Robert Clark

Got it !

How would you improve drainage on a narrow lane without hard edging?

Good idea 👍 a job for the summer me thinks

The road planings were laid on top of previously laid crushed rubble and type 1 MOT.

It’s the surface breaking up. There’s also water damage as it’s a sloping lane and rain water has nowhere to go other than over the surface

The land owners (similar to National Park) won’t allow it

Hello Live down an unadopted lane which I resurfaced approx 7 years ago with recycled road planings, laid with a ride on vibrating roller. Its lasted far better than previous surfaces (type 1 mot), however it now has deep potholes and is in need of repair / replacement again. Im wondering if gravel, laid onto interlinking plastic honeycomb tiles would be a more permanent solution? Or is there a better option. Sadly tarmac or concrete is not allowed Thanks

Will do when the time comes

guess it helps if you read the question 👍

Hi Guys How much would it cost to dig up 21 cubic meters of sub base materials (crushed hardcore) with a mini digger and cart away ? Based in Sussex Thankz

would it be needed for an extension?

Sadly I don’t know who manufactured the sealed units and the builder is not providing any info about them.

I should have mentioned in my post that our sealed units have 6mm spacer bars

Hi Guys Our builder appears to have dropped the ball when building our green oak framed extension. Long story short.. the architect specified triple glazing, however I suspect that the builder ordered the frame to take double glazing. By the time this mistake was noticed the frame was built. Sadly the specifications didn’t mention the thickness of the sealed units, only that they should meet building regs and be better than U 1.6 The builder has installed 24mm thick triple glazed units, which look very thin compared with other triple glazing we have in the house. I know that the units have low E glass, however I can’t tell if they are gas filled. I’ve asked the builder to provide evidence of the U value, but so far he has failed to do so. To add to the problem, he fitted the sealed units into simple oak frames which are tightly fitted into the green oak frame. Over time the oak has moved and there are now gaps around the window frames which let in draughts and rain. Any idea how I can find out what the U value of the sealed units might be? If I can prove that the sealed units (and their frames) are not fit for purpose then I can reject them

It is on show and on a 100 year old house, so prefer traditional

Hi Guys How much should I expect to pay for 8m linear of code 5 lead box gutter, supplied and fitted in SE England? it’s on a new extension Thanks

Yes

Do you apply Antico on liquid screed after a week ?

Hi Guys We’re having a screed laid soon and plan to have Antico flooring laid on top. Our builder is suggesting using a fast drying liquid screed, but our flooring supplier suggests a traditional screed as it can have a damp proofing sealer applied on top if needed before laying the Antico, whereas he claims that fast drying screeds cannot, Which option would you choose ? Thanks

yes every tile has two holes at the top they're just normal roof tiles

Hi Guys when fixing vertical hanging clay tiles, should you use two fixings or can you get away with just one ? Thanks

Hi Guys I am retro fitting gutter hedgehog on our house refurb. we have deep flow gutter. In places the hedgehog looks raised up, so I’m wondering if it needs fixing somehow. Ive found some gutter brush fixings on Amazon but they all say ‘not suitable for deep flow guttering’ https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00FOTN35Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CF6ZB4JTYPC7153FS3GE Do I really need to fix it? If so what should I use ? Thanks

The builder has gone back to the structural engineer as there is no detail in the plans for this item.

Not that I’m aware of There was a colour coded plan showing which piece of the jigsaw went where, but little else.

Hi Guys Our builder is assembling our oak framed extension. He appears to be having issues getting the frame square to the dwarf walls and has fixed the bottom beam to the wall with some bolts whilst he completes the assembly. I’m wondering if it would be better to remove the bolts after the assembly is complete, to enable the frame to move as it desires? Im concerned that if the bolts are left in place that the frame may cause the bricks to crack and / or dislodge over time. Appreciate any comments Thanks