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Can anyone see how to select or more tot the point know which channel my UH8-RF V2 is using? Also what are the zone switches for? I can see they are all set to 3. The others which I don't use are set to 1

Thanks for your reply. Picture attached.

I am replacing Slimline stats for NeoAir for app control. I have the UH8-RF V2 for controlling the UFH in 5 zones. Installations states you must find the Channel by looking for the two dials by which the Channel is set. I'm unable to see these anywhere inside the UH8. So taking a guess at it being one of the 99 channels, the manual states you should select the same Channel in the stat. Power - then Setup - then arrow down to P2 ( UFH control ) I can't get it to pair at all and as of yet not tried all the 99 channels. Is there a way to know what channel the UH8-RF V2 is set at where there are no black dials? Thank you Lee

Does anyone know if the Slimline V2 thermostats are capable of being seen by Home Assistant to monitor room temperatures. Not sure if I need to upgrade to the Neo stats or not?

Hi Beelbeebub, Well spotted and thank you. I have now informed them that what they left me with and to be honest it's a schoolboy error on their behalf.

I hope these are the three you mentioned. FTC - Main Control Panel - Isolator switch for ASHP? Thanks - report back once done

Also forgot to mention that when it started doing this again 2 days ago, the radiators were luke warm. I only noticed this as I got my towel from the towel radiator and noticed it then! Does this point to something. My controller also constantly shows the play symbol on the hot water, which indicates it permanently trying to heat the water to 48. It's as though it hasn't finished it's attempt to heat to 48. Is there a way to stop it from doing this?

The Bin Man-Thanks for the reply, yes it's had its annual maintenance and last one was 6 months ago. I'll call them today if this doesn't get resolved. PhilT- Can you confirm how to power down. I've seen this video and followed it a couple of times before. The soft reset is done but that isn't having the desired effect. akjos- No I didn't but will do that now and then see what happens Thank you all Lee

Hi all, I have had a dozen L9 errors since my install about 18 months ago. In that time I have a one full service. The L9 error I'm well aware of it being a flow rate issue. Around June of this year I had a random L9 error and just reset the controller and all was well again. July this year it happened again twice so I called out the installers ( they have gone bust but running under a different name ) On that point the guys who worked for this company are still local and were laid off with a days notice but one of them is a mitsibushi tech guy. I have no doubt the installation was carried out fine. My neighbour has the mirror of my new build and he has the identical system to me and installed by the same installers. The now defunct company sent out a nice chap who wasn't proficient in Mitsibushi heat pumps. He checked the filters but was unsure how to resolve and left with an open ticket to do some research. This isn't what I need and will endeavour to push for a mitsibushi heat pump professional. In the mean time I was not able to call for heat after he left and no hot water went to the tank. Every 10 mins or so the L9 error happened. Then I noticed the pressure in the system was around zero ( this I guess is because the engineer they sent over flushed or check the two filters which I guess would have dropped the pressure and he didn't re-pressurise )!! Anyway I've re-pressurised it to 1.6 bar as per mitsibushi's guidance and still it L9 error's Now to the bit that has confused me and why I'm here. I have changed the source of power to immersion in the service setting by altering the setting on the controller from 'standard' to 'heater' This engaged the system and does actually heat up the tank. So all I can say is that there is a lot of stuff up in the loft. I've bypassed the ASHP heating the water up but something up in my loft where all the gear is, is not working correctly. Any thoughts before I call out someone detached from the company who is honouring the warranty install but has since gone bust!!

Just a secondary question with the MEL Cloud App. Both zones (zone 1 and 2) appear to be on indicated by a sun symbol. But all of zone 2 (downstairs UFH) is at room temp so shouldn't be onand isn't according to the FTC6 controller but is according to the Mel Cloud App. Zone 1 is the upstairs rads and it's this stat that is set to heat upstairs at a higher temp but is cutting out on this occasion. The app shows two room temps at 22.5 and the set temp at 20. Can you confirm if they should or can override the rooms stats around the house? Reason I ask this is when looking at the summery settings on the FTC6 , page 2 of that menu has two temperature settings - HRoom1 & HRoom2 These temp settings change when the settings on the app are changed for each zone. So are these independent temp settings from the actual room stats?

