Jump to content

ianfish

Members
  • Posts

    196
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ianfish

  1. Interesting to read thanks
  2. That's the thing the window had condensation in the window in pics we took last week are crystal dehumidifiers...not present when we looked round! We do see a lot of work being carried out on the back of the property so fingers crossed we address the damp then.
  3. We are buying a property which we have begun to set out a design brief for restoration and extension. We had identified a few issues from other thinking but the causes around the stack are confusing as there is little visible evidence inside the walls are clean painted un-bubbled plaster . Our Surveyor via our home buyers survey has highlighted the following as red3 There is a chimney breast to the outside wall of the kitchen. The stack has been taken down above roof level. No defects were noted externally but there is dampness within the flue. Ventilation is required. The main roof is pitched, hipped and covered with clay tiles assumed to be fixed to battens. There is a timber lining under the roof covering. The extension roof is pitched, hipped and covered with concrete tiles assumed to be fixed to battens. The surface of many tiles and pointing is covered with moss and lichen growth. This is a common problem on roofs of this type and this growth should be removed from time to time as moss holds water which can lead to defects. Please also not that defective tiles and pointing may be uncovered during the cleaning process. This is a risk, see section J1. Slipped tiles should be replaced. The main roof is original to the property and is likely to require on-going maintenance and expenditure. The roofs should be overhauled and repaired as necessary. The pointing along the ridge tiles to the apex of the roof and also to the hip tiles is worn and largely missing. Some ridge tiles may be loose. Hip tiles are loose and some have slipped and require repair. All pointing should be renewed. There are no hip irons which are required to help prevent hip tiles from slipping. Sub floor ventilation is inadequate because several air bricks have been blocked up by the construction of the conservatory. This means that there will have been no, or very little, air flow to the floor timbers to the rear bedroom. This could have allowed a build-up of damp and for defects to occur. The through flow of air from front to rear needs to be reinstated and a check made of the sub floor timbers to ascertain whether defects have occurred. Additionally render to the rear bridges the dpc. It should be removed to above the dpc level. Damp Tests were conducted with an electronic moisture meter at appropriate positions throughout the property (except where impermeable surface finishes, furniture fitted cupboards and stored goods prevented access). Higher than normal readings were obtained to the rear wall of the rear bedroom and the en-suite hall. Timbers such as the floor and skirting boards run the risk of being affected by rot and may be defective where concealed. Timbers and the damp need to be checked, including sub floor timbers, and may need to be treated/replaced. Plaster work may need to be replaced. These matters need to be investigated further. The damp is likely to be coming from the chimney breast on the outside wall. All walls should be checked as there were some areas where it was not possible to take readings. Any thoughts or if this needs to be moved to a better section (im new here) Off to Swindon tomorrow...
  4. looks a good tool...im on a pc
  5. From a dig around older freeware versions are no longer supported The current version is available for 30 day trial... I did own a version of auto cad but sadly I got parted from my legal disc...this is about eight years ago though. Ian
  6. Isnt that wjat forum's do Adrian?
  7. Thanks JSH!
  8. We have a date!! Three weeks and the house will be ours, so from having been working from pictures and a few visits I can begin to think how do I get my hands dirty in the coming months.. We intend to add a very generous extension to an already slightly amended 1930's semi. The weekend we went as a couple to our first trade show Grand Designs at the NEC we came across isotex and seem to be a novel idea? We then watched on catch up the street with the first two using a similar product. The idea it seems to be almost a one hit job does appeal. I may take up their offer of free training on their product. I personally like the idea they are a composite material making use of recycled pallets. The build would require a series of three walls being built
  9. New one to us. buying a 1930s semi which we believe was rewired late 80's All seems ok, but the conveyancer has forwarded an electrical survey which has c3 on a handful of points throughout the property. is this to be expected or something we need to look at in more detail? domestic electrical installation condition report. part 6 plastic consumer unit under stairs. no circuit charts diagrams no RCD protection on lighting circuits installed pre 2015 part 10 4.4 consumer fire rating 4.11 charts omitted 5.11 c cables in walls 5.11 d 5.11 e
  10. what have others used to do their own sketches and line drawings? I want to be able to do as much of the project plans myself as possible. I am at a loss for ideas and cost as there seems to be a huge variance from a cad package to the extreme of a free app on my mobile.... ideas please?! Ian
  11. Me and my partner are beginning our journey with a series of renovation and biggish build for me. We have been months so far gathering ideas in of what we want...and hope to achieve. We are buying a well proportioned 1930 semi, overall in not bad condition with a side and kitchen extension built in the last fifteen years We want to do a big new build extension open plan kitchen one storey on the back end to be in keeping with the other deco 30s art crafts feel of the area. I want to manage and achieve as much of the build refurb myself. hope to hear from you all soon Ian
×
×
  • Create New...