AppleDown

I should've added that in, sorry. Thames Water and South East Water have both stated it's not theirs.

Yes, I thought that sounded a bit too good to be true - but I'd expect a bill to land in the post box. When/how that gets paid is up to the Gods

Hello all. We've well and truly started our excavation and access changes. But today we've unearthed a little surprise. The digger driver I bought in to help discovered an old 75mm water pipe running straight through the middle of the potential foundations. Quick tests seem to suggest it's at mains pressure. It runs from the south end of our plot, coming from a private school. We have yet to see where it goes to. We managed to speak to someone from the school by chance this afternoon, who suggested it was an old hydrant or similar, as the plot we are in was next to a store and glass house/conservatory (part of the old manor the school now occupies). The pipe runs from their manor to us - and they were confident they could find a valve or stop-cock. We're meeting with them tomorrow to discuss more. Where I need some assistance is in who will have to foot the bill. We're happy to excavate a hole on the boundary line, and they have suggested they will cut and cap. The deeds we have from where the property was divided from their land date back to 1974, and has nothing on the hand drawn map regarding this line. There is a private water main, which is still used and marked, but that's nowhere near this one. Any advice on how to approach this? Yes obviously we're making the fuss and need to get rid of it. But it's their water line. I would assume it's probably us that may have to cough up, but just want to be sure. Thanks!

I think that’s what we’re thinking. Might use some of the brick/mortar supports from the old chalet stacked up when we place it down too. Will report back!

So after three years of planning shenanigans, plenty of back and forth over designs and a house sale that is (hopefully) completing soon, we're finally doing something meaningful on the plot. Last week saw us mark the foundation outlines, set up a few levels and work out a plan of action for clearing the site. First up is removing the leftover brick supports and plastic sheeting from an old summer house/chalet, then on to the the overgrown brambles and finally clearing a tonne of dead wood from years of blown down trees that were cut up and left in place. But the biggest and most precarious job will come when we try to move the tree house my late grandfather built back in 1992. It's stood the test of time, providing many adventures for both myself and my brother, and now our two young boys. The fact that three tress around it that were felled in numerous storms over the past 30-years managed to just miss it is a bloody miracle. So it deserves all the care and attention to move it to a new safe spot, and receive some much needed replacement legs, boards and felt. No idea how we're going to do that though... Next week we hopefully start the dig out, ready for the piles - but the rest of this week will be clearing, laying some hardcore and marking out some of the drainage/utility runs. More to come!

We're going electric in the first floor ensuite. Easier to control - especially when the other half wants warm floor to wake up to!

It's not cheap - the best product and buildup for the floor from Topcret is about £160m2 including install.

We visited a friend who microcement last year and we fell in love with it - so much so that we want a good 65m2 of it downstairs on the build. We've gone to a few different providers and each one uses a slightly different buildup. The two we've had the best experience with so far - and the ones with a more 'technical' approach - have been Forcrete and Topcret. There were a couple of local installers who quoted, but they simply just use a primer and then a couple of layers of product and a sealer. The two mentioned have a much more substantial process of building up the layers, adding strength etc. Yes it's all theory at the moment until we get it down - but from the time it takes to actually apply, the number of layers and the specific build up, I'm happy spending the extra £s on it vs tiles. We have also done our own 'scientific' stain testing with a few sample sheets on cement board. Went wild with the usual coffee, raspberries, spirulina and ketchup - baked in the sun and didn't leave a mark.

It’s about 160sqm - I’ll drop you a PM with the ones that have been best for us so far.

We’re in the exact same situation as you. Tree roots and clay. We could potentially have a raft, but we’d need to dig down a fair bit to the ‘good’ gravelly clay, but it’s a hassle with muck away and MOT type 3. I’ve probably got quotes from 8 pile providers and the range of costs has been staggering. From £28k for the piles and ring beam, all the way up to £65k. I’m leaning towards piles, ring beam and insulated beam and block. But I’ve got a guy who does piles and a tied in raft popping over tomorrow for a chat. We’ll see what he says. Bit more expensive but I like the simplicity and shallow dig. All the ones I’ve progressed with have SEs in house, so they include the cost. They’ll give you a rough idea on what’s needed based on a soil report and indicative plans. You’ll need loadings for a final design and price though.

That doesn't sound right at all - why is it double for them to install? Install with my alu-clad windows are about £7k (without the airtightness gubbins as I'll do that myself). Total price around £40k for supply and install.

I emailed them twice about our project. Never heard anything back. So 🤷

Lovely - thanks for the info. This might need a whole other thread, but how did you go about setting up drains for the showers/wet room?

I think that's my preference. My next questions is: would the structural concrete topping be OK to lay the actual floor on then? Do I still need some leveling screed on top? It'll be C30 with some fibres in. Buildup of the floor as provided by Litecast is below (it's a timber frame, so ignore the wall detail). That's 255mm from bottom beam edge, so adding another 50mm of PIR total will be 355mm (without any further leveling screed).

Hello everyone! Due to ground make up, soil investigations, tree roots and cost, we've decided on an insulated block and beam foundation sitting on a concrete ring beam with piles. Litecast (specifically the GT variant) seems to be the best bang for buck, achieving 0.15 W/m²K. The EPS needs a structural concrete topping of 75mm. My question is should we look to run the wet UFH through this, or add another screed topping and have the pipes in that instead? We'll need some self leveling screed anyway to ensure a flat surface, but is there much difference in placing them in that first level?