connick159

Not yet as still not finished.

Thanks again all, I don't think remote trouble shooting is feasible as I also have extremely limited knowledge of electrical stuff which is why i got someone else in. I don't know and RCB from RCD from rcbo etc. I think bottom line is that it's got a bit big on him and I'll have to try and find someone else to tear down CUs and start again. This will take weeks though as which good sparky out there is going to want this hassle as they all seem to have work coming out there backsides. Yet another challenge to overcome on this never ending shit sandwich.

Re the connector blocks. He said he's using them to transfer things to the bottom CU to see if taking the rcd out of play stops the tripping. The power for the bottom CU is coming from the top cu I think. The main board is at other ond of house and an armoured is running to this point which is close to the middle of the house. It's a single story place. The added difficulty is that he is also a family friend which makes things even more awkward. Thanks for the advice so far. Tough to hear but aligns with what I've been thinking.

Just an update as realised I forgot to post back. Bath was a punish. Must have turned it over 30+ times to get it right. Also had to buy basin brackets to get it really tight before tiling. Thanks everyone for their advice.

Pics. Looks like a bowl of spaghetti ☹️ He says "yes it's still messy at moment but will tidy up".

just thinking... to test this... could I turn off all other circuits other than the lighting and turn 3 lights on to see if it still trips? or does it not matter if circuits are off as the fact they are mixed up will always cause them to trip? Thanks again.

Thanks Dave.

Hi, doing an extension and the entire house has been gutted and rewired. About to move in but 2 different socket circuits tripping and sparky is scratching his head. He has a small plug-in socket tester which showed 'green' but as soon as I did my mobile phone charging test the sockets instantly trip the RCB which is the same as this one: https://willrose-electrical.co.uk/product/hager-rcd-100-amp-30ma-double-pole-100a-rccb-161503-cd285u-rcd/ There are also 2 lighting circuits tripping as well. They seem to work until 3 different room lights are turned on at the same time and then the light circuits trip the RCB. He is scratching his head over that too. I also notice that if I press the "test" button on the RCB in the link nothing happens. It's delaying our move-in now as this is the final snagging item and I have no confidence it will be resolved soon. I have questions about the earthing (could find a source) of the entire property so he is going to put in a ground Rod and redo that. Could that resolve the issue? I'm at the point now where i will be forced to look for other sparkies but... who will want to come in and look at someone else's work. I don't think I would. Has anyone got any advice about this? either in terms of troubleshooting or how to approach a new electrician. Thanks in advance.

Thanks @Nickfromwales. It's an ecodan 11.2 with pre plumbed 300l tank. company is in Rhyl (award winning renewable specialists too apparently) and I'm nearer to Bangor. They used a local subbie, who installed while I wasn't on site and when i turned the water it started pissing out so I had to get them back. It's working and doing the heating but no one has given me a tutorial or anything like that, as per contract and I suspect they've not used weather comp or anything like that. My sparkey had to cut all power to site recently so I've had a play and turned it to weatjer comp but, tbh, for the price I paid these mugs I expect them to honour the contact and commission it properly and give me a run through. Anyway, be grateful for anything at this point as I've been trying to get hold of them since early Nov last year but haven't heard a peep and no one answers the phones. I'd drive to their office if I didn't think id then spend the night in the lock up after strangling someone.

Hi, Had an ASHP installed but post post sales support has been shocking tbh so looking for other recommendations for a company or individual in North Wales area who I could get in to take a look with commissioning the system. Problem is that i used 1 company to do the ASHP, another one to do the UFH and screeding but then found out they didn't do any connection and only installed up to the manifolds and then I need a plumber in to do the rest ( i had know idea at that stage so my fault i know). The 1st plumber was ok but has since moved and not available. The weren't too knowledgeable about the ins and outs of ASHP so there is no real 'professional' commissioning for the system like weather comp or anything like that. While to ashp mob's contract said they'd provide full commissioning and also a room by room heat loss calc.... Neither of which I've seen and they are unresponsive and not come back to me via phone or email and i've been chasing since Nov. Anyway, if any recommendations in the North Wales area that would be appreciated.

