health mechanic

The brickies have built up the inner leaf of thermal blocks slightly inwards to meet the inner leaf of the old bricks which were 115. This means the wall plate sits on the corner end of the new extension inner leaf on full thermal bricks but where it joins the old house sits only on 50% of thermal blocks, with other half hovering over cavity. My worry is that the weight of the roof joists may cause cantelevering into cavity. There are dwarf walls about 80cm in from the eaves. But not sure sufficient to   

Not a windup at all, as my loft space is being fully boarded and is over 80m2(after storage for cylinders, boilers etc.), I wanted something that made it easier to use . Before extension my old loft ladder was cumbersome and I was only one going up. Trying to make it easier to go up, as likely using more as have lost my garage space. Lots of Italian companies that I have seen that seem to break after couple of years. But lately tempted by the skylark uk based, but ? Worth benefit

Anyone installed one of these they have found reliable. Prices vary from 2k - 10k.

Yes engineer happy...but couldn't get over the noggins being loose. I thought screws were not as good as nails here due to lack of lateral strength?

I have a 3m x 0.45m flat roof skylight on ground floor within a small width flat roof ~ 80cm ( 2nd floor setback behind parapet above). Engineer has specified doubling joist on width and longitudinal run, builder on widths has tripled for further strength (as per photo) But I can't reassure myself whether on such a large run the triple joist will take weight without significant deflection. There are 7 ~ 16cm lengths of cut joists/noggins in-between as per photo, one side sit into steel and the other resting on inner leaf of brick work. These are simply nailed in. Are these too short a section to provide further structural integrity when loaded or are purely to dress the roof.

22 mil at 400 joist spacing. Is it overkill to do so....it seem the likes of Rob clevitt etc. And other builder youtubers seem to insist, can see the sense with reducing flex in this area. Additional joins have not been staggered, but several runs where joins are in line.

Are noggins needed where chipboard meets another chipboard on subfloor. Please see photo. I was thinking if close to a noggin probably not but if sat near middle should put one. If so, would there be issue fitting now, as if apply souda bond (as used) and nailed from below is risk of lifting in that weak point? 

Thank you both for the advice

So is this a vent to outside that ventsair to the circumference of the vent and you clad on the vent face

Thanks, can I ask where you got those from. And did you use an inline fan. My issue is that I will have to go for a rigid duct going from the toilet,through section of utility to outside I think as steel between roof of toilet and utility

Anyone any idea how to make an external vent possible and not out of place in a wooden clad house. Have a downstairs toilet and utility room and I need to extract from, but outside front of house will have wood cladding to bottom of downstairs window cill. Only option I can see is to take up stud and through roof, any other option.

Yes certainly will be looking on already answered areas. My dilemma is how far to go towards passivehaus spending seeing that 80% of house is new, but 2 walls are old and extension built with bricks and mortar

That's a shame....I'm planning to put overboard system on half the house where extension new floor block and beam meets old floor suspended timber, and the areas with just block and beam a screed system. Been told by most UFH that that was most viable option to regulate temperature in rooms with mixture of flooring.

Why is overlay system the worst type, as surely the best type for suspended timber flooring system if insulated between joists

Hello all Just saying hi, am about 1/3rd of way through the start of my 2 storey wrap around extension. Will be looking for advise over the next few months from forum members.