SelfBuildSmurf

Thanks @crispy_wafer, I was looking at the plastic duct chambers and perhaps doing the joints in those, while it means they are accessible they would then have to be a decent size to allow bending the mdpe back out of a connection and in again if they ever needed to be changed, And if they're unlikely to ever need changing, then why bother with the access chamber, Another example of the procrastinating I'm doing!

Also, if I may. I'll be running a new 32mm MDPE main along the same trench and I see Plasson couplings are well thought of on the forum. I will be using at least two tee's to split the new mains feed, one x 'front garden tap', 1 x 'house supply' and 1 x 90 for a 'Rear garden tap'. Would you try to keep the fittings accessible or are they genuinely a fit and forget product? Is there a preference between push-fit / compression? If accessible any recommendations on how? Thanks

Thanks again for the insight @JohnMo, I understand what you mean @SimonD, as a compromise I've seen some run from central manifold in 15mm to a manifold in the bathroom and then split to outlets. With en-suites typically used morning/evening in conjunction with a shower I guess it reduces the time waiting for HW to arrive. I can see from the forum that Hep2o manifolds are well recommended I've seen repeated reminders by @Nickfromwales and others to ensure any garden taps are not connected to the DW manifolds. So I'll start sourcing those material in due course, I'm now back to weighing up whether I do have to sacrifice part of the utility room for ASHP performance and efficiency (i.e. locate the UVC in there and associated plumbing/manifolds) or whether the ASHP could still perform efficiently if I extended the flow and return to the plant room. But looking at the specification tables it appears just the now installed subterranean flow and return (22m pre-insulated pipes with ID of 42mm) may be a little over ambitious....... I'm now thinking a run similar to that outlined below (approx 30m ish) would definitely be a little too ambitious! As a side note, it's today that I really wish I had concentrated and finished my M&E apprenticeship all those years ago.

Thanks @JohnMo, Are your manifolds serving multiple showers as well? Do you notice any drop in water pressure etc. or noise issues if two showers are in use?

Evening all, I'm trying to finalise a plan for re-plumbing our renovation but excessive procrastination on my part has me here seeking guidance from BuildHub members, In short, we are renovating the entire house which necessitates a re-plumb and re-wire, We are moving from gas fired Warm Air Heating (Brink B-23D) and Immersion hot water to an ASHP with Unvented Cylinder (finally hot water at decent pressure!). We have a HeatGeek proposal from a local installer, but I have decided to take on the UFH downstairs and UFH overlay upstairs to reduce the quote, and owing to build timescales I have run a length of pre-insulated pipe below ground from the proposed heat pump location to the utility room shown on the drawings (approx 20m). House heat loss has been calculated at 13.42 kW and the design done to -3.0 C (Cambs) - Vaillant aroTHERM plus 12Kw Heat Pump - Vaillant uniSTOR 300L HWC We would like to install a Water Softener too, as we are in a hard water area. I had initially intended to put the UVC and plumbing manifolds in the plant room but it would result in a pipe run from plant room to the kitchen sink of approx. 22m which strikes me as being less than ideal. As the insulated pipe for the ASHP comes up in the utility room, I am now considering putting the UVC in there as well as the plumbing manifolds, I am yet to run a new 32mm mdpe mains supply, which will be either into the utility or plant room once I've bitten the bullet! I've come up with the following manifold configuration for outlets, Redacted Drawings.pdf Being more familiar with a branch and tee system, could I ask your opinion please on the proposed manifold configurations for DHW and CW please? - Given the length of the runs would you instead opt for one run to each room and split within i.e. a 22mm run to a manifold in the bathroom and then 15mm feed to each outlet? - Is there a general rule of thumb on pipe size to certain outlets? (i.e. 22mm to bath, 15mm to sink etc....) - Any other general pointers? I've attached the floor plan below

Hi @mk1_man, I would like to know more about your experience with air2heat please? I've had some obscene quotes for an ASHP, and given the entire house is being renovated room by room and the house needs to be replumbed, and have UFH installed I think id prefer the DIY at my pace route. Are you a plumber by trade? Thanks

Hi @ZenMad how did this part of your renovation go? I am currently considering similar so it would be good to get an update on how your system is performing. Thanks

That's odd given all the European directives around transparency and consumer rights that they would withold such data. I'm liaising with Welthaus now, extremely competitively priced and a decent offering of doors with details I can review and implement on the build. Totally feel your pain about aspects like this feeling far more difficult than they need to be! I may just use some of this new pricing I've obtained to leverage against local suppliers/fitters!

