mads

Hello all, we have had planning approval for a full knock down of existing bungalow, and rebuild of a 3 storey house plus car port and garage. separately, and subsequently, we have had planning approved for knocking down 2x existing garages to replace it with a new 10m x 6m insulated steel outbuilding (4m at apex). Needed full planning permission as it is 0.5m from boundary (to neighbours field) we were originally thinking to live in a static caravan on site whilst the rebuild is done. However, this isn’t seeming very feasible in terms of then removing it, as well as the fact we would need to create hard standing, get electricity to it, water and sewage. we are now thinking that perhaps we build the outbuilding first, move into it for temporary accommodation whilst the main house gets built. We would look to put up some temporary stuff walls to separate spaces. Once it’s built, then will return it back to single space outbuilding. questions: 1) do we need planning permission to live in the outbuilding? 2) what things do I need to consider for building regs sign off (assuming would need)? 3) I assume it doesn’t affect the VAT reclaim for main house which is a separate planning application and did not mention the new outbuilding nor will include in terms of materials, costs etc. thank you

Yes I have and have put it in the tender spec. However, I don't want the MC to be using it as a get out of jail free card and actually get to as low as possible before we apply it. Also, I agree with you about it being a bit of a cop out so thought I would ask the collective wisdom here as to what has been targeted/achieved before I respond back and ask the SAP consultant to try harder.

Hey Nick, I will be installing MVHR throughout and removing trickle vents from the windows. There is no letterbox though there is a catflap planned (https://www.thepetflap.com/passivhaus-pet-door/) Not intentionally building to NZEB but there is a desire to build to the best standards we can afford. Already have a 30Kw PV array, solar batteries, ASHP, MVHR, UFH planned. The cavity is 150mm.

Hello all, the architect has forwarded me a response from the SAP consultant and wanted to gauge what target (and actual) people have had for air tightness in a traditional block and brick masonry build? what the SAP consultant said…

@Gus Potter, thanks for your reply. Now got the report back which I have attached. Also attached some floor plans and elevations so you can see what the foundations need to support. Any advice/feedback is appreciated. BH Forum.pdf Geotechnical investigation report 0- redacted - mads.pdf

Yes, I did and have also shared with the architect but apparently not helpful. I need to go back to the company and see if can get anything more but thought I would ask here in case others have sussed this before.

How did you fit them? Do you have any architect diagrams that I could share with mine to give him a different way to look at this?

Hello, Following on from my post asking about external blind suppliers, I tasked the architect with incorporating some external solar blinds into the construct (brick and block with 150mm) so that the boxes are hidden rather than being face fixed to the windows. He has come back with the following response: I wondered if anyone has managed to do this? Thank you, Atif

As others have said, where is the 25mm max limit coming from? Re: ENT tubing, it is cheap but it is not smooth internally so could find pulling cables more tricky as can snag. I am having posi joists fitted which will allow larger conduits run and will fit smooth inner to prevent snagging.

Thanks for sharing. I'm interested as to why they then mandate it? And could it be different if the tank size was doubled?

So some modelling shows... Over 10 years, based on a 5% YOY price increase (I think this is too low imo), the fresh water supply cost for my scenario would be: 2025/26: £304.56 per annum 2034/35: £472.47 per annum The total over the 10 years would be £3,830.72 vs £3,045.60 if the costs were to remain static. Looking at just today with the current costs, the ROI timeframe is 26.6 years Looking over a 10 year horizon with the above increases, the ROI timeframe reduces to 21.1 years Over a 20 year horizon with still a 5% YOY increase, the ROI timeframe reduces to 17.3 years

£348 for the year vs £304 for ST Water on a like-for-like

Thanks. Though I have to say that my exercise presumes the costs stay the same for the entirety. We know that the cost of water supply is going up, with numbers of around 36% over the next 5 years. If I assumed a 3% YOY increase to the fresh water price, that goes up to 360 pence per m3 in 10 years. At that cost, it could shave off around 8-9 years from a ROI timeline. I need to do some financial modelling to see what this might look like over a 10-15 year horizon as I suspect it will be different to the static view I have started with.

