AndrewR

I'm restoring an old cottage in Scotland. It is off grid. We've been living in a caravan on site for a few years and have an off-grid solar PV system with DC but also a small inverter for 240V. I'm just wiring up the cottage now, in readiness for moving the electrics over. I've done the DC, but I would like some advice please on the regulations regarding the siting of a domestic 240V fuse box or breaker. We have 240V 13A sockets in the caravan and will have them in the cottage. Their power will come through an MCB near the battery, then via an inverter. All there will be in the cottage is one ring circuit of 240V. I would like to know please whether there needs to be a separate breaker in the cottage. Specifically, what do wiring regulations say about siting of fuses? Can they be external or must they be inside the dwelling? Thanks, Andrew

Thanks, I've looked at the mono-pitch ridge tiles. As with my reply to Peter, how are these affixed to the fascia board? They'll be cemented to the tiles on the roof, but will I have to drill holes in them to screw them to the fascia? Andrew

Thanks Peter, The back edge is not abutting a wall - the structure is free standing. To use a strip of lead on the top edge as you describe, how would the lead be fixed? Would it be nailed to the fascia?

Can someone please give advice to an amateur roofer? I want to put a slate covering on a free-standing mono-pitch pent roof over a wood store. I want to use slate because I want it to be in keeping with the roof of an adjacent Victorian cottage but I also want to practice my slating on a small area. I've never seen any pictures of a slate covering on a pent shed roof. What I can't figure out is how (whether it is possible?) to protect the top of what would be the 'ridge'. There won't be a ridge of course, and so no ridge tiles to protect the top slates from wind lift and water ingress. I thought about using clay ridge tiles and laying them on their side, with one side vertical, drilled and screwed to the fascia board, but this might look silly. If it can't be done I'm thinking about making in asymmetric ridged roof with a very short pitch on one side to allow me to have a proper ridge. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks. Andrew

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I should have mentioned, I'm off-grid, and I've only got a 500W inverter. So, a high power table saw is not an option. That is why I was looking at the Makitas as I can charge their Li-on batteries with my system. Andrew

I'm looking to buy my first circular saw. Can someone advise a non-joiner please? I want the saw because I'm building a picket fence, and due to the shortage of timber I couldn't get any 3" wide pales. So, I bought some 150mm x 4800mm planks and intend to cut them down the length of the plank. From my understanding, I need a rip saw blade. I've looked at Makita cordless tools but I can't find specifications on the blades that they come with. I've also searched Screwfix and the only rip saw blades that they have are described as "coarse ripping and cross cut": https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/circular-saw-blades/cat5990012#category=cat5990012&suitablecuttingapplication=wood&typeofcut=coarse_ripping___cross_cut So, I don't know whether these Screwfix blades are the right thing for the job. Am I just not looking in the right place? Is there a special rip saw blade for circular saws? Thanks for any advice. Andrew

Thanks for the replies, Okay, my architect put plans in and after a bit of liaison between he and the respective departments, I was granted approval by Planning and Building Regulations to go ahead with the restoration (it is a change of use). So, the respondents on here are saying (with regard to Building Regulations) that I now 'have a Building Warrant'. Okay. What I meant, and initially said, was the completion certificate that complies with everything in the Building Regs., i.e. something that is given to me at the end of the build after it has been inspected. Can someone tell me whether this...finalisation document... is required to get VAT refunded at the end of the build? On the refund form does one have to submit it to get the refund? A bit more background: I will comply with all the planning requirements, but not the requirement of building regulations. I am aware that I may not be able to sell the house afterwards. I don't care about this. I understand that I can request an amendment, but isn't there a fee to pay for this? Some of the things that the architect proposed are impossible to attain, due to the internal dimension of the building, hence my question. Andrew

