Jammy5

I don't know now I've read another councils CIL as I can't find one for mine talks about relief. I was thinking this was retrospective relief and I could have sworn I'd seen something saying about 20%. I'm likely wrong though as I'm not experience with this. Looking online I don't think my council have a CIL but I will email their planning to confirm.

I know, hence a slight concern as I've already started 🙂 I think it's not capped at 20% if you apply for a exemption late, does anyone know what the value is to pay due to CIL (roughly appreciating it's different everywhere) and if the 20% is correct?

So perhaps an error on my part but upon building the cavity wall and opening for pretty hefty 6m bi fold doors I may have caused an issue. The build details for this opening are completed as per the recognised construction details: https://www.recognisedconstructiondetails.co.uk/library/document/mpf-150-e4-01-window-jamb.pdf I did not put a return on the vertical cavity which I was advised against as "its common practice to return the wall on the external leaf". However for thermal bridging I'm of the belief this is no longer advised with insulation and an insulated cavity closer used (same as the window details). This is where real world meets theoretical though. How does the joiner get the doors secured? they dislike the use of brackets to anchor the door to the inner leaf. I then looked at the recognised construction details and realised the page is titled "windows". Does this mean I could and should have returned the wall. I've added a photo from earlier in the build to explain if I've not been clear. I'm just getting the roof on shortly and about to order windows and doors, just thought I'd ask people's opinions. Many thanks, Jamie

Or is it a case of lay the insulation and let the felt compress it if needed? No air gap needed? This is purely on the gable blockwork and ladders. The rest of the roof would have PIR between trusses and I'll ensure there is an air gap

With the block work being higher than planned, this stops me laying a 100mm rockwool over the blockwork as it would protrude past the top of the truss. If I'm correct, this would then cause an issue where the insulation touches the underside of the breathable felt and removed any air gap?

Unfortunately yes I do

Thank you will ask the question and report back. Building control said something about 9 homes in a development but I suspect he was off piste and misunderstood

It is certainly a pitched roof gable. @ADLIan this is what I currently have. Is it a case of running some insulation between the ladders and down into the soffits? Slight issue is the blockwork, especially on the inner leaf, is potentially too high as it's flush with the top of the top of the truss. Just for clarity, the socks nearer the top aren't actually fitted yet, where it looks like it's protruding from the cavity

I just didn't want to poke the bear if that makes sense. I asked building control and he said it wasn't applicable but I'd like something in writing from them just in case?

Just had a chat with building control and double boarding could be the best option I agree, thank you

My SAP calc assumes I follow the recognised construction details. On the gable end of the property, I am expected to installation insulation above the fire socks and flowing it into the soffits and fascia. The sketch is below showing this: https://www.recognisedconstructiondetails.co.uk/library/document/mpf-150-e13-02-gable-insulation-at-rafter-level.pdf The question here is, do I really have to install the insulation in this area? Looking at the guidance photos, the SAP assessor does not receive a photo of anything other than inside the wall looking at the insulation between the truss/joist and internal leaf of the gable wall. I was advised by someone else they didn't think it was best practice to fill the soffit/fascia with rock wool? Any thoughts please?

How do I know if CIL is applicable? My new build is in Cumbria under Allerdale County Council (or now Cumberland council). Is there a way to check if this council is using the scheme? Thanks, Jamie

They're 13.6mm so no battens would be needed. I found that the profiles are aluminium which apparently is a A1 rated material. The following product page states it's A1 rated: https://www.ledspace.co.uk/products/pack-of-10-2m-drywall-plaster-in-profiles-for-led-strip-24mm-wide Although I've asked for written confirmation or a certificate stating this. Does that all stack up and look like I have a solution? Many thanks, Jamie

Hi there, This should be an easy one for you guys and girls to confirm. I'm looking at having a large rectangular plaster-in LED profile, in the ceiling of my kitchen/diner and various bedrooms/hallways This is a three story home and it talks about fire compartmentalisation and retaining 30 minute fire protection throughout, especially the main escape route (hallways, landing and stairs). There are steel beams in the kitchen and I was going to put fire resistant plasterboard in here to protect these. The rest I was just following the plans and putting standard 15mm plasterboard and 22mm boards which provide 30 mins fire resistance. The question is, does the install of this LED profile, cause issues in achieving the 30 minute fire resistance or am I overthinking it? Will this be something that will come up in checks with building control, warranty company etc? If it's going to be an issue what are the suggestions? Thanks in advance, Jamie

I didn't know if/what evidence SAP assessor required that's all. Brill thanks all will be going mainly throughout the property. Is it advisable to double board to keep fire rating of plasterboard protection as it's a three story home? Or again am I overthinking it?

