Al in nl

@RalphThat would be good...

Jilly, Thanks fwiw: I have a thermal camera, used a couple, checking houses. I am more after visual proof/confirmation. Or in places which IR cannot check, say behind material that makes IR difficult; or thermal bridge area, so the IR gives a coldness but whether its say missing insulation or a bridge i cannot be sure. In the case I have in mind, there is too much noise from outside for my liking, so I think gaps. The endoscopes I have seen used/tried out in semi realistic situation (a course years ago) gave an okay idea. Depending how how good scope light was and optics. For me putting a hole thru for the scope is a last resort, could mean going through an airtight membrane. And from outside puncturing weatherproofing layer. Neither i really want to do.

Hi all, I am would like to buy an endoscope/borescope. Rigid scope. Looking to push it behind boarding/walls to check blown in insulation. Anyone have any good experiences. Broader speaking what I currently want to use it for is: I want a very good idea of how good blown in insulation has been done (be that cavity wall, straw, hemp, cellulose, anything) . As far as I know now, building inspectors prefer henke-sass optics or glass optics similar but I am not willing to spend more than 300. Second hand is fine.

Hi all. I am wanting to repair a cavity wall which I am sure has Supafil blown in (its white fluffy and sure looks like it). After install, someone put a hole(~200x100mm ) in the wall just above the floor in the innerleaf to vent a gas fire. Can anyone suggest a means to repair this? prefereably with an eco material. I was thinking of opening the inner leaf up higher up, and pouring vermiculite down. over simple? Other info... I have not looked further up the wall with an Endoscoop yet. I have looked at the wall with infrared and can guess where insulation is missing. Not as accurate as I wish - I did not have time to make a big inside to outside temp difference (heating system now not connected to gas) There is a vent to outside but not opposite inner leaf hole. It is much further up wall. I will be next week filling the holes up. The solution for the missing cavity wall insulation can wait. thanks alex

My comments are based on the bricks being old ones, permeable. Pre ww2/ww1. Check out what I suggest and your plans on https://www.ubakus.com/en/. It gives a heads-up on moisture probs. Plus lots more. It's free after 6pm and weekends. Your concept works out moisture free. I would probably go another way. With battens i would plaster them to old wall Example. https://www.backtoearth.co.uk/product/wood-fibre-insulation-uneven-walls/ With the loose material, blown in, is good for blind spaces. Blow in from not just top of wall. Say halfway up as well, anywhere that gives good access for hose into space. Wood fibre or cellulose. 9mm board is okay with your depths. Won't bend much. I would not use a membrane between wall and insulation. I would just use one where you have the avcl, something like intello plus. The reason for my build up. you do not want air spaces between the layers. Water vapour may get to there and condense. Leading to issues. Blown in insulation may well push membrane right up against wall though. while you are at it, make all house Airtight. That will save lots of money. Plan this first, whole house. How it joins up and connects up. Also which side of house is exposed to weather? Should need more thought. Check the stud wall is deep enough for sockets if you need them. Fwiw. I suspect you can find someone who knows lime. Check Www.spab.org.uk. Or https://www.buildinglimesforum.org.uk/ If forest of Dean/Gloucester. Check https://www.carringtonlime.co.uk/ I managed to get someone who loved gypsum to plaster lots of clay. I suspect if you don't want a guantee lots will plaster on lime to learn Also re blown in stuff. If it's under pressure not much settling. Standard practice is to check to see if it settles with an inspection camera just after blowing in. A company that does not do that, do not use.

Hi, The void is not needed if you use capillary open insulation. Simon D +1 Such as, wood fibre stuck via lime to wall. Limecrete blocks with limecrete infill between block and wall. Or any light earth mix from wall to inner leaf. DIY work mainly. No damp open foil. Rely on a plaster layer for airtightness. Air will loop around the void. Rockwool needs the void. Gypsum plaster sucks up water, so needs a void. Gypsum plaster does allow water to pass through it but holds onto a lot. Hence all the mold you get with gypsum plaster board. Not recommend with solid walls. Your choice is not using existing wall to help keep house airtight and build a new airtight layer. Airtight means lower heating bills. Have you looked at where the dew point would form with your build up? Ubackus gives an idea of the drying time. If you switch over to the german language version of the website and have the browser do auto translate, you get help articles. Further, the drying times can be ignored if the build up is capillary open. Really its best to keep the build up capillary open So that any water can simply get out of wall as fast as possible. Most natural solutions deal with sound really well. But is money. PIR solution I would place direct on sandstone with a layer of render/something to even out airgaps. In US you'd spray foam it. But that will stick to the sandstone, very hard to remove, and generally not advised. Take your chances. As for outside, if it had a lime render on it, put a harled lime(or similar) render on it. Such a render gives a much greater surface area, dries much quicker. If your changing the roof, extend the eaves if possible, less water will hit wall. Have you read the SPAB books?

Thanks..all It's all terrace, each house its own flues. Yes we have asked the owner if can just remove it all. Not spoken to a structural engineer tho:)

Hi, Been asked to remove a chimney while renovating a house. Top floor (3rd floor) will be straightforward we think. But the owner does not want it removed from 1st floor, and does from ground floor. Chimney seems to be brick all way up. Circa 1900 town house. Any tips on ground floor?

Hi, I guess you understand that this is about surface area through which heat can escape. Thus a dome has very low surface area While a box is more. The t and l shapes ( think multiple boxes next to one another) is more. The greater the surface area the greater the volume of materials. And there is your cost driver. Complex forms can be done, but more materials and more cost. You could try the looking at curved roof to minimise surface area. Placement/size of windows, sun protection also are factors. The phpp spreadsheets prefer low surface areas - boxes, curves.