It has been used before and appeared to work ok during last winter although it was only installed from December 22 So this is it's second winter.

I believe I do have a buffer tank The buffer being a second tank and is much smaller than the main tank? Is that right. And if yes to buffer then I'm not aware that it is controlled, just the main system.

Hi, I have just tied out for the first time this winter but coming up against a problem. Heatmiser stat is set to 26 and room is 20 Flame appears on the stat The FTC6 controller shows the play symbol and after a short while the ASHP icon appears Check the ASHP outside and it's on. However after about 2 to 3 minutes the ASHP stops. The ASHP symbol disappears on the FTC6, yet the flame on the stat stays on and the play symbol on the FTC6 stays on play. Any thoughts why this might be happening. The stat is next to the RF switch so it's not out of range. Pressure in the system is at 1bar Thanks Lee

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Indeed I agree, but in my case the UFH is on one feed and the upstairs ( radiators) are on a separate feed. I guess as with much of this stuff, it depends on the individual, the type and size of house, how you perceive the cold/warm and type of system you have running. All in all I think I wanted to try and understand was whether getting a separate electronic thermostat attached to towel rail was a good way forward to heat just that one small on-suite room despite the installers telling me to leave it all alone as it will mess around with the COP/SCOP readings. They also advised against setting a timer for my hot water. ( another story )

Hi all and thanks I hear what pro Dave says and yes I understand - my misunderstandings and thought that too, that heat in that towel radiator would get lost once the system pushes ASHP heated water about(upstairs only) JohnMo, thanks - Is there any specific make and model to consider for a 500 x 1600 towel radiator? AliG - Thanks, yes I have 5 stats for 5 rooms with UFH, all downstairs. I have no issue with these and all set to 21 as that's our desired comfort of heat all doors open and we don't touch it. - Perfect I guess. The upstairs as stated is just the one stat. Its battery operated and I took it off the wall and mounted onto a cradle so I could move it about as it was originally at the top of the stairs. This was where most of the downstairs heat came from and caused that upstairs stat to believe the whole upstairs was at that temp which isn't correct. So putting it onto a cradle meant the main two rooms we use upstairs ( Bedroom and onsuite ) we had more temperature control. It lives either in our bedroom or our on-suite. However neither of us like overly warm bedroom hence why were quite happy with the residual heat from the downstairs to fill the upstairs bedroom. It's almost perfect but what it doesn't do well is give us a warm on-suite first thing in the morning or when having a shower. If we put the portable stat just in the on-suite and set that to say 23 or 24 degrees, it will get there eventually but it will mean turning all the other upstairs radiator stats to off, otherwise the whole house overheats. There will be occasions when coldness of winter truly sets in that we might want the upstairs radiators to come on for a while. I can't fault the idea of modern full electric Air Source Heating for water and house but it doesn't have that instant push of heat from Gas or Oil. So I thought I could put an electric element into the towel radiator to give the towel radiator some heat on a timer, it wouldn't impact the rest of the house but I guess that it's not the most efficient way to heat water.

