drliamski
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Posts
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Everything posted by drliamski
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Revieved all the parts so will attempt this tomo. Thought you would like to see the results of checking the magnaclean filter Not been done in a while!
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Assessing the quality of a laid tile floor
drliamski replied to Fallingditch's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
Answer from BS5385 Pt1 2009: "7.1.9.2 Across jointsThere should be no appreciable difference in level across joints(commonly called “lipping”) and the maximum deviation betweentile surfaces either side of a joint, including movement joints, shouldbe as follows.a) Joints less than 6 mm wide, 1 mm.b) Joints 6 mm or more wide, 2 mm." -
Assessing the quality of a laid tile floor
drliamski replied to Fallingditch's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
From the US but still possibly useful https://ctasc.com/expert-answers/what-is-the-acceptable-tile-grout-joint-width-and-tile-lippage-for-tiles-with-one-edge-larger-than-15-inches/ -
Assessing the quality of a laid tile floor
drliamski replied to Fallingditch's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
Porcelain tile size variations Porcelain tiles are a slightly different story. The manufacture of porcelain tiles starts out with a combination of various materials in dust that are pressed into a mold under high pressure then fired in kilns. The finished product is a tile in the shape of the mould. Porcelain tiles are often sold straight from the mold and have a slightly angled edge, the same shape as the mould - known as a natural edge or moulded edge. The tolerance to European standards on these kinds of tiles is up to 3mm. They don’t normally vary this much but these are the tolerances that are quoted. As such, a joint width of 3-5mm is recommended for natural edged porcelain. Porcelain also comes rectified like natural stone. This is where the tiles are processed through machines that trim the edges off the tiles leaving a sharp, square rectified edge. The tolerance on the machines cutting these edges is very small indeed, making each tile practically the exact same size as the next one. As with rectified natural stone tiles, there is always a tolerance but that should be more like 0.2mm. Even with rectified porcelain tiles, it’s not recommended to install these with less than a 2mm grout joint as discussed above. Tile thickness variations. Natural stone tiles will often vary in thickness as well. +/-1mm is acceptable and any decent tiler will be able to take this into account by adjusting the tile in the bed of adhesive to suit. If a tiler complains about the varying thicknesses of tiles that are within this tolerance, then they are probably trying to deflect attention away from the fact the tiles they have laid aren’t all flush with each other and you have what is known as "lippage". Lippage is only ever down to poor installation and nothing else. From https://www.refin-ceramic-tiles.com/porcelain-tiles/installation-advice/ -
I think it was from the bag over the prv as definitely had hole in and the junction into boiler is on the left of the boiler, damp was on the right underneath where the test bag was. I will check the PRV connection though.
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OK good advice, thanks. The attic has been converted to bedroom with ensuite. They traverse the attic but I think they just end in the office cupboard on the 1st floor. when the filling loop was opened all the water ended up in aforementioned cupboard. Its probably left over from the previous CH system as there was also an old tank up there which I moved. Probably wont move guage to office as going to basement is not a prob (workshop not a dungeon) and keen to box in pipework in the office properly. Moving the ev sounds like a job for a warmer time of year. Should I use leak sealant if the pressure is still dropping or move ev first?
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There was a lot, I turned the silver hose tap. it filled a cupboard and pissed out onto the floor below through the ceiling! Pretty sure the water came from the sheared off pipes. I did not touch the red valve under the pressure guage of the EV. Loads of water. LOADS
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Hi nick, you assume correctly, temp set to 75 deg C atm @Fallingditch Do you have details of the installer?
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So the water temp in h Update, So I thought I would experiment and turn on the valve to the red EV in the loft, as the pipes looked new and appear to run into the CH loop. I was wrong. Now the cupboard in the office below is a little damp and the rest of the water is in the kitchen and being soaked up by the books and now towels. Luckily I didnt put my desktop pc inside a few weeks ago. Could have been a much more expensive mistake. See attached for pictures of non capped off pipes that run from old EV into where old hot water tank used to be. There are also a couple of pictures of the pipework in the loft next to the EV.
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So i will go test the ev in the boiler, think there are two though, one in the "layered storage tank". Should I test this one as well? Also in the loft there is a further EV. It is plumbed into the existing CH loop. Np pressure atm. Should I pump to 1 bar? Update, tested the EV in boiler, was no pressure, topped up to approx 1 bar and when ttrying to check with guage let air and a few droplets of water came out. Is any a bad sign? Expansion vessel.pdf
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So topped up the boiler as after running for the morning was below minimum. This was yesterday. Nothing into bag by the evening. Then when I got home from work checked it and bag contained 30ml of water, however there must be a pinhole as some water on floor of basement. Should I keep monitoring? Water on floor
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Somewhat Hijacked ? So having tried to bag the overflow, I discovered that it is plumbed into the soil pipe. Pumped using a sauermann. Shall I disconnect inside the clear pipe before it leaves basement and gauge PRV? See attached images L (non welsh speaker)
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All relatively new as are all Honeywell TRV. Dont know how new. Some of the lockshields are definitely old!
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That is what I feared, two plumbers have suggested powerflushing but I am not convinced, should be relatively easy to get access to flow and return in cupboard next door. Yes there is a magnaclean filter. I have not checked it though. I will seal bag well! Thanks for the welcome! L
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Hi all, I am the present occupier! Thanks for your help Nick + Alexphd1 Boiler is a Vaillant ecoTEC plus 937. Afaik there has not been instance of overpressurising it and forcing PRV to relieve pressure, more of a slow drop over a few weeks until low pressure fault. I will test the prv valve using a bag over outlet. Leak has been there since before the new boiler fitted. We have an issue with one bathroom rad (1st floor) not warming up. I have removed valves and no hw or return eitherside of TRV or lock? Feed + return pipes are dry. Think there is a possible blockage specifically on this loop?
