Drew1000

Looking for a recommendation for Stainless Steel unvented, Indirect cylinder which will be heated from my Worcester Bosch 8000 system boiler. Capacity is 250L maximum. Any advice on what to look for or consider before buying much appreciated.

Jac, I also forgot to mention that I only got Alexanders to supply a structural kit plus internal panels. My recollection is that Scotframe only supply the full kit. I bought one from them a few years back and the kit was good, the issue is that you need to sign up to staged deliveries of the kit and inevitably you get delayed and although Scotframe were ok to accept a couple of weeks delay they pushed hard for you to take the next deliveries. No fault of Scotframe just real life and the structural option gives you the freedom to buy the next phase of deliveries when it suits you. It also means much less of an outlay at the start which can help with staged mortgage payments.

Jac Sorry for delay but just picked up your post. I would say my experience with Alexanders has been a positive one. There have been a few issues but they responded promptly and resolved the issues. One area I would focus on is the omission of mid or centre dwangs in the internal panels. I have a few twisted studs which causes a few problems for fitting the plasterboard and I can only assume its mainly down to the fact I did not ask for this in my quote (where other companies I have dealt with in the past fitted these as standard). The other area they did not supply was the airtight membrane that goes between the first and second floors and needs fitted when erecting the kit so I was disappointed I had to stump up another £120 for a roll of the membrane. Laminated copies of the drawings would have been useful as it poured with rain during the erection sequence and they do not last long on site outside. another area to look out for is the distance from the end of the kit to doors and windows and dimensions between these, it should all tie in for standard block/brick sizes and on one of my house did not. Not so important when using block and render but I was using facing brick so was an issue to overcome I should not have had to. From my experience so far, one of the kits has bay windows and my advice would be avoid at all cost as they are nothing but trouble (no fault of Alexanders, just a nightmare to get mullions and roof to tie in for someone with little experience in this area, although I am now an expert ?). Not sure where you are in North Ayrshire, I'm in Kilbirnie and you are more than welcome to come and have a look at the kits for yourself, just drop me a note if you wish to take this up and I will help where I can.

I am building a small apex porch roof above my door. Planning on finishing the roof against the house wall using a secret gutter extending onto timber roof. My (small) tiles can finish almost touching the lead upstand or could be stood of by xmm. I have cut a groove for the lead flashing either side 100mm above the tile line to allow for the secret gutter upstand. When I have completed the tiling does the flashing which will come down from above be dressed into the secret gutter and trimmed or does it extend onto the roof on top of the tiles completely covering the secret gutter channel. Hope that all makes sense and thanks in anticipation of any replies.

There are normally 50mm firestops fitted around the perimeter at this level. Every firestop should have DPC stapled to avoid transfer of moisture from the brick/blockwork that will form the outside walls.

Installing shower areas in new build and looking for advice on substrate. Initial thoughts were moisture proof plasterboard and use Mapei waterproofing kit (Toolstation and others) prior to tiling. (No shower boards). Then thought of tile backer boards but they are quite expensive in comparison. If I went for backer boards would I still need to waterproof them. Not sure if the Mapei solution would suffice and its a waste of money putting backer boards on walls if Im going to waterproof anyway. grateful for your thoughts on this one.

I am currently building a timber frame house in Scotland so Scottish Water regulations. Can anyone advise how many double check valves I need to fit and where. I am aware I need (at the incoming mains) an isolator, double check valve and drain point which I have already installed. I have heard conflicting reports that I need them at every appliance ie dishwasher, washing machine, showers etc. Others say just at the incomer. Any one know the definitive answer to the question. Regards

MJ, With solid I Joists plastic was the only real option. I had been a fan of copper for years and still use it in certain circumstances but the default option now has to be plastic providing it is installed correctly. Regards

Looking to start first fix plumbing and heating. Grateful for recommendations on which make of plastic pipe and fittings those with experience would go for. Regards Drew

Peter, Each room partition is well insulated (internal partitions) so would not expect too much heat transfer between rooms.

Thanks for advice guys, sounds like a time clock is a good idea. I am installing a NU Heat system downstairs with programmable digital thermostats for each room.

I’m am installing ufh and rads in new build. UFH is straightforward as each room has its own programmable thermostats. Upstairs will be radiators but was wondering what the standard is for switching off the boiler once all Trvs had reached temperature. Do I need to keep one rad or towel rail free from trv ie bypass and should I fit a thermostat which switches boiler off perhaps in up stairs hall Any advice much appreciated

Hi, I am about to run first fix piping for my radiators in a new build and was wondering if it makes much of a difference using 10mm pipe as opposed to 15mm. As its a new build I have no restrictions in running the pipe but would be grateful for some advice from those with a lot more experience than I have. Regards

Thanks for advice all. May switch to grid switch in utility room to keep clutter down as suggested

Mr punter its on a roll. I spoke with the brickie today and he says he is happy to put it above and below window openings. I have no other use for it so thought as a belt and braces i would use it as the house is being rendered. Thanks for replies

Can anyone advise if it is acceptable to have a grid switch in the kitchen that is used to isolate the washing machine and tumble drier in the adjacent utility room. The grid switch is approx. 300mm from the utility room door.

I am hoping to get the brickies in next week to start work on two houses I am building. One is mostly facing brick whilst the other is primarily blockwork which will get rendered. Both have small elevations which will be done in stone (Thistle stone/Fyfestone). I'm sure the brickies will can advise but I would like to get some advice from those with experience on where and how much mesh to incorporate tp prevent cracking at a later date. I seem to remember three courses below windows but not sure. Also do you use mesh with the stonework and facing brick or is it just the bits that will be rendered. The houses are not being sold on so I would be happy to spend a bit extra on a few rolls of mesh as a belt and braces. So if you were building this for yourself what would you advise. Regards

Nod, Many thanks, much appreciated

Hi, Looking to buy a 2 gang white faceplate switch with a 2 way light one side and dimmer on the other. Can anyone advise where I can buy such a switch. Regards

Hi I am doing a self build using timber frame. Kit is erected and hoping to start brickwork soon. I am looking for advice or tips on how to approach the bay window roofs which are a traditional with 45 degree angled walls from main structure. See attachment. I am a bit paranoid about making sure I do not get any leaks coming in through the brick cavity above and how to maintain air tightness. Any help from those with experience much appreciated. 200G Plot 1 Front Elevation.pdf

I will need to tape and finish some open angles in my attic room new build. Was looking at a product called Levelline which looks quite good (but so do all the promotional videos). It is quite expensive at £27 for 30 metres so was wondering if any of you have used it and would recommend. The open angle corner that needs taping is approx. 125 degrees. Grateful for any advice from those with some experience of this kind of task. Regards

I take it that would mean having a tapered edge with square edges along the 10 meter length of room. I take it this is not an issue for taping and finishing ?

ProDave, I have fitted two 1200 boards on there side, (one on top of the other, staggered)

looking for some advice on how to finish the plasterboard at the junction between ceiling and sloping wall in attic room. I have put two full sheets of plasterboard on the sloping part of the ceiling. Another sheet has been fixed to the ceiling. The issue is I am only left with about 35mm of a gap at the junction. Do I just cut a thing strip of plasterboard and piece it in and let the tape and finishing take care of it. I have battened it all out so I have a fixing for screwing the small strip to. I am keen to give the tape and finisher a good straight join to work with. I have attached a drawing which hopefully shoes the problem.

thanks guys I will look into the thermal board. tonyshouse do you have a make or point me in the right direction on the thermal board please. Regards