When claiming back the VAT (on my Scottish DIY build), can someone tell me whether the Building Warrant is needed before the Tax Office will issue the money? Question 16 on the form asks about the Building Regulations Completion Certificate, but it gives a "yes" or "no" option, and goes on to say that if it isn't provided then 'what will I be providing instead?'. It is possible that I will not get a Building Warrant because some of the architect's specifications are impossible to meet and/or impractical. Thanks, Andrew

Is there a plumber (in Scotland) who can give me some advice please? In my field there is an animal's drinking trough with a fill level which is maintained by a ballcock. I want to turn off the water supply to this trough. I have found what I believe to be the stop tap, adjacent to the trough, but it is not like anything that I have ever seen before (photograph attached). This 'stop tap' was 1ft below ground at the base of a vertical piece of clay pipe with an access cover, thus I assume that it must be the stop top. I can't turn it however, so I've cleaned it up and soaked it in plusgas. I'll try again at it tomorrow. Is this type of stop tap familiar to anyone and if so how easy is it to free? The top section appears to be all one solid piece of brass with screw threads fixing this to the pipe base. Is this the way to turn the valve, by rotating all the whole top section in its thread? Advice appreciated.

I am making an application for a new mains potable water connection with Scottish Water. It is for a small one bedroom cottage. Scottish Water are asking me whether I want a "connection size of 25mm or 32mm or higher". They go on to say (typically) "if you are unsure, ask your contractor". Now, apart from the question of "which contractor?" - groundworker maybe? Can someone tell me the pros and cons of choosing one size over the other? Is there perhaps an extra cost (to their already ridiculous fee of £1200 mostly for the administration work involved) to choosing the larger bore? I assume that the smaller diameter will increase tap outlet velocity, or will it reduce reduce tap pressure? Thanks, Andrew

Thanks everyone. Sorry for labouring the point, but I understand now. Andrew

On the VAT Refunds for DIY Conversions form (https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/828048/VAT431C_form_and_notes__1_.pdf) it states on page 16 that solar panels incorporated into the building can be claimed for, if you are a DIY builder. Therefore on goods I purchase and install they are eligible. Are you saying therefore that the supplier has to charge VAT at 20% and I claim 15% of this back (since the project is reduce rated at 5%)? What confuses me is when the claim form guidance states that VAT must by applied by the seller at the correct rate otherwise it cannot be reclaimed: https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/how-to-claim Andrew

Thanks. Can you please direct me to where this is explicitly stated by the act? Andrew

Supply only.

Has anyone ever tried (and been successful) with getting renewable energy suppliers to charge 5% VAT? It seems quite clear that this is included in Notice 708, i.e. Section 7.6 - "You can also reduce rate works within the immediate site of the premises being converted that are in connection with the: means of providing water, power, heat or access" I've just tried to buy some solar panels and asked for 5% VAT, applied but the seller didn't think it could be done. They had never been asked this before, and after some searching they responded with reference to another piece of guidance: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-on-energy-saving-materials-and-heating-equipment-notice-7086#para2-15 The hyperlink quoted above appears to me to only be applicable to existing buidlings whereas Notice 708 is for Construction and Conversion, see section 2.8. Am I correct? If I am, and if anyone knows of a solar panel supplier who has the guts to apply this VAT reduction, would you please advise here? Thanks, Andrew

For anyone who may come across this topic while searching for information on how to open or construct up a shallow well, the answers are contained in the following (absolutely excellent) book: Hand Dug Wells - and their construction, by S.B. Watt and W.E. Wood, ITDG Publishing. Some of the content from this book is summarised here: http://www.clean-water-for-laymen.com/spring-development.html What I would also recommend is NOT to buy the book: Choosing Ecological Water Supply and Treatment by Judith Thornton. It is very weak on practical information (and the author overuses the word 'whilst').