Full rebuild of our cottage, including bathroom and decided to go with Marmox foam backer boards and will be sealing all the joints with their self adhesive tape but wondered what others have done around the windows? If i was plaster boarding i'd have used angle beads for additional strength. Does anyone do that with Marmox / Wedi boards or just seal with something like the marmox sealant or wedi 610 or even something else? A few picks of progress and the window in question

thanks but sorry, i'm a bit lost. Do you mean getting 5 x 1 battens and screwing them up directly to the underside of the trusses and using packer to get it level? or screw them onto the side of the truss and drop the batten at the high side so it hangs down lower than truss and gets it all level? thanks again.

Hi, I've just come to boarding internal walls on a bathroom and can see that the roof truss (ceiling plasterboard will be fixed to the truss) is some 20mm higher on one side of the room than the other (across about 2.8m.) The walls that meet the ceiling will be tiled so the difference will stick out like dogs balls, A couple of questions: 1. Whats the best way to fix the difference? Shimming or sistering the underside of the trusses or something else? (builder long gone so up to me to sort it out) 2. Is such a difference an acceptable amount? (whats a general tolerance over about 3m - I'd have thought the trusses should be dead level?) Thanks in advance.

Hi, we are doing a bathroom Reno and the bath the boss likes and has ordered is a one piece, free standing bath and I'm worried it will be a a challenge to install because the side panel is not removable so access to drains and feet is restricted. For example, how do you adjust the feet of they are slightly out, or get the drainage connected if you can't get underneath. It's going onto a slab floor. Any advice or past experience would be appreciated. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/monza-1700-x-750-curved-free-standing-corner-bath

Hi all, Any reason the white expansion vessel in the pic could not be moved to above the main tank? I asked for it to go above the tank given we have the room and I was planning to build a partition around the tank and this now is a bit of a rethink with where they have put the expansion vessel. I questioned the location when I came back to site but the installer simply told me it has to be no higher than the tank. Any experience of this on here I'd love to hear comments. Thanks

For reference - decided to order the plinth and shower lay as above.

Hi all, I'm working on the ensuite now and have seen this Marmox Plinth as a good option to build a shower tray up on top of the slab so I can get drainage underneath. (cant dig into the slab so have to go above it and out the wall for the drain.) The plinth is fixed to the slab with a flexible, cement based tile adhesive. On top of that plinth I would then install a showerlay such as this... Marmox showerlay. My question is: Could I substitute the plinth with some leftover 100mm Celotox PIR insulation? It seems like essentially the same thing. Is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Thnks in advance.

Hi James, Did you end up doing this slab work? If so, how did it go? Thanks

Hi Peter, thanks for the info so far. We are planning in tiling directly on top of those. The challenge is the the previous owners had vinyl as a floor covering and now I know why as there are high and low spots across the floor with differences of up to 45mm. There doesn't seem to be a uniform fall either. One part of a hall could take 40mm pir first but then another only 20 and yet another, the highest spot, would not need any before those ufh panels are laid. I don't think I could get a level floor but would like to try for a flat one. (Does that make sense). I've priced up self leveler but that is expensive when considering the floors area. I was leaning towards bonding the pir to the floor but with the differing levels it would be a little bit like patchwork. We have planned to mechanically bond the ufh panels into the slab anyways so maybe that will offset the risks with movement in the pir after tiles are installed. We could just screed it I spose but I'm trying to eek out any insulative value but... It may not me worth it for such a little amount. Thanks again!

This one https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/prowarm-trade-warm-panel-800x600x18mm

Hi all, Building an extension to old cottage and just had the in screed UFH system installed to the new extension and now have a difference of around 60mm between the new extension and the cottage (extension is higher). We are putting an overfloor UFH system in the old cottage which will make up approx 20mm which leaves around 40mm diff. My idea was to add around 20mm of insulation onto the existing cottage slab and then put down self leveler to bring it all up to 20mm below the new extension floor and then the UFH system can go down. Once that's done both floor levels will match ready for tiling. Just wondering if anyone has experience with doing something similar. 20mm is not much in terms of insulation so I'm wondering if its even worth it or should i save money on both the insulation and self leveler and just pour a 40mm topping slab and be done with it? Anu other options or ideas. (besides digging up the existing cottage floor and doing a full slab pour) Hope that makes sense and would welcome any ideas. Thanks

interested to see if you've found any good sources for cladding the steel beams. I'm looking to do the exact same thing. Also. will you be installing all the plasterboard first and then cladding the beam or cladding first and then installing the cladding? Thanks

thanks everyone for the replies. Especially CPD for the pics. They've been a big help. Thanks again.

should i cut them out and start again? messy job but only around 10 lengths between rafters at 2.4m long.