Mulberry View

Any advocates of Rainwater Harvesting on here? I know some see it as questionable from an ROI standpoint, but for us it's not just that we're interested in. The idea of using rainwater to flush the toilets, to reduce limescale (we're in a very hard water area) is of interest. We might also like to use it for the washing machine. But being able to water the garden, specifically the lawn, in a guilt free way is the main driver for us. We would also benefit from some eco-friendly water input as our water consumption data is a little over what was specified in planning (105 litres per person, per day). But what size tank should we look at? We've got about 150sqm of roof space roughly 50/50 over 2 roofs. At the moment, only one roof is designed to go to a Rainwater tank, with the other is going to a normal soakaway. I'm wondering if we should harvest it all, maybe with a larger tank, or perhaps with a second tank? (one close to the house, one for the garden/car washing etc.) Any help is appreciated.

Oh yes, I see. That's the 'Plus' product. I've sent them my plans, they're going to refer me to a distributor that can quote on the beams and their product.

I've just spoken with Springvale about Beamshield and the standout disadvantage is the vulnerability of the product while completing the onward work. They ideally want the screed down as soon as possible, which is, of course, tricky if UFH is required (it is for us). The 'workaround' appears to be putting down a protective plywood layer (££££) until we're ready to get the UFH in and screeded. So this will have to be factored into the cost. I think I've understood correctly that the Beamshield system deals with the whole subfloor structure from inbetween the concrete beam up to the underneath of the screed, thus accounting for the 150mm 'Celotex' layer.

@Russell griffithsWhat were your beam spans like? I gather 5m spans are at the limit? Our longest span appears to be 3.7m, so perhaps the Architect has already accounted for the known problems. I do find it strange that the Architect, who is highly Eco-minded, hasn't mentioned the EPS route though.

That's interesting. So an EPS type infill instead of the concrete blocks? What's the downside?!

We're in the mindset with the Pozi joists too as I'd heard they have a tendency to creak etc and that's one thing I literally cannot comprehend. Good advice, thanks for that. I'd have never expected the B&B to create a 'bouncy' floor, so I'll certainly be asking questions. We know ours is a challenging plot, the main access can only take a 4-wheel chassis, so a Minimix at best. We've had a 10-tonne 4-wheel tipper up here, but that's pretty tight. The price we're paying for what was essentially a free but so lovely 0.6 acre plot. So @Russell griffiths, can you enlighten me on how the B&B is installed please? Is it before the first wall pour?

Wait... What? Pumped concrete for ICF? Dang, I missed that one. (a light-hearted joke by the way) I'm fully aware of the need for pumped concrete and have a 'workaround', but it is just that and not something I can overuse. We have to essentially deliver the concrete into the plot entirely from privately-owned land, so it's a great risk. I'll have permission, but I cannot take the pi** and risk them simply 'shutting the door' when I'm halfway through a wall-pour.

Oh, whyso? It's a tricky site to get wet Concrete into, that might be the reason for limiting the need for it?

It does say 'minimum', the Architect seems to ask for 225mm, is this more 'normal'?

We've just received our Tech/Structural Pack and are trying to get our heads around it. We have a 600x300 Strip Foundation, 50mm Oversite Concrete, 150mm Void, then Beam & Block. I can't easily see how the B&B interacts with the Nudura and at what point the B&B is installed in relation to the blocks/wall concrete?

Thanks for your help everyone. It's a new build and one where we're aiming for a fabric first approach. We don't have a wild budget, around £1800/m2 (I'll speak of that on a separate topic as that is a confusing subject in its own right!). This is to be a Nudura ICF build and one we intend to be our forever home. We do absolutely see the logic of Alu-Clad and I accept the point about the minimal sight-lines. You're right @Russell griffiths, we are probably getting a bit caught up in it all. We were won over by Ultralines Sliding Doors on display at the Self-Build Centre in Swindon. So, anyone got anything to add about Lumis Windows? Any other good quality Alu-Clad systems to look at? We've had quotes from Norrsken and IdealCombi already.

We're just starting to drill down on Window suppliers. Our Architect spec'd Alu-Clad, but we're still divided on the subject. We have Reynaers standing out at our favourite Aluminium solution, their SL68 profile and a Hi-Finity Sliding Door for our Kitchen/Dining Room, they while proposal meets a U-Value of 1.1 as an average, though some individual items are as much as 1.5. We have Lumis as an Alu-Clad option, with Oak internally. We will probably still have the Hi-Finity Sliding Door with this option as the sight-lines are important in that position. We are awaiting costs and U-Values, but we know it'll be a little more expensive than the Reyaners quote. Anyone got anything to say about either of these? We can find plenty about Reynaers, but not much about Lumis...

We were strongly considering Velfac, but we tripped over this... ...followed by this... https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/velfac.co.uk That's enough for me, Velfac are off the table.

Though it's a very low mileage truck (45k), I knew the bed was a bit ropey when I bought it. I had hoped it'd get me through the build. The corners have turned up pretty badly....

Yeah, it's so worn it's hard to tell what it was! We're just starting our build, this truck will probably carry loose aggregates that will get shovelled off, you think I'd be better with Marine Ply and just replace it again when I'm done with it? Will the Phenolic damage easily with the shovels?

My 2010 Renault Master needs a new floor in the pickup bed... Any suggestions on what I can re-line it with? I understand Phenolic Resin Birch Plywood is the 'right' stuff, same principle as a trailer, but I cannot easily find it in a size that would allow me to do this in one piece. Should I worry about having joins? The measurement is 3015x1855mm, so doesn't suit 8x4 sheets very well at all. Any other ideas?

