LeanTwo

I have had a small area of an old concrete floor treated for damp. The floor is in an old cottage and it is likely that when it was laid, years ago, that it went down without any DPM. We agreed to have this floor treated as it was damp. The work done was to first apply a latex layer. I did not see this applied but it looked like it was poured on in a liquid form. I suspect that the liquid DMP was then applied, possibly while some areas of the latex had not cured (the correct word?). Some of the latex came up through the DPM and I was told that the latex (being oil based) and the DMP material being water based could not mix so the latex could come up to the surface. The latex showed white on the black DPM covering. The builder has returned and painted a second coat of the DPM. He says that the DPM instructions on the can say that it should dry in 16 hours. It hasn't dried after 20 hours. We have put a fan on to increase the airflow over the surface. Should a latex layer have been applied before the DPM was painted on? Does a liquid DPM application rely on some moisture being drawn down into the screed to dry it? What might be a solution to our problem? Any help would be great.

I am just in the process of a bathroom refurbishment and I am thinking of adding a wall heater. Many are advertised but not all state a safety rating that the heater complies to. What is the appropriate safety rating for a wall mounted bathroom heater (Fan or infrared). It's the instant heat type of heater that Iam looking for rather than an oil circulation radiator type. Any information, thoughts or advice would be great.

Thanks for all the replies. The plumber came back to check the installation. As part of this he revisted the consumer unit to find that he had left the Economy7 main isolation switch in the off position. Soon rectified.

Thanks for the reply Dave. Sorry, I should have told you that I took the cover off to read the thermostat setting. I have called the installer but he hasn't returned my call yet. I will try again. I wanted to check that I hadn't missed something.

Thanks for the reply John. Pity that we have to go to these lengths when the theremostat should work! Thanks for the tip.

Hi Conor and thanks for your reply. Can you describe what you mean by the "palstoc" cover. Is this the cover on the end of the thermostat with the temperature dial on it?

My old Economy7 water cylinder started leaking so I had a new one installed. Both the old and new cylinders have an indirect coil from our multifuel stove as an auxilliary top-up. The water temperature from my new cylinder, in a morning is just lukewarm. Sadly the old tank started leaking but it did deliver a tank full of lovely hot water each day. I have checked the obvious things like the electrical switch for the supply to the immersion is in the on position, the thermostat is set to a hot setting (70°C) and whether the RCD had been tripped. What else could have failed in my system? Any advice or suggestions would be great.

Thanks for your reply billt and the heads-up on the vent/HW outlet.

Yes, no problem and our trip to New England was interesting! I am trying to create space in the bathroom by moving the cylinder to the loft and then installing a shower. I have found (at Cylinders2Go) a vented, indirect (a coil connected to our multifuel stove) cylinder with two connections for my Economy7.) I currently have two F&E tanks in the loft. One for storing our water supply and one (the smaller of the two) connected to the multifuel stove. My cylinder, at present, is a typical vented direct (immersions) and indirect (coil from the multifuel) system. My loft is 1.38m high at the apex and the cylinder (170L) I have found will fit. Does my new cylinder in the loft have to be lower in its entirity than the two F&E tanks to work? Or maybe just one of them? I'm more than a little confused!

Thank for your post I am trying to create space in the bathroom by moving the cylinder to the loft and then installing a shower.

Thanks for pointing that out Peter. Mine was put in 35 years ago and is definitely plastic!

I thought that I would need this for the indirect heating coil from my multi-fuel stove? I have a small loft F&E tank connected to my multi-fuel boiler at present. I only have the ash pan door to control the temperature but it does seem to work. The multi-fuel boiler is just a heat top-up and is quite small. The main source of heat is my Economy 7 immersion. OK, thanks for the heads up on balancing taps and solid fuel stoves connected to UVCs. I will mention these to Trevor at Cylinders2Go. I could always go for a vented system but I was attracted to the idea of doing away with the larger F&E tank that I have in my loft.

Thanks for all of the replies. I'll contact Trevor. I have a small F&E tank already. We have no gas in the village. So what I will check out with Trevor is a tank with an unvented direct (Economy7 immersions) and indirect coil (using my smaller F&E tank raised up) in the loft, heated by the multi-fuel stove. I'm assuming that with the coil located at the bottom of the unvented cylinder and ensuring that the small F&E tank is above the coil level then I should be OK? Is there a minimum difference in height needed between the coil and F&E tank?

For a long time I have heated our hot water in a copper cylinder which has two immersion heaters (for our Economy 7 tariff) and an internal coil which is connected to a small boiler in our multi-fuel stove. We occasionally use the upper immersion to top up hot water during the day. This system has proved flexible and largly maintenance free over the years. However, recently I have seen a ring of water at the base and damp in the ceiling below. So it's time to inspect the base to see if corrosion has occured and fit a new cylinder. This could be combined with relocating a new cylinder to our loft which was suggested on a previous thread that I started. I need more space in the bathroom. I suppose my current system is both direct (The immersion heaters) and indirect (The internal coil from the multi-fuel stove)? When I am pricing up cylinders there are a plethora of steel cyliners, which are unvented, presumably to build a pressure to move the water around in the absence of an F&E tank? Can cylinders like my current one (Both direct and indirec) be found on the market? Can I provide cold water to all taps from the rising main (so doing away with my large F&E tank? Any explanation of the terms used or what combination of them work would be gratefully received! …and how could I build my Economy 7 tariff?

Thanks for your reply Nick and the advice on 3 phase, where, no doubt, additional costs would arise. Our shower hot water is drawn from the immersion cylinder on a gravity feed. If we run low on hot water, which is rare, we switch on the upper immersion heater, outside of our Economy7 hours. We have no instant water heaters. We have an attic, not that high (maybe 1.7m at the apex), but built to modern building standards so it would take the additional load. The two F&E tanks are also up there. Not understanding these things well, would the cylinder have to be lower than the main F&E tank so as to allow a gravity feed to work or is that the reason that you sggested an unvented/horizontal tank? Is there room in the attic? Of course not, it's rammed full of stuff we never need. It would provide a good excuse to "review" it!