@markharro I too am looking at their offerings (door and windows) did you go with them in the end? Thanks

I am about to start building the subdeck for a standing seam room, I'm getting splinters while I still procrastinate zinc, steel etc. I have been discussing the supply of Standing Seam from Pagurek with Patrick who has been very helpful but I'm after some pictures or advice from those who have done similar before I climb up onto the trusses and have at it. The roof concerned is a gable roof, it covers the porch (extension) and garage (existing) and is a move away from the flat roof which was on the garage before. Trusses are in, 600mm centres and an 11 degree pitch, the entire roof area is about 48m2. Regardless of the metal covering I opt for the deck construction appears to be very similar the only obvious difference I can see being zinc may require the last rip of the deck to be 5mm thinner than the rest of the deck. Attached are some photos of the roof as it stands, how I want it to look and a cross section of the deck I am considering. I can't switch to a warm roof (not enough clearance below existing house window where the ridge is) so I know I will be tight for space above ceiling and the roof near the eaves and I need to allow for sufficient ventilation. I also want minimal, if not flush eaves, but this area of the roof is giving me cause for concern when it comes to the roof and the breather membrane (for any condensation) terminating in the gutter, For those of you who have done similar before, have you any photos of your eaves detail which you would be happy to share? My proposed build up is outside to in Standing Seam Powerlon Metalix Breathable Membrane 18mm Plywood 38mm batten (Does VMZinc really require 50mm?) Breather membrane (Strotex) 800mm Manthorpe Continuous Eaves (to maintain space between insulation and breather) Truss Questions I am mulling over are If opting for the above build up does the breather membrane (5) need to be able to run off out into the gutter? If the continuous eaves roll (6) is below the memberane (5) am I asking for issues if condensation occurs between the two? (i.e. it can't condense and run into the gutter) How, with a flush fascia do you permit ventilation? Do I need to use some batten to keep the plywood rip out slightly from the brickwork? I may be totally over thinking this so would welcome your thoughts,

Afternoon all, I've been browsing the forums for a while, messaged a few users direct but as we are fast approaching water tight I'm after a steer from the group on all things plumbing...... Attached are a couple of pictures of what will be the finished ground and first floor plans. The existing house is/was heated using a warm air boiler (located in what will become a snug) ducting through floor to ground floor rooms and into the loft and into 1st floor via ceilings. hot water was previously provided by an electric hot water cylinder (i know $$$) located on the first floor. (Cold Water tank in the loft) Mains gas and water come into the house in the snug (it used to be the kitchen). The intention is to re-route the mains water/gas to a plant room accessed off the garage which will house new System Boiler Unvented Cylinder Water Softener Heating will be provided by radiators in bedrooms, snug, study (8 Rads) towel radiators in bathrooms/ensuite (4 Rads) underfloor heating in open plan kitchen/living room and porch This will be a completely new plumbing system with all existing plumbing decommissioned as the job goes on as we are still living in the house as while work progresses. The first floor joists run side to side (across the front) of the house, except the rear extension which runs front to back. Up until last week I was intent on using a branch/tee plumbing system for the hot water and central heating (because that's what I was familiar with) but I then realised how much more common the manifold systems have become. I've plumbed in plastic before when renovating our last house and I like the idea of using a manifold system because it gives a continuous run of pipe to the appliance/rad (reducing scope for leaky fittings at junctions/turns etc) but I also note the issues with having to empty fairly long sections of pipe before it receives hot water, to give an idea of scale the house is about 12m wide 14m deep. In terms of design my questions to you lovely people would be, should I Use one manifold in the plant room to serve CH pipe runs to all rads and towel rails and secondary manifolds serving the UFH? In respect of DHW and CW run a feed to each bathroom and install a manifold in each bathroom (therefore a using a shower means a significantly shorter length of pipe needs to be vacated for the sink hot tap)? Is running a manifold off another manifold a no, no in terms of maintaining consistent water pressure etc? In terms of manifolds etc, I'm familiar with 15mm, 22mm etc. but I'm seeing reference to 10mm, 16mm across some brands. Is there a preferred brand of pipe, manifold etc. you would recommend? I'll probably have more questions as we go on but I am actively scouting threads looking for answers etc. so thank you in advance for all the contributions

How did you get on @HHHAMSTA? I have just finished framing the roof and getting ready to install the deck. I would be interested in knowing more around the detail you used for the hidden gutter and soffit/fascia. I too am wondering if it will need venting.