My home and water is heated via a mitsibushi ASHP. Its less than a year old and wanted some advice for the forthcoming winter as we struggled to get the balance right when we moved into our home in January this year. The house also has UF heating downstairs and rads upstairs. It seems the general flow of heat from downstairs keeps upstairs warmish and we found running the stats downstairs at 21 stopped the need for the upstairs rads to come on. However the on suite which is tucked away is off our main bedroom and away from the main flow of heat in our house and has a towel radiator with no thermostatic valve on it. For us to make this room heat up we would need to turn off the radiators upstairs and put the single portable stat in the on suite to make it heat up and ramp that up to say 22 or 23 degrees. So I wondered what anyone's thoughts were putting an electric thermostatic valve on this towel radiator. I can't help but think an electric 300w or 400w TRV could be cheaper to heat up than a single towel radiator using the CH system to pump hot water to just that rad. As I've come to learn ASHP heating systems take an eternity to generate heat but once done in a well insulated home it seems very good. Does this impact the heat of the water in the rest of the CH pipework upstairs? What stops the heated water in the towel radiator seeping into the rest of the water in the system?

PhilT, I was told I shouldn't timer the HW and just let it heat up, then drop in temp, then reheat. However I have solar panels 4.6kW system and I think I would be better getting it to charge on a timer once the sun is up. I guess there is no logical reason for the installers to say you shouldn't set your HW to a timed program?

The installers have now been back and stated it is because the flow rate is so low. This was adjusted at the pump and at the ecodan controller a few months ago due to the noise of the system affecting our sleep. That has now been increased to provide a flow rate of 17l / min So far so good with the 10 degrees drop being maintained but the downside is that we can now hear the system when running. , however it doesn't seem as bad as before but the weather is warmer so not working so hard I guess. Also there seems to be a lot of discussion about tank temperature settings. I'm going to drop tank temperature to 50 and keep the 10 degree drop. Any thoughts on whether a 5 degree drop at this temperature is likely to be more efficient?

Recently my HW recycling starts before the 10 degree drop as set up in the controller setting. HW is set to 55 Degrees Temp drop is set to 10 degrees This never use to happen but recently in the last 3 or so weeks I've noticed it reheats when it's dropped to somewhere between 49 and 51 degrees, indicating that it's ignoring the request to only heat when it drops to 45 degrees. Any idea on why this might be happening all of a sudden?

Hi PhilT No, the app is very limited. The only way I could change any of those settings is using the control panel on the inverter. I've been told the Solis Cloud App is somewhat limited and not the most accurate and that I shouldn't read too much into it. Seems strange that an app is provided to show what's happening but you can't take too much notice of it!!!! Solis need to up their game with app development. So many app developers out there you would think it's quite easy to get one working efficiently.

Thanks for supplying this information. Its good to know that there is this amount of expected heat loss on a modern tank. I might endevour to do the same with lagging every inch of pipe to see if it makes any difference. Has anyone tried wrapping the tank further in a thermal blanket? Is there much point if they did? The noise is as a point where the installer said all adjustments that can be made have been made. The flow rate is now down to 9 litres a minute and its now at the bottom end of the tolerance to accept its efficiency isn't compromised. Seems we will have to live with the noise which is disappointing. Thank you all for your thoughts, knowledge and comments.

Thank you for this. I've been up into the loft and looked at the settings but want to tread carefully with the settings. Under the advanced settings, how do you get to this page setting. I guess it's under a different sub heading. At this stage I don't want to change anything but instead see what its set to. Thanks

Thanks for the solution. I'll have a look when I get home. I know that he set it up to charge battery between 00:30 and 04:30 to take advantage of the cheaper tariff but I thought that condition would only apply to that time. When I have a look will there be an option to only charge battery during the night but set priority during daylight to be Self Use / Battery / Back to Grid? Thank you

Hope you don't mind me jumping in on this thread. My installation has a Solis inverter and Pure Drive battery. The Solis Cloud Monitoring App shows that all PV generated power always goes to the battery both day and night. This indicates that there is no self use energy being generated albeit the solar charging of the battery in effect is doing that but it suggests that the battery is constantly being charged as first priority to provide solar generated energy. Does that make sense? I thought the order of generated solar power was; Self Use, then Battery charging ( when self use needs were met at any given time ), then back to the grid (if self use met and battery was full) I'm unable to get any assistance at this moment in time from the installer. I've attached an image to show the predicament. Thank you