Dan_the_man

Good idea, something I will explore. I saw this and fell in love. It is only 1300 long but surely because its so deep it would be pretty comfortable to sit in? Also below a good idea for the shower curtain hung above, but I guess it would get dirty very easily.

A standard sized uk bath is 1700 x 700. I guess I could increase the length of the bath an extra 100mm at the expensive of the shower.

The photo I shared of a neighbours property has exactly the same issue with the toilet next to the bath. He is 6 foot 6 and seems to have no issues using the toilet. One thing to point out is that he is slim build. If the toilet was against two walls it would certainty be an issue I agree but having the low bath helps I feel. From research it seems, The space around the toilet should be at least 760mm, with at least 510mm in front. My space around the toilet falls short by 135mm. I do agree with you knee space is cramped.

No room to move any walls unfortunately. I am struggling to see where it would be cramped at. With the shower screens folded away there should be ample room. The toilet beside the bath is not so bad as your arms are higher than the bath.

This is a neighbours bathroom. They still have the tightness issue with the sink and toilet being so close to the bath. I have a slightly longer bathroom as I am making the cupboard for the gas smaller than theirs.

That seems like an excellent idea. I guess if I am placing my shower head centrally in the ceiling would the gap you have between the doors have not let splashes out still? I would only be able to make the door 650mm wide to allow it to fold against the wall, the tray is only 700mm deep. This would leave a gap of 350mm, what is your gap?

I have managed to squeeze a 1600 x 700mm bath and 1000 x 700mm shower side by side in this extremely small bathroom. I want the shower tray to be flush to the floor so was looking at a bettefloor shower tray. My main issue is I can not make this a wet room due to the proximity of the bathroom door which would get damaged by water splashing. To prevent water splashing when taking a shower I would have a glass panel over the bath and a bifold shower door. The shower door would rest along the back wall making the shower totally open allowing easier access to the sink. You can see the bottom two images are the type of door I am after however this particular door seems to need a bottom rail which is not what I want. I want the threshold between the shower tray and the floor to be seamless to allow your foot to not be impeded while standing at the sink. I understand there would be a small gap between the shower door and floor but I was thinking of fitting a rubber bottom to the glass which would seal the gap and I could slide with the door into the wall. Will my idea work?

I want to grow Hydrangea which is a climbing plant up my 6 metre party wall in my terrace house court yard. The terrace houses on my street were build in 1910. The house next door to me has Hydrangea growing directly up my shared party wall. However this has caused problems internally in my property. Damp is getting in because the red bricks are unable to breath due to the Hydrangea trapping the moisture in when it rains. I will probably have to ask them to remove the Hydrangea. I was wondering if there is anything I could attach to me and my neighbours party wall which would allow me to grow Hydrangea up it without causing damp issues in their property? Maybe building a secondary wall which would have a keyed in damp proof course to their wall? Many thanks

Currently the exposed brick wall is in a yard. I will not know about any sound issues until I build the extension. I did speak to a neighbour who has a similar setup and they did not complain about sound issues except for hearing plug sockets being turned on and off.

I am about to start on a yard in fill extension on the ground floor on a mid terrace house. On the ground floor I want to leave the party wall red brick exposed inside my kitchen/dinning area. The brick work of the wall is made from Belfast red brick and it is of solid wall construction. The wall has headers running through it every 3 bricks high and from these I assume the wall is approx. 250mm thick. On the neighbours side of the wall is their kitchen/dinning area and to reduce noise travelling between the two properties my quantity surveyor has suggested that I should fit sound insulation along the party wall and use brick slips to recreate the exposed red brick wall. I would like to know what other people in my situation would do? Would you go to the extra expense to fit sound insulation and then fit brick slips on top and accept at 100mm loss of space internally? Please see image of the proposed insulation below. One good thing is having the brick slips would create a flush join with the plastered pillar but I am losing access to the internal pipework which I would have to move up 90mm. Many thanks

Yes I had saw that. I guess my concern is if it ever breaks and needs replaced do you have to hire a crane.

Does anyone have any answers to the suggestion of putting the ASHP on the flat roof and my idea of having the ladder access through the landing window.

Will day to day running costs with the Hitachi Yutaki-M ASHP and Sunamp for hot water will be roughly the same as the Combi Gas boiler?

That solution sounds very appealing then. Thanks

Do you mean a shed to house the hot water tank , under floor manifolds etc? Would that be even practical. The only place I can fit a shed would be at the very bottom of the garden as marked on the first image.

Would that not be expensive to run, i.e. I want to run a bath surely its just like boiling a massive kettle? £10 to have a bath?

I am in Northern Ireland and there are only two MCS registered installers. The other one I have not contacted as they did not get good reviews. Thinking about access to the ASHP could I not allow access through the landing window. (I have put an arrow to show which window). So you would open the landing window then walk on the glass light well window to a ladder fixed to the bathroom wall?

There is a flat roof upstairs which the ASHP could be mounted on. I saw one other post on here where someone did that. The ASHP fitter refuses to fit it on the flat roof though.

Yes I have space under my stairs. This is a house for life so I will be living in it for the next 40 years at least. In your opinion will I have to rip out any Gas boiler I would be fitting within that 40 year time frame? My theory is yes I will have to rip it out and replace it with ASHP within my life time. So my thought was to get it over with now rather than worry about it down the line.

