PlaneIron

I'm going to answer my own question. It apparently doesn't matter as long as you tape the smoother printed side. So if installed from above or below, the printed side always faces the installer. This is from the website https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/best-practice-approach-insulating-suspended-timber-floors?srsltid=AfmBOoqOy6uXw7XQNPD9PKJ_QPzO_bIA5AQdWig7Z_BceuyqN-8X8662 Which way up should the membranes be installed? For Solitex Plus, when installed on a suspended timber floor, there is no UV exposure, so the blue face should be positioned so it is the side that gets taped. This means, if the floorboards have all been removed and you install from above the floor, the printed blue side will face up (towards the interior of the room). Conversely, if the floorboards remain in-place and you install from within the crawl space underneath, the blue side will be facing down towards the earth. Taping should always be done onto the blue face as it is smoother and an ideal surface for airtight tape. The same is true for the DA membrane; tape the side you can see and make sure you position it so that would be the dark green face for the DA.

Pretty much as the top part in the photos above. Trap some SS mesh in the vertical battens and fold over the inner vertical boarding. There's a little ledge under the eaves created by this approach which isn't ideal. The alternative would be to attach the ss mesh on the surface of the inner boards and run upwards to another fixing point but it's a lot more hassle.

Did you use the VP400 under the insulation and which side did you install up? I have followed ecological building approach (first pic in your first post) using their materials but have ran out of solitex plus and only need another 3m of solitex plus to finish and don't want to buy another roll given the cost. The solitex is installed printed face up so is the VP400 also printed up or printed down. I'm stupid and @MikeGrahamT21 response has stumped me.

I thought I'd share my approach to wire mesh with board on board cladding. I couldn't find any real detail about this is trada publications or internet. Mesh is held behind the counterbattens or under a batten at the sill level, then folded over the first boards with a couple of staples to hold it in place. Where the mesh would show it's cut away and then the top board holds everything in place. Fairly quick, simple and relatively inexpensive for a roll of stainless mesh.

That's all local oak worked green. Was a pleasure to work.

First saw this site when researching info for installing velux roof lights in a new corrugated roof and then when trying to find out how to insect screen board on board siding. Thought it was time to join up and maybe add my 2 pence worth. I'm in the process of making an oak timber frame (mortice and tenon post and beam) to be a room in the garden. At the siding stage.