Mulberry View

I'm still getting on with these internal walls and am on with this bit this week... How to construct the little bit that the arrow is pointing at? It's 100x100. Do I build the mains sections in block, then the lintel and the 100x100 bit out of timber? It feels like a bit of a mish-mash combining block and timber framing. Or is there a way to build that little 100mm section to allow the use of a normal concrete lintel over the door? If you lovely peeps can help with this, I'll post some pics of my blockwork so far, but be nice, it's my first time and I used medium-dense concrete blocks, which, as it turns out, are a bit scruffy.

Just the two courses. While I'm here. I have two solid walls that align with a first floor Posi (no openings in either), should I pack the gap between the top of the blocks and the Posi to add strength to the floor? If so, is any protection needed between the joist and the mortar?

So not this then?

Ah, perhaps I can. I'll check. You think its definitely strong enough @Iceverge?

I'm still at it with these internal walls, I'll post some pics when I get a minute. But what lintels for the internal doorways now that I'm using medium-dense concrete blocks? My merchant has suggested the right-angled external ones like this...

It's really just re-consolidating the wall and floor build-up now that I have made some insulation/performance changes, to make sure everything works and I'd also like to get deeper into air-tightness detailing, but again beyond what my Architect did and beyond my knowledge. We also have a couple of relatively minor design matters that need reconsidering, but are beyond my own ability.

That's what I thought regarding contracts. I've never even considered it, but now we're in dispute all people seem to be saying is 'what is your form of contract?' and 'what were the T's & C's?' We aren't water-tight yet, we are close to confirming the window order, but the roof fiasco has definitely scuppered us pretty badly.

Whilst our battle to resolve our Zinc Roof problem rumbles on, I want to try to understand how we get our project on track as it feels slightly off the rails. Keep in mind we are actual self-builders, mostly building it ourselves, I am the main contractor. We did have an Architect on board, but now estranged from the project. We have plans in hand to RIBA Stage 4a (Building Regs Plans). We have managed to get most of the structural shell up and services in without needing any trades or more detailed plans, but do we need to onboard another Architect to take our plans forward to a more technical level or is it sufficient to address elements as needed as we progress with the project? Or do people manage to build with the level of plans we have? I am already trying to improve the spec where I can, so things are changing and certainly need the window detailing to be properly considered. I have a conversation ongoing with another Architect about taking the project over to fill in the blanks, but I don't want to go too far and waste money. With our Zinc roof, we obtained 3 quotes, decided on which we preferred and instructed by email. People speak of contracts etc, what is the normal process of bringing a trade in? Something different to what we did? Should we be drawing up some sort of contract each time we need a trade? Or is email instruction sufficient as a contract? I would be grateful for some other input on this, I just want to get the place built, but am plagued on a daily basis about whether we're just winging it too much and procrastination is definitely causing delays.

Aaaah, yes of course. Nice one, you've been a great help.

That's all very helpful, but why 2 courses of bricks at the bottom and 1 at the top if that could be dealt with in a 10th block course as both a block and 3 course amount to 225? Mines an ICF build, I'm not a huge fan of starter bars and am probably going to go with Owletts that I can plug into the concrete. I have time on my side with this, I'm not in a rush.

Brilliant suggestion, thanks for this.

My First-Floor Posis are in already. My main focus is in trying to get the level right for the doorway openings so I can drop the lintels straight on top of a course, then work out the remaining blockwork after that (probably 2 courses). Planning on making the doorways 2100 high, but should I take this from FFL or top of actual finishes? I have about 275mm left on the floor build-up above the B&B floor, so I need to achieve 2375mm in blockwork for the lintels to work out. I've just received my Marmox Thermoblocks, they sent me 100mm thick blocks instead of 65mm by mistake, fine by me and nearly courses (2360mm with a 10mm bed under the Marmox), so I guess I can just fatten the courses up a little and get to 2375mm without too much trouble.

This has all been very helpful, thanks to everyone who has contributed. Just a couple of points I need to clear up... So, Medium-dense Concrete blocks for the ground floor walls are a good choice? How high to block up the ground floor walls in terms of the Posi floor above?

That's very helpful, thank you.

Any pitfall in going 2040? We've got 2500 ceilings.

That's an interesting idea.

That makes sense, I allowed 55mm for a pair of linings as that's what carpenters seem to discuss. I'll shoot for 912mm.

Seems like a decent suggestion. I have lots of timber laying around.

What would you suggest for door opening sizes? Also, we aren't decided on internal doors at all yet, do you think the opening size will allow later choice of pre-hung, shadow-gap and so on if we decide to go that way?

That's kinda why I want Medium-dense concrete blocks, they're supposed to be a bit better I think. Luckily we don't have much in the way of internal walling in our ground floor. I'm keen and always happy to hear all views. It somewhat terrifying attempting this with our Architect having left the project and a number of incomplete details, it's certainly stringing the timeline out.

It's nonsense, isn't it? We have a steel container with a decent setup in it, a nice 'normal' mains connected toilet, a 'normal' sink and hot running water. Yet the contractors we had for our Zinc roof were unable to close the lid on the toilet, often pissed on the floor, always left the light on, usually failed to turn the tap off properly. I felt violated. LOL. The people who write these guidelines have no grip on reality, where most contractors seem happy to piss in a quiet corner of the site and, at best, rinse their hands off in a bucket of dirty rainwater.

Ah, no, the upstands are premade Velux items, with insulation in them.

Yes, they are.

Room dividing walls.

The roof plan shows opening windows, Vario by Velux windows have always been detailed, although the specificity of the hinges wasn't. I feel that, as the specialist, he ought to have told me if the detail wasn't sufficient, or if he decided to proceed with a detail of his design (which is what he did) that he take responsibility for it. Interestingly, our roof has 200mm of Celotex on it. The upstands are 300mm, but sat on top of a spacer frame made from 47x97 timbers, so the remaining upstand is almost 150mm from the surface of the Zinc. You're right, pics can be deceiving!