Thank you Conor, If I get the monoblock system will the hot water tank, buffer tank, pipe work, and underfloor heating manifolds all fit inside my utility room ok? please see the drawings. The drawings show a gas boiler which does fit ok. The utility room is 1500 wide.

I had wanted to fit a Gas boiler in a new house extension but now I want to fit an ASHP and I have briefly spoken to a MCS Certified ASHP installer about fitting an ASHP with UFH on the entire ground floor & DHW. The installer suggested installing a Hitachi Yutaki-S at the bottom of my garden which is roughly 18 metres away from my toilet/utility room where the pipework/hot water tank will be fitted. The installers chosen ASHP is of the split variety and I want to avoid a split system due to my bedroom being directly above the toilet/utility which might disturb my sleep with the noise generated from the internal compressor from the split ASHP. I would rather install a Hitachi Yutaki-M which is a monoblock version as it would take up less space internally in my house and would move the compressor noise outside away from my bedroom. I have read a few threads mentioning that monoblock systems can be installed over 20 metres from the hot water tank but the outside pipe work must be well insulated and buried. I have also emailed Hitachi directly with my below plans to see if they recommend fitting a monoblock ASHP 20 metres distance from the in house pipework/hot water tank. Here are my existing plans which have a gas boiler installation specified. I have shown where the ASHP and internal water tank will be located and the distance between them. I guess I have four main questions, 1) Is it possible to fit a monoblock in my scenario 2) If it is possible to fit monoblock system what info would it take to convince my installer to fit a monoblock system or will they not budge on the idea of a split system 3) Worse case scenario I have to go for the split system will the internals even fit in my small utility room. Please see below drawings to get an idea of the size and where the tank/pipe work would have to be placed. In these drawings I have a gas boiler installed beside the toilet which will no longer be the case. I have a washing machine plus tumble dryer but if I really needed space I could remove the tumble dryer and just use a retractable clothes horse to dry my clothes. 4) If I get split system is my space large enough to install sound insulation? Many thanks

Hi folks I would appreciate peoples thoughts on my upstairs bathroom layout. I will not be having bath taps but instead will buy a bath overflow filler. The bath will be 1700mm long 750mm wide. If I am laying in the bath facing the sink should I place the overflow filler on the opposite side? I have a cavity wall to allow me to fit the bath in and to make the vanity unit longer. I am restricted in the depth of the wall unit where the toilet is hung as I do not want to make the tall bathroom window narrower. Should I remove the cavity wall and make the bath 100mm longer and make up the gap from the stud wall on the opposite side even if it means I have to make the tall window 30mm narrower? What are peoples thoughts on my vanity unit? The sink pipe work would be hidden behind a sliding door on the left hand side. Directly next to have is open storage with a glass shelf. The issue I have is I need to find a sink with an off centre plug hole are these easy enough to find? The toilet shelf will be 790mm high so this means I will need a small wall hung frame. This frame would be short enough I assume. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/bauhaus-low-height-wall-hung-wc-support-frame?gclid=CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNU0knLBdTR9e53d9TeZRqZfqE84B5GL_DkzAsnrJ550v2TrFlzjDZfBoCTHgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Ignore the shower on this image as I will probably opt for an inbuilt shower to keep it clean. Should I use the extra space to stick the shower niche behind the shower instead of building an extra window for the shower niche? I could put the shower controls next to the window. How the vanity unit interacts with the bath is crucial. I have tried my best to make it so that water can't touch the vanity unit but maybe tiles laid on wood looks messy? Many thanks for your thoughts.

The laundry is in the downstairs toilet. I plan to put the toilet lid down and use that as a set down for the laundry basket. I am in discussions with the architect about moving the toilet back to the stud wall if I can make room what with the pocket door and wall hung cistern. This would make the laundry/downstairs toilet 1400mm wide which I feel is sufficient, the toilet would have a front projection of 930mm which is more than enough. The shelves will just be industrial style pipe work. The software is sketchup.

Thank you Mr Punter. There can be no accusations that I have do not enough space around the island now. I have cleverly eaten into the empty area on the dining and living side to make room around the island.

Hi, I have plans for a renovation of my terrace house. I actually also have a front living room with a bay window but I have not included it in these plans. I would appreciate peoples thoughts on my design and layout. My only concern is that the living area is quite cramped but I must repeat that I have a second bigger living room at the front of the house so maybe this mitigates this somewhat. The downstairs toilet will house the gas boiler and an integrated washing machine & dryer stacked on top of each other. I have the complete kitchen on two sides with the cabinet against the brick wall not critical to the kitchen triangle. My only flaw with the kitchen is that I wanted a floor to ceiling food larder unit but have had to settle to splitting up the dry food storage. I am using the left set of drawers on the island for the majority of my dried food, I will use one of the overhead cupboards for tinned food storage and the prep cabinet next to the sink cabinet to store fruits and vegetables. I could use one of the floor to ceiling cabinets for bulk storage of food. I also do not like how I have had to place the fridge/freezer and oven beside each other but I believe modern appliances are insulated enough to not effect the operation of the fridge/freezer too much. Top view Side view 1 Side view 2 Back view Front view