carlos21

as in the way i did the other one with no access to trap and pipe work once its installed? thanks.

i am thinking about fitting a shower tray on a concrete ground floor, the last one i did, i put channels into the concrete for the waste pipe and trap, so the shower tray was flush with the floor, there is no way to access any traps or pipe work once it was fitted!!, is this a normal way of doing it or iam i much better off using a riser system for the tray?? i dont have a lot of head room to play with though. its at a rough building stage so cutting the concrete is not too much of an issue. any thoughts? thanks carl

even in my case where from the back of the window frame, its cavity wall pir insulation then the internal block? if that makes sense.

not seen that board before, looks versatile. i was going to either render, then skim or dot n dab plasterboard then skim over the block walls, i wasnt going to add any internal insulation as the cavity has pir in. but maybe some insulation in the revels would be good.

thats what i did with mine, dont know about airtightness, but they are fixed in tight. are you putting insulated plasterboard in the revels?

whats self compacting concrete?

what ones do you rate? thinking about how to get audio into a different part of the house and figured actual cable was a bit out dated and a hassle.

for garden prunning those silky saws are brilliant, lovely smooth cut and super sharp, probably faster cutting than a cheap n nasty badly sharpened chainsaw.

same here, not keen on the noise, but when i occasionally use my drill for screws to keep the noise i really notice the extra weight... they might be noisy but bloody good at putting in screws, i just wear ear defenders as often using saws etc anyway.

cutting up tree wood and garden work id go with a chainsaw, but you said you found sharpening difficult, a small chainsaw will be just as difficult although you can get gadgets that help. for building work the sabre saw is of more use, as any nails or grit or cement will take the edge off a chainsaw instantly. i got a sabre saw recently, i wouldnt say i liked it as they are rough to use but they do awkward cuts that no other saw will touch. long story short buy both, my sabre is a cheap one from aldi, i dont use it much but wouldnt want to be without it either.

thanks for that, il have to try and get my head around the slating system, i did help a builder with some but i found it a bit confusing, plus id say it probably isnt done correctly on this roof anyway, not sure whether it wasnt meant to have a fascia or they were really bad at measuring! would i have to lift the battens too? also you mentioned the bodge of fitting the pvc fascia over the old timber, is the thin pvc (10mm) fascia not meant to be put on a backer board? obviously not a bit of old skirting turned around as in this case, but a treated 7x1 say? still pondering whether i could extend the slate some easier way, not the right job but i find the renovation side of things takes so much energy and headspace just to try and get things vaguely ok, i can see why people say,knock old houses down!!, not sure id go that far, but having a new block extension put on was interesting to see how efficiently it went up, although maybe that was just having a builder who new what they were doing, not just me poking about!! thanks again carl

How many rows of slates would you need to take back? Other bodges?!! None of my work hopefully lol. Thanks carl

I got some genuine batteries at screwfix here in Ireland, they were about the cheapest I could find when I bought 2.