ricardo100671

In response to your points - Vaillant wiring centre to wire in the mixer .... Yes I have now bought the VR71, which I think may be overkill, I think VR70 would have been enough, and have a sensoComfort and weather compensate connected already - You need a pump on the UFH ... Based on UP other vids about caldulating heads etc. I figured my system is low enough to be handled adequately by the boiler pump, since it is all ground floor and all rads are fed from manifold all with smooth curves. As for the flow rates, Can't understand why this can't be managed by flow restrictors on the manifold. I could check the deltas on the return to ensure I get correct flow for every loop, incl. rads. Any reason this would not work ? - You need temperature sensors on your pipework so that ... I see, yes I will have this as part of the VR71, but, I wonder, is this why I need the hydraulic separation .. I did note his mention on this, but did not elaborate and I guess I did not quite understand. If it is about sensing different temps for each circuit, would a sensor on flow before each manifold input not achieve this ?

Yes Correct

I did that based on the Urban Plumber's vid you posted above. You can see right at the start his manifold setup seems to tee off both flow and returns. If I need two circuits would I need 1 or more valves on this pipework somewhere ?

We have a 193 Bungalow, plannig to attach 2 layers of 50mm K5. Problem is Upper half of walls, is pebble dash, protruding by ~25mm and therefore would like inlfill lower half, as cheaply as possibe. Thinking to use 25mm XPS all the way to the ground, then over the lot with the K5. So, effectively, would have three layers on lower half (XPS+K5+K5) and two upper half (K5+K5). Would glue first layers with EWI 225 Premium, possibly full face coverage for the XPS and D&D for the K5. Then mechanically fix next layers with centered single fixing per board, followed by top layer with 5 fixings per board. Folks at EWI store told me I could not do 3 layers i.e. XPS+K5+K5, something about the K5 faces being to smooth, or something, allowing movement between layers, and advised to build up lower half with their mortar infiil, which would require 153 bags costing 1600 ex VAT and labour ! If movement between layer is really an issues, could I not just also add thin layer of adhesive between layer? Thanks in advance for any aevice

That is great ! Thank you. Just a couple questions after watching that - At around 1:00 he seems to describes how the valve maintains temperature by pushing the flow out to the return, but the at 1:40 he seems to state just the oposite that cool water is coming in to the valve from the return, which is how I thought mixers valves actually work ? - Do I need to have two circuits, if I only have a single zone, my thinking was that the ESBE will just always keep the UFH set at a relative temp to the RADS. So system flow would be 50 and I would restricit the ESBE set point so the UFH flow is only 26. Then the system should remain balanced if. i.e. if boiler lowers or raises flow temp depending on weather compensate rads/UHF flows should remain constant at same ratio. (hope that makes sence) - Why would I want to turn the system off if outside temperature reaches certain temperature ? I that not the job of the Stat, based on inside temperature ? This is how my system was plumbed. Aside from the controll centre and pipe sensors, I dare ask how wrong it is and what else I am missing on it to get it working ? Thanks again for all the advise

Thanks @JohnMo. Yes I have mixed system. My rads need to run at 50degC and UFH at 28. Did not get the wiring centre yet as not sure which one to get, of if I even need one, given my simple system. If I do get one, I assume would treat the mix valve like any other actuator, but what is confusing to me is that, my understanding is that the actuator is controlled bassed on the related connected stat, so that the actuator is closed when the stat reached setpoint, but for the mixer valve there is no stat. Does that mean I should have fitted a floor sensor stat and that is what is paired with the valve at the wiring center ?

I have followed this advice, from Urban Plumbers, and fitted an ESBE motorised valve to my manifold as mixing valve for UFH, but not sure what I need in order to connect it to my Vaillant ecoTech Plus. It is a single zone setup with 1 sensoHome Stat and weather compensate. Thanks in advance for any help.

My bathroom has two lighting loops, House and Mood. We have an illuminated mirror, which I would like turned on with either loop. Can this be achieved please ?

Thanks for the very detailed advice

Floors undulate cross joists about 7mm and dip down by one wall to 10mm over about 800. Planning 12mm laminate over, which brings up another question of whether I still have to use underlay if I do pour leveling. Also its about 74sqrm into four connected rooms

We are considering leveling out our joisted timber floors with Setcreet Latex Self Leveling compound to 7mm avg. thickness. The deck is ProWarm UFH routed boards with 6mm over ply. Some people have said tis is a waste of money as it will eventually crack and crumble over time due to vertical flexion form walking. We can see a bit of movement when we walk but wondered if concrete would weight this down and give a more sturdy base. Has anyone has success/Issues with this ? Thank you

I am designing a door with Solidoor designer and one of the option is to ommit the coupler, which is me preference. The overall door dimensions are 843 Door +357 sidelight. I assume, without the coupler the two are screwed together for each side, with mastic between ? Would this pass Building Control ?

