - you might need longer bolts but it was pretty easy to find parts and put it all together.

Ours were cut into strips and we used tile edging strip along the top edge - this gives a great finish and easier to get a horizontal line. I say we - our tiler did it of course. Being able to cur them into strips means less wastage. and like other replies having a tile skirting means no issues with mopping.