mistake_not

Before I have just used contact matt as a mist coat, but realised with some modern paints to need to use the right base coat / primer as some folks have had issues with contact matt as a base coat and paints peeling.

Slight tangent. What paint are you / folks finishing IWI like this with? I'm looking at using something breathable which rules out the normal vinyl Matt etc I think.

If you do this run it in a VM. Cracks / keygens are a great place for "added value"

Then hopefully heat pump / fan coils next year 😄

It's slowly lost effectiveness over the last 3 years, so if I can bodge this summer I'll be happy!

Any body done it? Our portable air con unit that is only used a handful of times has been getting progressively less effective, and on turning it on tonight it is now ineffective. There seems to be inexpensive kits / gas you can buy, but interested if anybody has successfully recharged one with R290 propane.

@SpinnyDid you resolve this? Excuse my stupidity but was the actual door system ok and just had install? Or system flawed. Reason for asking as we are planning on an eclipse door system, but now may change our mind...

But - our house is 1980 and we were sure the only asbestos was the artrex

We had it in our ground floor. Did a quick test by using a kit from https://www.asbestos-sampling.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoqDhxnHe7r9cDAYl9R1ZU-pZXzvw4H_uEjrNZ7Wa6WZeCDXLN47 whilst in full suit / face Welly. Came back as lowest grade. Was removed under non licenced notifiable work in a 2 day period across the entire ground floor a few weeks ago (which was empty at the time). Didn't need negative pressure etc, but lost of sheeting etc. Got air testing after (not a requirement for this work) but wanted for peace of mind.

Don't see why not. It's what I'm planning on doing.

Not a solution but read this thread of the consequences and remedial action: I suppose options are: 1. Rip down bricks, replace the PIR with cavity bats / pump in eps. 2. Pump in eps from the outside 3. Pump in a closed cell foam. 4. Give up, do IWI / EWI and an airtightness barrier. 2 is probably easiest and cheapest. Depends on if you have enough residual cavity for the beads to properly flow.

In my renovation I have ripped off the window sill around my bay window and exposed the cavity underneath. It's had some failing glass foam insulation in it, so have emptied it all out. For context the wall is a traditional brick and block build, with the window sat on the outer brick leaf. I will seal to the window with insulation and air tightness, but am unsure what to re-fill the cavity with The cavity varies in size between 60 and 35mm, would seem obvious to use EPS beads. I thought maybe use an old bin to mix the beads and PVA and then out them in? Anyone got any experience or better ideas? It's only 1m high, and about 2m along.

Not yet- but working on it as part of renovation/ extension. Aim to be when I'm done. Mvhr going in as part of the same work.

Been searching and thinking and can't think of / find / work out how do air tightness well for my extension other than taping everything in sight like @plockhart is. The extension is going to be a warm flat roof attached to an existing cavity wall, with a new full fill cavity wall. Airtightness on new walls achieved with parge coat and old walls with wet plaster. Roof buildup so far is: - plasterboard - joists - OSB - VCL - Insulation - EPDM Can see how I can easily join the VCL to either wall, and therefore am I better just omitting it, and ensuring the OSB is vigorously taped to all joists / itself / the walls, or doing something different? I don't like the idea of the VCL below the OSB, as the OSB is then effectively sandwiched between 2 airtight layers and has a moisture risk. Grateful for wisdom / pointing me to the answer elsewhere.

I was pleased with the collingwood ones we had in our last place: https://www.collingwoodlighting.com/product-category/indoor/downlights/