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zzPaulzz

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  • About Me
    Self builder just entering the build stage after many months in planning hell. Keen on near-passive standard build methods, PV and ESS, home networking. Some DIY experience but first time builder.
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    Suffolk

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  1. You just answered it, thanks Capping with aluminium is an option.
  2. Any opinions on this topic? I will have black capped barge boards, soffits and fascias. I want a durable and low maintenance material that won’t need repainting, particularly for the capped barge boards as these will be most exposed to UV and weather. So far my list includes tricoya (expensive), Accoya (expensive), Cedral (not a fan of cement boards), larch, or whatever I can get from the local builders merchants.Definitely don’t want uPVC
  3. Thanks @JohnMo. What HP do you have please?
  4. Agree with both those points. I have roof lights to help with passive cooling. Might also use the ASHP to cool the slab a little during heat extremes (being careful to avoid the dew point).
  5. Although initially concerned my heat geek engineer is now confident my system will qualify for the BUS even though I have no emitters upstairs. The ASHP is sized for heating the whole two storey house using the ground floor in-slab UFH. He has said I need to minimise insulation between floors though to allow heat to rise. I have a full height entrance hall and MVHR which will help.
  6. I'm going to need some of that too. Do you have a supplier in mind?
  7. Hi Alan, I'll message you directly
  8. 21degrees have been buying up smaller companies and putting them under one roof. I’d say they are struggling to integrate them into a true one stop shop. I am using them for windows and doors (Aluclad wood) and MVHR.
  9. Oh, yes please
  10. I got something similar from 21Degrees. Lowering the cladding helps which is how I reduced the packing to 6mm.
  11. @marmic I had to order undersized windows from 21Degrees to get the cill falls. I have a fully-built 485mm wall thickness and the structural openings in my timber frame are flat. If I place the windows centrally then the cill needs to reach 100mm plus 30mm overhang, leaving me with 6mm to pack (and taking that off the window manufactured height). What are other suppliers doing differently to avoid this? Providing a deeper bottom frame?
  12. Note that the lower splay results in reduced insulation at the base of the Velux so I’ll using extra low conductivity PIR here instead of the high pressure pumped cellulose.
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