Hi there, Another silly question likely but hopefully someone can offer some guidance. I'm looking at having a large rectangular plaster in LED profile, in the ceiling of my kitchen/diner. When reading my SAP Calc, it states:- Client to install lighting 100.00% Low Energy Lighting, minimum performance requirements as below: Wattage: Less than or Equal to: 5W Efficacy: (lumens/Watt): 100 Is there a way to remain compliant with this type of lighting? It seems to be the wattage that's causing the concern. Would it be assumed to be a single light or can it be assessed with a bit of pragmatism? The part I don't understand with the SAP calc, is it appears there is no limit on the number of lights I can have, so long as they are 5w and 100l/w. Surely this isn't energy efficient either if I have 1000 lights (obviously over exaggerated to make my point) Thanks in advance, Jamie

Are they purely for fire, or do they offer any other benefit by closing off the cavity?

Thanks for taking time to reply. Does the NHBC inspector check for gaps on the socks or are they more concerned about the corner joints but butt jointed? Are they not usually covered by the felt and battens at this point (my inspector wants to come once roof is about 80% complete with tiles). Also can I buy 50mm socks to fill any gaps? Rather than use another 150mm wide sock? The only thing is the 50mm are blue - current ones are red, so will be noticeable. But both are 1 HR rated? This still wouldn't resolve where they have been cut either side of the ladder rungs and my issue is the builders have already used 25 socks, probably not fitted to expectations in places, and likely now difficult to fit because of how high they have brought the PIR insulation in relation to the rungs on the ladders.

Hi there, I've left it with the builder to fit fire socks at the top of the walls. Firstly it appears as though the socks aren't really a compression fit and more loose than anything. Will this be an issue in the future for damp and/or fire proofing. My understanding is they are intumescent and expand regardless so my concern is probably more about moisture ingress into the cavity. Secondly, they were happy fitting the socks after the gable ladders had been fitted. What they appear to have done is cut them each side of the timber rather than fit them under the timber. Surely this isn't correct and leaves gaps between each that's filled with a flammable material? Thoughts please all

Thanks all, will give it a whirl and see how I get on 👍🏼

I'm planning on complying with the entry level at 750mm deep crossing the threshold of the garage. Hopefully this is acceptable. Most of the entry pipework and pipe details assumes you're going through a wall. I'm going through a wide opening below the garage door. Sorry, when you ask can I have a water meter next to an outside wall what were you thinking? I can but I wouldn't be able to dig the trench between the two properties as it already has rainwater/soil pipes running in this compact space and the water pipe would need to be below them and slightly to the side. I'll also need to be in this area for the electricity and fibre connections. Many thanks, Jamie

Say 5m. 1m outside garage, 4m inside garage under slab

And if the secondary DPC has been installed does that conform with building regs that DPC is a minimum 150mm above FGL? The weep vents sit at the lower DPC regardless of FGL height.

Resurrecting this one. I'm unsure if the builder has installed the secondary DPC on the external leaf. As I have a cavity tray, is this additional DPC a necessity? I've read on these forums in several places that a cavity tray negates the 150mm height restriction. Is this actually correct? I guess my only issue will be water ruining the render where I will sit less than 25mm below DPC along the rear of the property and also down the sides which will slope from the rear to 150mm below DPC at the front. Just need some advice to settle me down a little please. Many thanks Jamie

https://www.unitedutilities.com/globalassets/documents/pdf/advice-for-builders-and-developers-guidance-booklet.pdf That's the advice document that backs up what they were saying