So. here's the vision... ...and here's the current situation from the same position on the plot... We have already completed around 150 metres of service trenching, to bring all services into the plot and onwardly connected to our static caravan. We are awaiting the final stage Technical pack from our Architect in conjunction with the Structural Engineers output. I'm starting to think we can tackle some or even all of the groundworks ourselves. As an intermediate DIY'er, able to read plans and operate a digger at a novice/intermediate level, what can I reasonably take on here? What's the process of readying this plot for the arrival of concrete for foundations? Is removal of the topsoil from the build area a logical starting point? Then get a setting out surveyor to mark out the footprint? Or leave it all to a groundworks company?

Just spoken with our planning officer, there isn't really anything for us to do at this stage. All seems pretty chilled. It seems that the next ones for us to think about are the ones concerning Surface Water Drainage and Landscape replacement planting. Both of which need to be discharged before we progress past slab level and that is fine by us.

We plan to implement as many ecological enhancements as we can. So yes, I'll look at Swift boxes. I think they can be installed into the masonry of the building? Though I'd have to check if they can be installed in this way with ICF.

We did have an Ecological Assessment and it is the recommendations in there that we must implement. Not worried about any of them in all honesty. It's installing a Bat Box, an Owl Box and Three Bird Boxes. They also want pollinator friendly planting and log piles. All of which we are happy to include at the appropriate time, the condition does not specify when this should take place, so we assume it'll be during the landscaping process. I think I'll pop a call in to the planning officer, who knows, she might be helpful!

We have a list of seemingly basic Planning Conditions, we opted to deal with the discharge of these conditions ourselves, they are roughly as follows - 1. Must commence within 3 years - We have already returned our commencement notice (and done all the CIL paperwork) 2. Shall be carried out in accordance with the submitted plans 3. Prior to first occupation, shall be laid out, levelled and surfaced for car parking/turning 4. No development works other than those for foundations until the means of surface water drainage have been agreed 5. Sewage Treatment Plant details agreed 6. Development shall be undertaken in accordance with Arboricultural Impact Assessment 7. All tree protection measures to be in place 8. No work above slab level until landscape replacement planting plan agreed 9. Ecological enhancements carried out 10 Design to consume no more than 105 litres per person/day. I can't see there's much to do before we start? We know the answers for some, some we can't know yet. We know we have to get tree protection measures in, most already are. Additionally, we have a round of design amendments to put in, should we get the existing conditions that need discharging dealt with first? Our amendments are VERY unlikely to be rejected and are unlikely to negatively impact the conditions. We are going to connect to mains drainage now, so #5 will be removed I guess?

I feel like I'm stuck in the 'middle ground'. I am conscious that we need to finalise the finer details before we instruct the full tech drawings to avoid costly changes later, but not sure how far we should be going with that and how much we can deal with as it arises. We have a slightly awkward relationship with our Architect, we're not totally aligned in our methods. It transpires that she's more used to full managed builds, we're at the other end of the spectrum. Hence we're rather fumbling our way through this. Now we're looking to have avoided a Winter 'kick off', I want to really make the most of that and not waste any more time.

We've just had our initial Tech Drawing package from our Architect. Our understanding is that this should enable us to engage primary suppliers and provide a window of opportunity to tweak elements of the design according to specific systems before the final Technical package is supplied and a full Building Regs application is put forward. So, with this in mind, what should we be considering at this stage? We're engaging with ICF Suppliers (though Nudura are very likely), Window/Door companies, Metal Roofing. We're also expecting output from our Structural Engineer soon, so I guess we can make progress with Pozi Joists, Foundation design, Concrete requirements etc. Anything else we should be thinking about at this stage? Very keen to move forward in earnest in the Spring, but time is slipping away. As keen as I am to get cracking with the physical stuff, I feel as though I'm procrastinating a little.

Any CGT experts in these parts? A friend of mine is in the RAF. They own a house, but he took a posting to another base about 2 years ago, where they've been living in subsidised RAF accommodation. Their house has been rented since, the same tenant has been there from the start. The tenant is now interested in buying the house. My friend would like to sell the house to the tenant, but they do not need to buy anything yet as they are still in RAF digs and are likely to be for the forseeable. Are they likely to have to pay CGT if they sell and do not buy another property? From what I read, it's the fact that the house has been rented that puts mud in the water. They'd ideally like to bank the money and look out for a building plot at their own pace.

No, this is permanent kiosk. It's all staying here. It's about 40 metres to the plant room for the planned house and 45 metres to the caravan (which of course is only temporary). The kiosk was positioned 35 metres from the pole, being the furthest it could go without needing a 'mains extension' and lots of extra cost apparently. I already plan a TT earth rod at the caravan, which will be within about 3 feet of the CU. As I said earlier, the SWA will be terminated via a gland to a plastic junction box just underneath the caravan CU, so as to isolate the earth. So, back to my original point, can the SWA for the caravan supply be earthed to the PME supplied at the head? In the longer term, more of a plan will be created for what will be connected there and if an earth rod is needed at the kiosk, then so be it. In fact, if I'm better to install an earth rod now, then I will, it's not as though it's very hard, is it? As a further point, the 2 meter boards that are fitted into the kiosk were supplied by UKPN. They are fire retardant chipboard and have been spaced using spacers they provided. I now want to add a further boarded area to fill the space in to the right, but my local leccy wholesaler told me that I'm not allowed to space the boards off any more and that they need to be direct onto the brickwork? Any intel on this? It'll obviously make the install a bit of a shyte show.