ColdOutside

Hi, I have an outdoor toilet with double skin wall and cavity, it has tiles directly on concrete floor and used to have a door. Attached was a outhouse shed which I've converted into an office and then cut through into the toilet and blocked up the old toilet door. The office has it's own door too, so now there is a cold damp toilet and separate office which is fully insulated and warm (thus far). That's on the context. The issue is the toilet has dirt up the side where it meets party wall and after rain it's ingressing the bottom per picture. 1. Is it worth putting a water proof paint on there walls? As I cannot fix the source of the issue, so it's just a case of preventing the ingress. I put in a new (cheap) sink stand as there wasn't a sink before (attached where door was), as this is sat on the cold floor and there is no heating in the toilet, it's covered in mould already, however the wooden shelves that have always been in there are not mouldy (above toilet). 2. Is this a wood/cheap issue? Where it's just got a high moisture content? Or am I supposed to be putting a heat source in there? or dehumidifier? I have insulated the old door and insulated the roof. Thanks

This looks good, need a black one though. Looks like it’s pretty conclusive that it’ll need lead then? Could I use the above flashing and then some flashband over the top for the downward overlap? Or wall not flat enough.

Hi, Anyone got any ideas for joining the wall to roof, need an upstand of some sort. The wall isn’t straight and not in a good state of repair to chase into. What options do I have? Or has anyone seen similar.

Any info on this? Cannot categorically say it’s linked, but likely. Would the rebuild be more expensive than a traditional foundation? Would you take on land like this?

Wood shingle

So you’d fix through the insulation into the joists? And then fix through metal sheet into top osb only? Seems not a good enough fix for the sheet.

I have an existing lean to that is leaking through the underfelt. It’s tiled well but I suspect there isn’t enough fall. I was hoping to remove all tiles, felt and battens and squeeze in a warm roof without changing the existing lead flashing and existing roof joists. I was hoping to fit 11mm osb directly to joists then 50mm PIR and then another 11mm osb with a final corrugated metal roof with a underfelt (drip stop) for condensation control. Does this sound viable? Would you screw the metal sheet roof all the way through the warm roof to the joists to sandwich altogether or would this compromise the warm roof? How does all the above fix without compromising the warm roof?

Yeah not too much room so 70mm is about max. Using a osb finish internally not plaster board.

That’s pretty much the plan. Is the 70mm battens to allow a 20mm air gap?

Office. Mearly a desk.

Thanks for clad rec. I don’t see how stud design will change? If I use say a 50mm solid insulation on wall it’ll just give me a ledge internally which I’m ok with as need the space really.

Not sure natural slate would really resonate with a black timber vibe.

I was actually half opting to save costs as less clad material in theory, due to gaps. 1 roll of this — https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/solitex-fronta-quattro ~£400 70mm clads * 85 — https://www.timberulove.co.uk/products/siberian-larch-charred-cladding-battens-a-grade-22mm-thickness-square-edge/?attribute_dimensions=20+mm+x+70+mm+x+3000+mm+-+£13.73 ~ £1.1k £1,5k total for clad, plus the little extras. Can the above look be done cheaper? Think it's roughly 20sqm.

Yep would rather do full metric, my mistake really for not questioning it. Read a lot about open rainscreen. I can’t really see any reason to avoid? Building position is not particular open to elements and I like the design of it over block on block. Still may change mind but I’m after this design. Not decided on insulation for lowers as there is already a timber skin inside which I haven’t removed to see what’s behind.

Do I just forget about imperial then? I shouldn’t be mixing?