Gus2

Probably. Just wondered if there were any engneers out there who might have an idea how these estimates are arrived at, or had the means to monitor real COP. Also curious as to what figures anyone else with an Ecodan gets.

Does anyone know how the energy consumed and delivered are estimated by the FTC6 controller? Are they likely to be fairly accurate? According to my FTC6, I have consistently been getting a COP of over 6, which seems a bit optimistic. Even last week with the outside temperature going down to -6 at night and usually zero during the day, the COP only went down to 5.7. There is no separate metering for the heat pump so the figures must be estimates. Does anyone know how accurate they are likely to be?

Does anyone know how the power consumed and power produced figures on the Ecodan FTC6 are produced? Are they likely to be accurate? Acoording to the figures on mine, I am consistently getting a COP of over 6, which seems a bit optimistic. Even this week, with the outside temperature not getting above zero and minus 6 at night, it has only dropped yo 5.7.

Does anyone know how the Energy consumed and delivered figures on the Ecodan FTC6 are calculated? According to the figures displayed on mine, I am consistently getting a COP of over 6, which seems pretty unlikely.

Their reply was that they only fit standard sizes, ie 600mm height K2, and the available space means that these would have to be 900mm hieight.

I am posting the heat loss calcs / emitter design they have done. The installation has started, and somre things have changed. The Hall rd is now 600 x 1000 K2. The ASHP is the Mitsubishi Ecodan 6 kW PUZ-WM60VAA, and the cylinder is now a World Heat Climacyl 180L. The cylinder is very large, I think because it has a 50L buffer in it, as well as the 180L tank. I cannot find it in the Mitsubishi literature, but I'm sure I saw on a wholesaler's website that the minimum system volume for that heat pump is only 9L, so does that mean this system is going to be more expensive to run as we will have to heat an additional 50L of water?

Hi John, yes it was my understanding that flow temperature is vital to efficiency, which is why I was very unhappy with their design, but as I said, as it is fully funded (I think the grant system is different in Scotland), I think we should be able to re-work it to be more efficient for a fraction of the cost of finding our own installer and getting the £7500 grant.

This is the HUG Scheme. The money comes from DESNZ but it is nominally administered by local councils (although I have been unable to find anyone at the County or Borough councils who know anything about it). The admin has been farmed out to one company, who have then farmed out the actual design and installation to another company. The whole thing seems to come under the umbrella of Warmer Homes. Our thinking at the moment is that provided the rest of the installation isn't too disastrous, even if we end up replacing all of the radiators, we should end up with a reasonable system at a fraction of the cost of going the £7500 grant route.

The grant is administered by the local council, who have chosen this company to do the work. If we want this grant, we need to use this company.

Hello I feel a bit of a fraud as I am not actually doing my own project, but after looking at a few forums, this one seemed to be about the best for technical advice on heat pumps, so I hope I can be indulged. Our position is we are having an air to water heat pump system installed, fully funded by government grant (so we have no choice of installer). They say they will be installing a Vaillant 5kW monobloc, a Joule 150L high gain slimline tank and 7 radiators. There is no existing wet central heating, only Fischer radiators. In their design they have used an oversize factor of 1.9. If I am reading the MCS design guidelines correctly, to be in the green zone with normal emitters the minimum factor is 2.4. They have assumed a flow temperature of 55, which as I understand it is when the heat pump is at its most inefficient, and even then according to their own figures this will be insufficient to heat some of the rooms because they will only use standard radiator sizes, ie K2 and 600mm high. I am thinking that in the future we will want to change some or all of the radiators. So in the longer term I might be looking for advice on how to go about that. In the shorter term I will be looking for advice on setting the system up, because I don't expect them to spend too much time on that. I am guessing it will be the most basic control system, so also perhaps advice on upgrading. In the immediate term, I will be looking for advice on what to look for on things like pipework sizes, etc.