There is no doubt that there is a leak, question is about solutions. Thanks

15mm Pex and its ground floor, inaccessible void below floor. full pipe run fittings at each end.

My 'Plumber' (turns out is a dip sh$%t), did not do a pressure test on my bedroom rad runs before laying communal areas underfloor heating over it ! After insisting this be done, we have found a leak, 3 bar loss over a day. All loops are pex and run to outside manifold, so can address each line individually. is there any solution, other than ripping up the floor ? Was thinking leak stop solvents but womnder if anyone has had experience with it being a permanent fix. Or, maybe, even snaking a microbore bore through the damaged pipe and running that rad off that.

Thanks for the replies and the tip on the Y branch for a rodding eye. It just sounded absurd what he was saying, also claimed rodding tools are all 4" WHAT ! and he is practically retired ! I do wonder where he bought his credentials. Worse still and if I read Part H, section 2.6, correclty, it states "Appliance discharge pipes should discharge into another discharge pipe before discharging into a stack, unless they discharge to a gulley." I have all my appliances discharging to a common discharge before discharging into the stack. So to me that seems perfectly compliant right ?

My plumber has designed our bathroom sewage as per the picture below. All branches are 50mm pipework and there is a rodding access on the stack branch. Our Inspector said that all braches need to be 110mm up to each service point and can then be reduced down. Claiming this is because they are below floor level and for rodding purposes. But Given the connetion angles, I don't see how a 110mm pipe would be any easier to rod than a 50. Is this design wrong please? If it is an issue, would this be acceptable instead to provide better access to each branch ? Thank you

We are doing a refurbishment and want to plan for the possibility of adding a Battery backup, like Anker SOLIX or Mango Power E, in the future. The grid supply and Main CU are located in the middel of the house and the batteries would be in an outside Plant Room, which Has a CU supplied with 16mm2 cable from the Main CU. In the future we would like to run the house entirely from Batteries, charged either by solar or overnight on cheap tarrif. is the current 16mm2 cabling coming into the Plant Room adequate for charging the battery from grid and I assume I would need an additional cable inplace to run power back to the Main CU to power it of the batteries, as well as CAT for any controll pannels? Am I missing anything please ? Thank in advance

Thank you. Not quite sure I understand all that. I am planning to fit the weather compensate sensor, for sure and also have a single room stat. Are these thing mutually exclusive? Assumed the weather compensate would adjust flow temp so we don't overshoot and also be mre efficient

We will be having UFH in communal areas, 5 loops and 5 rads, in bedrooms. UFH is ProWarm 16mm foile faced routed boards and I have used Heat Punk to calculate the exact rad sizing to run the lot at 45deg C. Will set loop flows to ensure each loop achieves its design output as well all preset lockshield on rads for the same. Our heat loss is about 49W/m2 and so will use a Vitodens 050-W combi. Was thinking I do not need a separate pump on the manifold as, from my calcs, the one on the Vitodens should be plenty good enough, given that it all ground floor, single zone and only 5 rads. Am I mistaken ? Thanks in advance for any help

Thanks Nick, for the perfect explanation. Exactly the assurance I needed since this will all be burried so didn't want to do something I would regret. All pipework is either 110 or 50 and the kitchen run is around 2m (excl. Upstand)

I this design and concerned toilet flush will pull out traps all traps. So thinking to add air inlets, at and, above sinks, but wonder how to deal with low level of shower and bath.

Thank you @Nickfromwales, @Lofty718, @ProDave, @JoeBano and @JohnMo for the very usefull comment whcih makes a lot of sence now. The floor is ProWarm Profloor Foil faced 16mm pipe at 150mm c/c, 12mm Laminate about 1.4 TOG. My setup is Rads and UFH will run simultaneously of one stat, so thought 1 Boiler Pump would work, but from the UFH resistive arguments I can see how I will need one on the manifold too. At 45deg the UFH was overshooting by 1000W and I was using that excess to compensate rad shortfalls in adjacent rooms, which form another post shounded like a bad idea. Have doubled the rads and at 45deg they will just about meet the bedrooms heat loss and can't go any bigger with them, so sound like I need the thermostatic mixer valve on the manifold to temper the UFH output, then sound like I will have a nicely balance system. Thanks @JohnMo for the video link which was very informative, but, if I understand correctly dont think I need Boiler Mixer Valve control since I only have one State calling for heat ? Can anyone advise what the temperature differential should be for rads and UFH flow/Return please ? Again thanks all for the unfull advce.

Thank you, I plan you use a Viesmann Vitodens 50. I think you are saying I best to add UFH to its own manifold with ESBE mixer to bring down its temp when running the rads on separate manifold running at the 45deg flow upsizing them to meet the room requirement instead of relying on UFH from other areas to compensate for the short falls