Thanks, that's great. Interesting too. Andrew

I'm building a block construction tool store on my site prior to the house build. I've laid the trench foundations and first course of blocks (for the shed). For the door opening, can someone tell me whether it is advisable to install a temporary wooden frame? I have seen this done as I've been walking past building sites, but I can find no information on the web or in books about doing it. I assume that this helps to keep the walls plumb, but I can do this with a spirit level. Maybe it is to give some temporary support to the edges while the mortar is setting? So, can someone please advise as to the benefits of putting in a temporary frame? Thanks, Andrew

The contractor changed his invoice and has charged VAT at 5%. By my interpretation of Notice 708, it is clear that a reduced VAT rating for groundworks (for drainage, power, waste, etc) should be applied. Andrew

Thanks. So do you agree that according to Notice 708 the groundwork for drainage done by a contractor (in this case for the percolation test) should be rated at 5%?

Thanks again for the advice on VAT in general. In my original post I mentioned the percolation test. The groundwork contractor charged VAT at 20% and when I queried this he asked for an exemption certificate. I only started looking into this whole new aspect of my self build yesterday. I read the HMRC 'VAT refunds for DIY housebuilders claim form and guidance notes'. These referred to me being able to claim back VAT at the end of the build, which people here have kindly clarified. What they also mention is that if the contractor has not charged VAT at the correct rate then I can only claim back the correct rate. By this I understand it refers to some works which have a 5% VAT rating as opposed to the 20% rating. It also recommends caution and refers people to Notice 708. Now, I have looked at Notice 708 and section 7 appears to apply. It states that 5% VAT should be applied, since it includes: "...works within the immediate site of the premises being converted that are in connection with the: means of providing water, power, heat or access means of providing drainage or security provision of means of waste disposal" So, can someone please advise on whether I am interpreting this correctly? Andrew

Thanks both of you. So Temp, regarding your last sentence, why do I ask for quotes to show zero VAT? Are you suggesting that I shouldn't pay VAT on some things at point of purchase? Or is it merely that I pay the VAT at point of purchase but the invoice shows what VAT I have paid so that I have it recorded for my subsequent VAT claim at the end of the build? So I think the consensus is that the percolation test is not VAT reclaimable? Andrew

Thanks, I queried the VAT added to the percolation test invoice with groundwork contractor. He said that I need to supply him with "the exemption form". I've spent a long time looking into this, and seemingly made worse by govt websites, when I try to find answers to one question, multiple new questions arise. Two questions: 1. How does one manage all this information about VAT? Are their accountants who are employed to do it, or is it just one more additional thing to fall on the self builder's shoulders? 2. Can someone please tell me what this "exemption form" is and where I get it from? The groundwork contractor is like the govt website: I ask him one question and he comes back with another question all with as few sentences as possible and with as few words as possible in each sentence. Andrew

I am just starting out on restoring an old croft house in the Highlands and by chance I found out that I appear to be able to claim back VAT. I am doing most of the work myself. It appears from this forum that this is a big topic, and I apologise if the following are simple questions or have been answered before. I have tried to search for a while through the posts. Can someone help me answer the following: 1. Can VAT be reclaimed for the percolation test? 2. At what point do I claim? The government form states that it must be 'within 3 months of the building works being completed, and you can only submit once'. So, does this mean at the end of ALL building works, i.e. when the whole house is done and is habitable, or does it mean each specific component of the building work, i.e. the percolation test? 3. My cottage is derelict and has not been used as a dwelling or other building for as long as locals can remember. It is not currently registered with the local authority for Council tax, and I am having to put in a 'change of use' application. However, I see that I need to provide evidence that it is not been inhabited for at least ten years, but how do I prove this? Do I have to ask the council to write me a letter to say that they have no records of the building, and if so are they willing to do this? 4. I see that there is a 3 month deadline for submissions, and that I need to send 'proof that the building work is finished'. As above, what proof do I need and where do I obtain it? Thanks, Andrew

I contacted what the internet says is the UK office for Evercrete. Seemingly it is a different company now as Evercrete went bankrupt five years ago. So, thanks for the advice on the postal sample process, but can you direct me to a lab that will analyse the sample for £25 please?