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CJER

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  1. CJER
    Hi, I found your post and was hoping you could let me know where your ducting for the island sits under your floor, we're currently looking to have one installed and are rebuilding the floor due to an extension, have you gone above/below DPM, we're looking to take the ducting under our new sub-floor.
  2. CJER
    I have a further question if anyone can help! Regarding whether they would put the ducting (rectangular 90mmx220mm) pipe under the floor, whether this goes beneath or above DPM. Our floor build up is deep layer of pebbles (existing property) which we're taking everything back to to rebuild the floor, type 1, sand binding, DPM, concrete floor, insulation, UFH, then screed. We're thinking to go beneath the DPM, across through the pebbles to the outside wall from the island (2 metre distance), back up and out the wall. (DPM would be sealed around the parts)
  3. CJER
    I think a back draft damper/non return valve is quite normal for extractors as it will open when the air is pulled down and close when off? from what our architect explained the MVHR venti fluxo stops heat loss, again its quite technical to me but have a look at the venti fluxo website. its expensive but apparently a very good piece of kit, i still dont quite understand it!
  4. CJER
    do you have a backdraft damper/non return valve on the opening on the outside wall? i'm not sure what you mean by this? is this in terms of regs or aesthetic? cost level of MVHR? I think 434.50 plus VAT - https://www.venti-group.com/product/fluxo-mvhr/ I'm not sure on the builder cost as the breakdown doesnt include the install of this separately on its own. i can ask him when we get to that point but it may be a while off, re messages above it seems MVHR isn't suitable, unless your house is a newer build or sealed tight?
  5. CJER
    ah this makes sense, again another minefield, i find it highly amusing/frustrating that we have been specified PIR and strong insulation in order to reach a certain U value, yet you walk a couple metres and the existing house doesnt have it, although i suppose its a good practise to move existing houses to being more efficient, but as you say, the MVHR is clearly overkill even with having a log burner and extractor fan. I think I'm reading it right!?
  6. CJER
    Hi Nick, Appreciate your response, it has been a minefield, this is a drop in the ocean in terms of the advice we've received for our extension and ground floor renovation, many 3am nights researching things i've never known about, dont get me started on foundations and footings 😅 I'm thinking my best approach moving forward would be to get the hob ducted out as best practise to remove as much smell and cooking from the room if we have the opportunity to do so, and to then have the log burner installed with its own air supply (4.9kw wood burning stove), it's more of a feature and crutch to using heating than it is a necessity to warm the house full time. We have a survey next week with the log burner supplier so perhaps in the space and looking at what it is we're doing in the flesh he'll be able to advise us further, albeit, I hope it wont be a case of...lets install, pay ££££, oh its failed spillage test, no cert! Why is it the an MVHR isn't good, as in my understanding its also good to generally take old air and replace with new air, and if the log burner or hob did need more air, it can take from this...or does it not work like that?
  7. CJER
    its not a case of not making effort, we are just going by architects plans, i've never heard of any of this before now so trying to absorb as much info as possible, especially when the building control inspector comes as well as log burner installer. We do have 3 large velux's being installed in the pitched roof of the extension which have 'netatmo active' with them, which can activate opening and closing regarding temperatures/humidity, so i guess that could work and ditch the MVHR as you mentioned.
  8. CJER
    we're renovating a 1980's house that didnt have any insulation in the floor, so not particularly airtight or up to scratch as with new builds today, albeit, one half of the new extension will of course meet the new U ratings with wall insulation.
  9. CJER
    is this still the case even with the log burner having its own air supply? I guess what is the solution as we can't be the first people to have an open plan room with a log burner and extractor fan?
  10. CJER
    yes i agree i imagine as long as its on a slight downward slope rather than opposite, should eventually make its way out. I've seen these, very smart! would be interesting to hear how you get on with your installation it sounds like you've got it right!
  11. CJER
    I'm not sure what extractor hob you're using but we're looking at an AEG downward extractor hob and the product they sell for this hob itself is a rectangular 220x90 and then they also provide attachments i believe to take it to a circular opening if need be, if that makes sense?
  12. CJER
    Thanks for all the responses, i wasn't sure which to reply to but re the above: Our architect designed with building control sign off, for a Venti fluxo (MVHR), next to the log burner (link below), the supplier said when installing in a room with extraction they would add an air supply to the log burner itself so wasn't worried about the kitchen hob extractor. https://www.venti-group.com/product/fluxo-mvhr/ The above link for venti fluxo was also to address the concern of the room being depressurised. I imagine we aren't the only people with a large open plan kitchen/diner lounge (approx 50m2) that have a kitchen and log burner in the same room?
  13. CJER
    We were told the MVHR (Venti Fluxo) was to be by the log burner on the opposite side of the room just to recirculate air and if it needs to draw from the room, also a generally good feature to recirculate what will be a well used room. This was on the basis of the log burner being under 5kw without air supply, but since meeting with a HETAS supplier and fitter for the burner, they said they would fit it with its own air supply due to the room having an extractor of some sort (hob) anyway, not sure if this then makes the venti fluxo redundant and unnecessary? The concern with a recirculating was it just isnt as efficient removing grease/moisture as extracting to outside.
  14. CJER
    We are currently renovating our ground floor and adding an extension on. We currently have a thick concrete sub floor in the existing house as was built in the 80's, with no insulation, that we are taking down to then build back up, adding celotex 90mm and 65mm screed with UFH too which will match the new extension that the room will be part of. We have been advised its best to duct the hob fumes/moisture out of the house, rather than recirculating, due to also having a wood log burner in the room and a MVHR, but have seen a lot of reading around the best way to do it. My two main questions are (but will take any extra advice!)l 1. What happens to the moisture that condenses and can 'pool' in the duct if we're going vertically down through the island, through the floor under the island (beneath screed and insulation), underneath the floor to the external wall (approx 3 metres from duct entry) and vertically back up and out of the external wall? 2. Does the duct run under block wall and up through the cavity (then out the brick wall below DPC) or behind what will be tall kitchen cabinets?
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