Garden is 1 acre which will be 0.4 acre lawn, 6-8 sqm vegetable patch, medium to large greenhouse and 6m diameter pond to keep topped up, plus plants and hedging so expect fairly high use - in-laws are avid gardeners too. When I sent my request to suppliers, they came back saying I need a 5,000L tank but to be on safe side for droughts then consider a 7,500L one. I was going to get a 10,000L as I also have outbuilding roofs which I haven't factored into the water capture calc. Water cost is actually m3 - had the wrong units described and have corrected in my file. Doesn't change the calcs. Waste cost doesn't apply to me so I would zero it out. I included it in case I share this with anyone and they may need to use it due to connection to mains sewerage. For me, the ROI is around 30-40 years so one to think about in terms of capital cost outlay. Was useful to do the exercise and hope it helps others. I had to do a few iterations to get to a point where the ROI time frame balanced out. The replacement pump cost drove it up and I would look to see if 3 years is too frequent.

Kingspan Klagster 4,600ltr system was mentioned. Re: long dry summers, I think this is where making sure you have a high volume tank is important so can store more during the shoulder months when we do have rain.

I decided to create my own calculator on how much I could save on water by RWH. Here is the calc (I included a waste water section though not applicable for me). Happy to upload the file for others to use for themselves, if helpful. I have only done it from a water consumption and waste water perspective. I have not factored in electricity costs (as I personally feel this is negligible and most of us will have PV) but have included replacement pump costs.

I was thinking that if I go down this route then there would be a drain around the majority, if not all, of the perimeter to take any rainfall from brickwork away.

Happy Friday all! Speaking to the architect yesterday about wanting a polished concrete floor in the kitchen that then extends out to the patio area, he advised that he had intended for a 150mm step in/to outside rather than it all being level. I was quite surprised given he had put in dual sliding doors in the kitchen which would like nicer with no threshold step. I've then asked what about the front entrance, to which it seems that that is a flush threshold (for accessibility purposes). Now if that is the case, we will have entrances on all four sides: N: front door E: annexe entrance (older folk residing) S: annexe patio (older folk residing) W: kitchen patio Given this, should I be pushing for flush threshold all around the house? Is splashback from rain etc a big issue? Any significant risks around damp? I am trying to design out issues around accessibility (particularly for older people living with us) and its not just an aesthetics line I am pursuing. Thanks in advance

Why not get the builders to put conduit in and then pull the cable yourselves?

Valid points. I guess for me, its also the sustainability aspect of it and reducing the need for potable water. Can an IBC be buried? Probably, but would suggest very shallow with little weight on top of it and somewhere with no vehicles driving over it. My intention was for the RWH tank to be in the driveway so need to be more robust than an IBC.

In your view, is that also the case for a sewage treatment plant which discharges to watercourse? I don't have mains sewer and no soakaway due to heavy clay. Without hijacking the OPs thread, my reasoning for installing one is with a 6 person household, with 2 older people and at least 1, if not 2, working from home, there will be higher usage compared to a "standard household". Plus gardening, car washing etc. soon adds up on a water meter.

personally, I think it is a good half way house between cat5 and cat7 (I don't see a residential need for cat7/8 unless you have a MASSIVE house). It can be more expensive than cat6 but I find most people are not comparing like-for-like as they compare unshielded cat6 against a shielded cat6a (I just re-checked on Cable Monkey website and costs were comparable in my view). I agree with @bmj1 that some of it comes down to how long the run is and I did caveat that if you can afford it you should. As others said, make sure you have enough runs into a room first and then consider how much budget you have for determining cable type. In my last place, the lounge had 4 network points for TV, AV etc and then a WAP for the wireless devices. Re: future, the things I see requiring more data transmission are high def TVs mainly but who knows what the future might bring. I am thinking real-time streaming of CCTV with AI might require a bit more data too.

@simonr, I'm interested what the Kingspan control system was meant to do? And if the new pump covers it all? Also, did you put a header tank in somewhere to stop the pump activating each time there is a toilet flushed? Thinking about noise in the middle of the night in the house if someone goes to the toilet.

If the conduit is wide enough then it shouldn't be hard. You can have bends but not sharp 90 degree ones. Ideally sweeping ones. I am planning for 50mm conduit for pre-made fibre cables to allow for the jacks to not get stuck. I doubt you need so wide for Cat6a cable. Sounds like you are being fobbed off as they don't want to put/have the ducting as they then need to be more careful.

If you can afford it, go with the Cat6a now Definitely terminate and test after cables are laid. Leave an extra half coil length so when you cut off the plug to properly fit you have enough length left. Yes, terminate after you have run the cables. Its a PITA to run with the plugs attached. Fit them afterwards.