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AshleyH

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  1. AshleyH
    Good evening, I'm after some guidance if possible on permitted developments for outbuilding, class E I believe. I am going to build a 5m x 4m wooden outbuilding 1m in from each side of my boundary fence line. The garden to my rear is around 1m higher than my garden with a retaining wall built on that back to support this and therefore the fence is 1.8m higher on top on the rear neighbours garden. Would the 2.5m high rule apply from point A on my photo or point B as the highest land adjacent to my ground is effectively point B with the rear garden and ground? Not that I want to build massively higher but id be interest at which point the 2.5m adjacent land would be taken from Thanks in advance. You can make out the original land an adjacent land behind the property into mine from the photos below before the retaining wall was built. Thanks.
  2. AshleyH
    Thanks, do you normally have to pay for this?
  3. AshleyH
    What is LPA please?
  4. AshleyH
    Thanks for you reply, is there a way of asking if this would be likely to be passed first? Who do you normally contact the local council? I would like to build an extra bedroom above the current lounge as a minimum. Also it would be nice to extend this first floor out to the current back wall and also I top. I’m not quite sure how it would look with the angled wall. Has anyone done this previously? Cheers Ash
  5. AshleyH
    Good evening guys, We have been thinking about extending our home on top of what is now our lounge and out the back. The only issue is the design and space we have to do it? I've attached some photos to show you what we mean. The wall would have to come at an angle parallel with the fence line? How close can you realistically go to the boundary fence line? Is it possible to build a two story extension at an angle like this? Has anyone seen it be done before? we were hoping to build on top of the lounge which is already there and also building out towards the back to align with the current back wall continuing with the two stories? I've attached the plans its quite a tight angle with the fence line? I have access both side of the house so its not a problem blocking this side off. Can the roof go over the fence line and wall up to the fence boundary? Would I need planning to build on top of the lounge and the two story out to the current back house line? I would like to keep a pitched roof if possible the same as the current any information would be awesome, thanks!! Ash.
  6. AshleyH
    This is the spec from the supplier for the insulation boards?
  7. AshleyH
    Got to be honest I don’t think the laid that first? Would the insulation board the pipes are run through do the same thing no? We did last winter when we left the set point constant, we’ll give it ago this winter see how we get on. I’ll keep an eye on how much gas usage we use going forward. Thanks for the info you’ve passed on it been great. I’ll keep you updated!
  8. AshleyH
    so basically the house was totally renovated, the concrete floor were left and they used insulation boards to run the UFH pipes in, tbh I don’t think they put any insulation underneath the boards? Not that I’m aware of anyway? Could be wrong? Then the floorboards, ply and finished floor. yes I remember them worry about head height so that’s a possibility! There’s no chance I can get the flooring up now to get insulation underneath the boards ?
  9. AshleyH
    Thanks I will give it a go! Maybe it just doesn’t feel warm enough on the floor? I think adjusting the balancing has definitely helped and for some reason a slower flow rate seemed to work better?! My supply temp is quite high, I hope this won’t effect the system too much!? Isit worth getting the self adjusting actuators would this save energy ontop of these settings?
  10. AshleyH
  11. AshleyH
    Thanks for the info, what’s your differential set to 0.5? Yeah I set them to this so it would be warm by 7/8 and 5/6 when we were home? Should I keep the overnight temp up overnight and throughout the say even when we aren’t here? I just don’t want to be wasting energy? Do you drop your overnight temp at all?
  12. AshleyH
    thanks for the info, I’ve attached the trends over the last week, baring in mind there are some sharp spikes where I have been playing around with it! Also I’ve attached the profile I’m using, we aren’t in the house during the days only in the evenings so I’ve set it to heat up as below? Would this be more energy efficient?
  13. AshleyH
    it was laid onto the concrete floor I believe but that was the Same throughout. I’m not sure what Thickness it was it was supplied with the kit. im not sure tbh, I thought the idea of the boards was to deflect the heat up? I reckon it could have something to do with the room which isn’t the warmest doesn’t have anything above it, all the other rooms have rooms above them? Possibly why the heat isn’t holding well? It’s still warm just not as warm as the others? I have found though a slower flow rate heats the room up better?
  14. AshleyH
    This is the ground floor, we renovated and used the thermo insulation board which the pipes are run in, ontop of that we laid floorboards throughout and played over the top for the tiles and wooden flooring.
  15. AshleyH
    Yeah it has that’s why I’m thinking it takes longer to heat up? The kitchen etc has floorboards ply and tiles?
  16. AshleyH
    So the room has two loops in it. I can monitor that, the max flow rate I can get on the two loops to that room is around 4 l/min is that ok? That wound fully out. To get all the rooms to warm up the quickest wouldnt I just wind all the flow rates out to max 4 l/min?
  17. AshleyH
    Ok im not sure if hes piped this off the ufh system though, so adjusting the outlet valve increases decreases the flow to the loops. ill have to double check.
  18. AshleyH
    Heatmiser neo stat v2, UH8 system, individual room wired thermostat's.
  19. AshleyH
    Im pretty sure they are 230, just to throw this into the mix, the plumber fitted a rad also down stairs with a separate electronic valve, this is wired off the hallway thermostatic so operates when this zone is called for heat, would this make a difference? I did read too much flow can be just as bad, I've wound the zone 2 and 3 all the way out for maximum flow, perhaps ill try throttling these back first. The installer did say going through 3 layers (floorboard, ply and the flooring) would reduce the heat but you'd think they'd be hotter than they are, the only other difference is the warm rooms hav tile flooring and the cooler room has laminate, this has underlay also?
  20. AshleyH
    Just having a read now, will the Salus auto balancing actuators work with the heatmiser ufh8?
  21. AshleyH
    Yes each room has its own thermostat. Only to test its not always set to 30'c. Ok do you need another system or does the actuator do it itself? there only trade prices on the link, any idea how much these would be? Cheers.
  22. AshleyH
    The other zones still seem to be heating up quicker!
  23. AshleyH
    No it’s the sitting room loop 2 and 3? It says there’s carpet there on the design but we went with wooden floor, also it’s the part of the house without anything built on top? I’ve wound all other loops low now and kept the sitting room loop 3 and 2 up high to see if it makes a difference?
  24. AshleyH
    Here are the pipe length and flows. 3033REV-3-Ashley-UFH-plans-Design.pdf
  25. AshleyH
    Brilliant thanks, this was with all zones online so I will try and adjust the zones which don’t have enough heat.
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